Intrepid :: Oil Light Blinking - Level Is Fine
Feb 20, 2010
Oil level is fine. Doesn't appear to be sludgy. I want to check the pressure but when I looked under the motor to find the sending unit I could see one that had a white wire running from it. I need clarification on where and which place to hook up to. If the pressure is fine what indicates a good pressure? Should I replace the sending unit? oil pressure switch? oil pump? The book I bought didn't have but one picture, black and white wasn't that useful.
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So I was waiting in line at a drive through, because Fast Food is the breakfast of champions. And suddenly my Oil Light started blinking. It beeped, then blinked. It didn't stay on solid.
So I figured I was suddenly low on oil. I then noticed my engine temp was pegged to the max. So I abandoned my Egg McMuffin (Not an easy choice by the way) and I pulled out of line into a parking spot and shut down my engine.
I gave it a few moments to cool down and checked the oil level. In the past my oil light has come on if I was low on oil and a 1/2 quart or so was all I needed. But after 20 minutes of cooling down, I checked the oil level and it was fine. Not even close to low.
I made some calls, talked to some people, ate a McMuffin and checked the level again. It was still good. So I restarted the car now that it was totally cooled down. It warmed up fine, right to normal temp, no overheating, no oil light and all seemed well. So I drove it home (About 12 miles) without issue.
Also, Prior to this issue (within a couple months) I switched to Synthetic Blend. And it may just be a coincidence, but my AC also failed about 3 days ago.
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I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
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The AC on our '04 RX330 has started acting up. Refrigerant level is fine. When the system works it's ice cold. It'll run more often than not, but occasionally the AC compressor just won't kick on. I searched the forum and found issues in other toyotas and lexus models with the magnetic clutch relay but for the life of me I can't find where that is on the RX. I also saw reference to an AC "servo" in another thread. What controls the AC compressor and what to check?
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Yesterday while i was driving home out of the blue, I was in the city making a stop and suddenly everything in my odometer start blinking including gas level (gas was halfway), also big red triangle turns on and some other lights that I couldn't see cuz the car stop accelerate so i just make to pull over and set the Parking then I turn off the car to try turn it on again and see if everything clear out but didn't turn on anymore couldn't even get it in neutral to move it...
I press START button ones and screen turns on and even able to get into info system to check that my aux12v battery was ok. BUT when press the START button twice with or without stop pedal all energy shut off, screen dies and odometer just try to blink quickly before die not even able to see if any other light turns on like the engine one or big triangle.
AND WORSE part is that i can pull anything out of my Scanner because it needs to be in 2 STARTBUTTON pressed mode in order for my scanner to connect with my Prius.
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2.7 engine..oil light comes on at idle..Had oil pressure checked and it checked good, never below 27. Found out that a service bulletin had been issued concerning this problem and that supposedly the dealer had "the fix" for $21. I bought the oil pressure switch "vent" ($21) and had it installed.. Also had new oil pressure switch installed... Still doing the same thing.. So now what? Must be driven about 10 miles before it will come on when you stop.. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes then it has to warm up again before it comes on at idle. Only comes on at idle.. I also changed oil and made sure to use a filter with the internal check valve to keep the oil from draining back. A person or two has recommended thicker oil but I am afraid to do that since I am told that the 2.7 has very small oil return holes..
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
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I have a 2000 Intrepid. I start the car and turn on the cruisecontrol. The light comes on for 10 seconds then turns off. I have to turn the car off and on to get the light to come on again. But it still goes out after exactly 10 seconds. If I push the brake pedal before the light goes out then it stays on until I release the brake. I am never able to set the speed even when the light is on. I assume some check is going on during those 10 seconds and something is failing and that's why the light goes off. What part of the cruise control system is failing and how do I test for this failure.
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My wifes 1998 Intrepids' Check Engine Light came on yesterday, and while she was turning into the driveway the car stalled. It would fire right up again, and drive normally, but when she went to pull into the driveway again it stalled.
I took it into the shop, and they read the computer and thats when the P0731 code showed up.
P0731 Incorrect gear ratio # 1
When I went to bring it home, I then noticed that the speedometer was not working, and the tranny wasn't shifting out of 1st gear. The tranny fluid is clean and not burnt.
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Weird prob with this car. It starts ok but usually (90-95% of time) runs rough when I reduce pressure on the accelerator. During this time, the cruise control will not work; the cruise light doesn't even come on. However, about 5-10% of the time the car runs fine and the cruise control works. Not sure how these two are related.
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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I noticed yesterday while driving the RX (not my daily driver) that when I turned on the A/C to bi-level (chest & feet) it only blew cold air at the chest level while at the feet level it was warm air. If I remember correctly from the past that the feet got cold too so I tried it with the vents only at the feet, still warm air. I even checked to make sure that I didn't have it on bi-level with defroster in use.
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I have a Sonata v6 3.3 2007 Its passenger Air Bag light is on, how much its gonna cost me to fix it ?? and sometimes when i stop at the signal light the oil light starts blinking, why is that, and as soon as I start driving it goes away.
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I connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
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I have a 2005 Prius with 84k miles on it, I recently purchased it used w/ 82k miles.
While driving, about 15 miles into my drive the check engine light starts blinking with acceleration (I counted as many as 18 blinks in one time). The traction control light also came on a few times. With acceleration, the car shook. I was close to an advanced auto parts, so I went there hoping they could work. They were unable to have the connector sync with the car.
I ended up calling my girlfriend and asking her to look on this site for problems as I described. She found and read me info such as water leaking into the spark plugs (it did just rain allot yesterday) and bad gas. To my surprise, there was really no clear answer.
I called and got it towed to the Toyota dealer. The dealership just called and said they did a quick scan, and it "appears not to be from bad gas" but more testing will be done tomorrow. Would it be worth it to drive up and try some fuel water remover tonight? I also read on changing the spark plugs isn't too hard?
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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The airbag light in my 06 sonata has been on for the past couple days. And today I noticed when I was driving the car by myself the passenger seatbelt light was blinking and the passenger airbag light off bag wasn't lit? Even though there was no one in the passenger seat? I'm just wondering if there was ever a recall and if I should take it to the dealership.
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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The problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
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This has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
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It's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
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