Intrepid :: Cruise Control System - Light Comes On For 10 Seconds Then Turns Off
Jan 8, 2012
I have a 2000 Intrepid. I start the car and turn on the cruisecontrol. The light comes on for 10 seconds then turns off. I have to turn the car off and on to get the light to come on again. But it still goes out after exactly 10 seconds. If I push the brake pedal before the light goes out then it stays on until I release the brake. I am never able to set the speed even when the light is on. I assume some check is going on during those 10 seconds and something is failing and that's why the light goes off. What part of the cruise control system is failing and how do I test for this failure.
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Weird prob with this car. It starts ok but usually (90-95% of time) runs rough when I reduce pressure on the accelerator. During this time, the cruise control will not work; the cruise light doesn't even come on. However, about 5-10% of the time the car runs fine and the cruise control works. Not sure how these two are related.
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Cruise control stop working? mine hasn't been working for a while, and finally decided to ask. The light turns on in my cluster, but doesn't set when i try to set it.
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Question regarding a 2002 Dodge Dakota, 2wheel drive ext cab 100,000 miles 6 cylinder engine. Cruise control stopped working, get the indicator light on dash, but no cruise.
Would I start with the Clock Spring? Will Durango parts interchange? ABS Light, was told the problem is the main unit that mounts on the driver side fender. Have tried replacing with other units from the local scrap yard, but still get warning lights/sounds.
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my 02 VW Cabrio has the nasty habit of the cruise control disconnecting at random. A tech supposedly diagnosed a faulty Cruise Control Module. Now the diagnostic is the vacuum pump. He did a throttle body alignment, the steering column switches check out, brake light circuit checks out, vacuum hoses all good, electrical connectors all tight and sealed with goop... so what could the problem be? It seems to work when cold and at lower speeds, but after warming up and doing freeway speeds, it's dead in the water and won't reset...
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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Here is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
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The ABS light on my Chevy Prizm 98 comes on when I start the car and then turns off in a few seconds. The last few days the light does not go off the entire time the car is running. The light does not flash it just stays on. It's never done this before. Does this mean I have an issue with my brakes? I replaced the front brakes last year but I'm fearing/dreading rear brake replacement. I have no signs that they need to be replaced but am wondering if the ABS light is telling me I'm reaching the rear brake replacement day.
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I recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
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I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
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My carmy had run for 82000 miles now, and never had a problem til now. When I start the car, the "check engine light" turns on. When I go driving, after 2 seconds the car slip warning light turns on.
Both warning lights keep on blinking all the time. Here's a photo of the warning lights: [URL] .... I mean the photo at the row in the middle, with the car sign on it.
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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This has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
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2007 RX 350 my cruise control light will not come and cruise not working. I use cruise control frequently and know how to turn on& off, set, etc. It is definitely not working. Also, "AFS off"light on RPM gauge. Is this a fuse issue? If so, which fuse? Pulled engine fuse box and AMP did not matchup with what manual said.
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I'm occasionally having a scary issue with my '13 RC450h. There are a couple of parking lots where the transition from the parking lot to the road is not particularly smooth and the speed of the other cars on the road require that you get up to 50mph pretty quickly.
When I hit the gas then hit the bumps in the transition, the TRAC light turns on and power to the wheels is lost for a couple of seconds (exactly the opposite of what I want to happen). Is this happening to other people or is this something that needs to be looked at? Is this just a result of traction control and I need to remember to turn it off when leaving a parking lot and entering a busy road?
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My 2010 GTI with 18.6k miles has been doing great until now. After a brief stop on hwy. coming back from Florida the airbag light stayed on and the cruise control stopped working. Its at dealer's now and I got a rental from VW. Guy in shop did not seem to have a clue. He talked about a module or wiring. He asked me if car had been in a wreck - no.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback with 179,000 miles on it. My engine and cruise control lights flash on and off....have been doing this for 6 months now....intermittently. My mechanic said the he cleared the computer and to wait and see if it happens again. He said that it might be the catalytic converter. The car runs fine whether or not the lights are flashing.
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I have 2006 Honda civic my SRS indicator light came on and stayed on about a week and a half ago, Today while driving the car i turned the steering wheel and the horn went on by itself and even stayed on for a minute. Later the volume on the radio went off when i turned the steering wheel and then the cruise control light came on and stayed on, i can't' turn it off. The horn no longer works.
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Had an odd event this morning on my drive into work. Put the cruise control on at about 75 mph, after several mins came up to traffic and as I pressed the brake the car began to speed up and the engine revved up, I had to press the cancel button on the cruise control to disengage it. Immediately after disengaging it, the ESC came on solid. Once at work, I re-started the car without issue and the ESC light went off. Didn't try the cruise control again on the drive in.
2011 Sonata Limited with approx. 55K. Bought new in Feb in 2010. I have had the brake stop recall performed several years ago.
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So i had a long drive yesterday and i decided to use Cruise Control. I rarely use it, but I have tried it in the past and it worked. So yesterday it didn't work. The light never came on in the dash and it never actually worked. I plan on mentioning it to the dealer when i bring it in next time but i was wondering if there was something i could check for myself. Such as a fuse?
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