Intrepid :: 2003 To 2000 Engine Change?
Apr 24, 2011
I found a low mileage 2000 intrepid with the 2.7 liter engine from a car that was in a wreck. I would like to put this in my 2003 intrepid with a dead 2.7. Someone said that 99-01 engines can be interchanged easily but I have a 2000. The first thing I noticed is that the engine harnesses are different between the cars, so I was wondering if I change the out the harness with my 2003 harness, next I trashed my flex plate so can I use flex plate and torque converter from the 2000. Would the engine still work?
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I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
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I've got a 95 Intrepid that wont seem to change gears when I have the accelerator all the way down (from standing and passing gear). Other than that it seems ok. I want to add some Lucas. I am worried about overfilling...Lucas says a moderate overfill is ok, but I am still apprehensive.
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I was trying to look up how to change the battery in a 1999 dodge intrepid. When I looked on line I got different ways to change it. One was removing the front tire and remove it from below. The other is to remove air cleaner and other items and remove from the top. Which way is it?
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My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L with 170,xxx miles.... My check engine light came on and is showing the codes P0562, P1776, P0871, P0441, P0700, and P0440. While driving, the car jerks and then i only have 2nd gear. If i shut the car off and turn it back on everything runs normal again for a little while. i had my battery and alternator checked and both tested good. What could be causing these codes and why only 2nd gear (Limp Mode)?
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2.7 engine..oil light comes on at idle..Had oil pressure checked and it checked good, never below 27. Found out that a service bulletin had been issued concerning this problem and that supposedly the dealer had "the fix" for $21. I bought the oil pressure switch "vent" ($21) and had it installed.. Also had new oil pressure switch installed... Still doing the same thing.. So now what? Must be driven about 10 miles before it will come on when you stop.. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes then it has to warm up again before it comes on at idle. Only comes on at idle.. I also changed oil and made sure to use a filter with the internal check valve to keep the oil from draining back. A person or two has recommended thicker oil but I am afraid to do that since I am told that the 2.7 has very small oil return holes..
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My mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
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I have a 2000 Sienna van. My husband took it a shop for an oil change and now, the next day, there's an oil smell in the engine and it seems to be running hot. Here's the catch: it has a different engine from when I took it in last year to the same shop and they did an oil change and then the engine started smelling of oil, it ran hot, and after a few months the engine died (they told me checking the oil smell could wait and we were broke). I had to have the engine replaced. I would never have taken the van back to that shop! But now it's been there and I'm panicked! What should I do?
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with 92000 miles. Several times a day I get a vibration or shaking coming from the right side front tire. It comes and goes. It only happens between say 30 and 50 miles an hour. It stops whenever you hit the gas or turn the wheel to the right. Seems to start mostly after hitting a bump or rough road.
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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i need to know what locations are these sensors at bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 what i`m asking is it at the front of the engine or the rear its a 2.7 liter engine.
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Sometimes, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't start up when I turn it off. For example, let's say on my way home I stop off in a supermarket to pick up some stuff. I'll come back out 20 minutes or so later, only to find out my car isn't starting. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank, shake and then immediately die on me [I'm under the impression the engine isn't even starting at this point because tapping the gas does nothing]. Again, this is a problem that is only happening sometimes. I can do the same routine tomorrow and it'll start up flawlessly.
1) This is only an intermittent problem. The problem doesn't seem to be occurring more frequently, but when it does happen, the engine is harder to start. For example, the first time this happened to me, I got it started after one or two tries. After my latest episode, it took me 11 tries to get it running!
2) After the engine does finally start, the engine will run really rough and shake a lot until I tap the gas a few times (which is leading me to believe this is some sort of fuel related problem [sometimes, the engine will start on one try, but will run rough until I tap the gas a few times]).
3) When the car is cold, it starts up flawlessly every time without fail.
4) The car runs mint! No hesitation or otherwise stalling, etc.
What I've done so far to try to remedy the problem:
1) Changed spark plugs
2) Fuel line cleaning/flush
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My 97 Concorde 3.5 w/ 223k developed a second coolant leak from the front of the engine. Using a pressure tester I found it was leaking from the water pump housing o-ring (pass side) and also the o-ring behind the water pump itself. I did this exact repair 3 years ago including new pump! I do everything meticulously so this has me a bit frustrated. I've got it all torn down and cleaned up real nice, except there seems to be a lot of pitting in the o-ring grooves on the back of the water pump housing, mainly the large one.Can I use high temp RTV oil-resistant sealant in the grooves and then put the new O-rings in to make sure they don't leak from the pitting?
Also, I found the cam thrust plates to have hard, cracked seals.
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I have been to several mechanics, no one can find anything wrong with it. This 1999 dodge intrepid only has 75,000 miles on it. While driving the engine turns off and will not turn back on for 30 minutes to hours. it does not happen all the time. The mechanic said there is nothing wrong with the car, and as soon as i went to pick it up driving it back home it turned off again?
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How long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
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My wifes 1998 Intrepids' Check Engine Light came on yesterday, and while she was turning into the driveway the car stalled. It would fire right up again, and drive normally, but when she went to pull into the driveway again it stalled.
I took it into the shop, and they read the computer and thats when the P0731 code showed up.
P0731 Incorrect gear ratio # 1
When I went to bring it home, I then noticed that the speedometer was not working, and the tranny wasn't shifting out of 1st gear. The tranny fluid is clean and not burnt.
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Our intrepid 3.5L with 135000 miles has been acting up a bit. Its had a couple hard shifts over the last few days/week that almost seemed like an engine hesitation, and this morning when slowing down from highway speed into a small town, it abruptly shifted down to 2nd and stayed there like its in "limp mode" ??.
Pulled over and checked fluid. Level looked good and smelled ok but has a brown tinge to the pink fluid.
Started to go again and it still wouldn't shift. Pulled over and shut car off. Checked codes P700 and P138.
Started car up and it shifted fine for the next 28 miles. Shut car off and parked it.
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