Intrepid :: Drive Train Vibrating / Resonating Strongly When Engine RPMs Reach About 1800 - 2000
Sep 30, 2013
I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
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Might be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
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-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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What could cause the entire drivetrain to shack upon starting of the car? every time i turn the key and the engine starts to spin its like something underneath is shaking the whole car. i was thinking maybe motor or trans mounts but, i am not sure. 2005 accent gls hatchback.
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I have a rattle coming from the muffler when I reach 2000-3000 rpms. I thought it may be the heat shied, so I got underneath the car and it was nice a snug. Had my wife get in the driver seat and rev the engine. It seems as though all sound came from the outlet of the muffler. Do I have an internal failure in the muffler? Over the past month it has become louder.
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I have a 2004 GMC Envoy w/130K+ miles that just went in for maintenance. One of the things my mechanic was fixing for me was a rough idle, vibrating strongly enough to rattle the mirrors and glass. He replaced a very loose and failing water pump, and I will say that the idling is better, but it's still a little rough. The one problem was hiding another. Once I accelerate, no problems; nothing in park or neutral, only idling in drive. No CEL, no codes from the computer. My mechanic thought engine mounts might need replacement.
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Not sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
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I installed a CAI (CTS Motorsports) and I'm hearing some sort of resonating humming while driving. I also installed a 3'' turbo back exhaust (SPM) and did APR stage 2 tuning. I did not do everything at once, the CAI was installed 3 weeks prior to any other install on my car. I've been hearing that annoying hum ever since I installed the CAI. The humming doesn't happen when drive normally, shift and slowly increase the throttle, but when I stomp on the gas I hear it every gear shift around 3000 to 5000 rpm. When I mash on the gas and shift, it hums only for a short period of time until i shift again. I don't think its a high speed hum issue. I can easily do 120 and not hear a thing, but when i rev at high rpm's I hear that resonating hum.
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I own a 2007 Prius Touring w/120kish miles. We are currently experiencing a huge booming resonance at idle and low RPMs. The noise isn't subtle, almost sounds like we're in a Huey with the doors open. Here's what I believe I know:
- No DTC's are being thrown
- ICE seems as smooth as ever
- No apparent changes in fuel economy
- Plugs were replaced 40k ago and coil ignitors are original--not running rough or missing though
- Visual inspection of exhaust shows no leaks or contact with body
- Motor mounts pass the test I looked up [in drive/reverse, depress brake, watch unusual engine displacement]
- Noise is not vehicle speed related, only engine speed coupled--probably between 1K and 1.8k rpm
I'm sure I'm leaving something out but aside from messing with the coils or plugs I've looked at everything I can think of. I haven;t gone to the dealer yet. Lot's of reading searching have only revealed CV issues.
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2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
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t's a '00 extended cab swb 4.6L with 4r70w trans. I have a Hotchkis TVS 2/4 kit on it. It's been lowered 3 years now and I've never had any real issue. But I started noticing a small vibration through the floor so I took my driveshaft out to be balanced and new U joints installed. Ever since then I've had an audible "hum" from the rear whenever I go over 75mph. It only does this under load (hill, etc) and I don't hear anything until then. The driveline shop told me it was my pinion angle and I've tried shims with only slight improvement. I'll replace the driveshaft after I do a motor and trans swap down the line, but it's out of the budget for now.
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When I drive my car, is fine for the first twenty minutes. After which time, the car drives like the E brake is on. Further, when I'm in city streets, the rpms go really high just to hit 25 mph. When I take my foot off the gas, the car gradually slows to the point where the car stops while in drive. Even if i press the gas, I have to press hard before the car moves. And when it does move, is like the E brake is on because it acts like it doesn't want to move. While traveling, is hard to reach 40 mph without the engine feeling heavily over worked.
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I found a low mileage 2000 intrepid with the 2.7 liter engine from a car that was in a wreck. I would like to put this in my 2003 intrepid with a dead 2.7. Someone said that 99-01 engines can be interchanged easily but I have a 2000. The first thing I noticed is that the engine harnesses are different between the cars, so I was wondering if I change the out the harness with my 2003 harness, next I trashed my flex plate so can I use flex plate and torque converter from the 2000. Would the engine still work?
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Kind of stuck on a slight noise from the drive train on our 2007 Avy. It is not engine noise at a certain RPM it is from rolling at speed. I first rotated the tires and there was no difference at all. I thought it sounded like a CV going out so I replaced the left shaft. No luck. I could still hear it as it increases from nothing being stopped to being able to be felt slightly in the steering wheel either traveling straight or turning the worst between 60 and 65 MPH.
I replaced the right CV shaft and noticed slight wear in the support bearing and the support bearing bracket pinch bolt's rubber pad was worn in half. Ok, new CV shaft, new pinch bolt, tightened to specs, no luck. Ok, onto wheel bearings. I could still feel it in the steering wheel and it "sounded" like it was coming from the left side. I even rode as a passenger and moved about trying to get a better idea where it was coming from. I was convinced it was on the left so I pressed out the old bearing and installed new. No luck, same sound at the same speeds.
I replace the right wheel bearing (replacing a front wheel bearing on this car is not a fun job). Slightly better but still there. It's a subtle noise now but at the same speeds. I guess it could be a rear wheel bearing assembly but maybe I am missing something obvious.
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I have close to 60k on my V-8 and it has been virtually trouble free. The last few days I have heard what seems to be a whining or whistling coming from the drive train at the top of 3rd, then 4th,5th and 6th. Kind of sounds like metal to metal, but is a very quiet whistle.
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Lately I have noticed a sound when turning left but not right. It sounds sort of like when you go across a steel deck bridge, it's wheel speed related, not engine speed. Could it be an axle? I have 148,000+ miles on it. any diagnose/fix? As soon as it gets above freakin cold here.
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My X has had a vibration in the drive train since I bought it. I have been through 3 sets of tires and a new rear end with no significant change.
I recently replaced the u-joints, and the vibration changed. Instead of being pronounced upon deceleration, the vibration was somewhat lessened, and only occurred around 55 mph when the truck was neither accelerating or decelerating; when the throttle and speed were at an equilibrium. It was reduced further when I reduced the air pressure in the tires. It is reduced, but is still there.
I would like to get this fixed before my spring break trip.
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Before I take my dads truck to the mechanic. He noticed a "noise" when running highway speeds, which does not occur often for his truck..a beautiful 2005 Eddie Bauer Explorer with the 5.0 V8. I need this checked as I drag a boat to the Fl Keys from NJ in 3 weeks and the truck needs to be 100%. He just replaced the tires as his mechanic told him it was tire whine, which you hear and dont feel. The wheel bearings have been replaced in the last 2 years and they just did ball joints. I drove it up the highway tonight and felt it right at 62 mph..go faster it got more pronounced and you could feel it in the drivers seat...not vibration on the steering wheel..above 85 and it kind of smoothed out, drop below 62 and it goes away..makes no difference if you are in the gas or not..feels like something spinning out of balance....I ran it for 30 minutes at 75 and then pulled into a Lowes parking lot and drove one set of tires up onto a curb so I could fit under the truck..I started at the back and touched everything in the drivetrain for see if anything was hot..the rear differential was warm, the ujoints were not, the transfer case was warm as was the front differential, but none of the u joints or cv joints were warm... 2005 Explorer 100,000k miles...
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Recently read some suggestion gliding using N, will constantly switching between N and D affect any component wear and tear?
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I notice when I put the car in Power Mode and take off from a standing start, I get a distinctive bumping sensation in the drive train. It almost feels like the flywheel dampener is bottoming. This happens when, less than a moderate throttle input.
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