I'm turning it over and it just clicks 1 time every time I turn it over it just clicks 1 time, so I changed the alternator, starter/solenoid and battery and it still just clicks that 1 time. 2002 intrepid 3.5 .....
View 1 RepliesI have been to several mechanics, no one can find anything wrong with it. This 1999 dodge intrepid only has 75,000 miles on it. While driving the engine turns off and will not turn back on for 30 minutes to hours. it does not happen all the time. The mechanic said there is nothing wrong with the car, and as soon as i went to pick it up driving it back home it turned off again?
View 3 RepliesJust got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
View 3 RepliesIt takes a LONG time for my heater to warm up... to be expected of an old car. However, once my heater is warmed up enough, it blows cold air when I'm idling at a light or anything. Once I get back up to 35 MPH it goes right back up to its temperature. Then drops again when I stop.
View 3 RepliesAfter 4.5 years of service my car battery seems to have died. On turning the key the starter clicks but it does not start. I jump started it yesterday. It worked fine. It won't start today again so I checked the battery hygrometer. It is green. I checked the water level. It is full.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1988 Toyota (4 cylinder) Pickup truck, with a very intermittent starting problem, that is driving me crazy. It has had the starting problem for over a year now. Normally is starts easily, within one second with the starter motor, no gas needed, and it starts smoothly.
When it has the problem, I turn key, and I only hear a click, and the dash lights are lit, but no starter motor sound.
Early on I would call for a tow truck, but it usually started when they arrived.
I got angry one time and turned the on and off rapidly, nothing. Meditated for about 10min to calm down. Nope, still angry, so turned the key rapidly again, and the starter motor engaged, but the engine didn't start.
So I did that again and gave it some gas, then a lot of gas. The engine was running very rough, like all cylinders were not firing, then it spews out a huge cloud of blue smoke, and the engine evens out. That's my usual pattern now: turn the key like crazy wait a few minutes or even an hour, and keep trying.
It is usually fine for 2 to 7 days with no problems. But a couple of times it has had the problem twice in the same day. The problem seems to happen most when the engine is cold, or after a short trip. A few times, it has had the problem even after a long trip, when the engine was still hot.
What has been replaced in the last year? In this order: starter motor, battery, hot lead to fuse box, battery terminal clamps and wires, fuel pump, mass air flow (don't know what that is), catalytic converter, and master relay. (OK the master relay probably isn't related because rain water leaked in and dripped on the fuse box in the cab.) (Also it has 133,080 miles, and a rebuilt engine put in 4 years ago.)
After the mass air flow and catalytic converter change, the truck has started with no problems for 3 months. Now the problem is back! Same symptoms.
When they last worked on the truck they did a tune-up and they said the starting problem could have been caused by the starter motor not being lined up properly so it would "jam". That would explain why the starter motor wouldn't go, but it doesn't explain the miss-firing when it does finally start going.
I also notice that after they do some work on the truck, it starts fine for about 2 weeks with no problem. So maybe something is getting wiggled into a happy position when they work on it?
If this is an "electrical" problem, what can be done to find this very intermittent problem? Also, just before the the problem started happening again, I noticed there would sometimes be about a 1/2 sec to 1 sec delay from when I turned the key, to when the starter motor would go.
Attached is an audio file of what it sounds like.
1) starting normal,
2) turning key and only clicks,
3) the rough start after many tries.
I have a 2004 F150 SCrew 4x4 with the 4.6 (260K)... My steering wheel occasionally 'clicks' when turning - It sounds and feels like a bearing is bad in the steering column.
When it happens, it feels like one in the bearing is binding- the steering wheel slightly binds, then there's a 'pop' like the ball snapped back into place. This only happens occasionally. Sometimes it will pop with every revolution of the steering wheel, other times not at all.
Originally, I thought it was a U-joint, but it seems like the noise is coming from the bottom of the column...
I have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
View 1 Replies2003 Santa Fe 2.7L
When I turn off the A/C my Temperature Control unit clicks rapidly with the A/C indicator lights turning on and off. It's almost like something was turning it rapidly between on and off. Maybe a short in the controls somewhere. I may try and take it apart and see if I can find an intermittent connection in the switch or a short or loose connection or bad wiring somewhere in the unit.
The other option is just to replace the whole A/C Heater Temp Ctrl. unit.
How long you have to drive a car after you reset computer before all the systems will respond? I have an '02 RT with a 3.5L. I had to reset to clear a check engine light on Tuesday and when I went to get an emissions test on Friday it failed because it could not get a reading from the evap or cat sensors. He said I would have to drive it a while for those to have readings but how long.
View 1 RepliesI am looking to verify that replacing the Transmission Range Sensor on my 2002 SE is the correct action for me to take. My symptoms include:
1) Fuse 17 keeps blowing intermittently but frequently. It has never blown in a middle of a trip. Have not determined if it is blown at end of trip or right at start of next trip.
2) All gears are highlighted (have boxes lit up on all gears) when I am in park or neutral. The correct gear is highlighted when in any of the drive gears including reverse. This symptom is constant and has been for a few months now.
I'm having an issue w/ a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. Randomly, while driving along, the RPMs revv, out of control...wind-out...for no apparent reason. The only fix, is to pull over, put vehicle in park, turn off engine, then restart engine, and put into gear and drive...thing is, this happens, often....a LOT..and is very much a nuisance...It seems there are no common triggers for this issue, except its driving me crazy..
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid that generally runs fine but, on occasion when I turn the the car off and then try to re-start it nothing happens. It has gotten so that I am afraid to drive it, so I am forced to leave the engine running while I run my errands. Other than this one problem the car runs fine.
View 3 RepliesOur intrepid 3.5L with 135000 miles has been acting up a bit. Its had a couple hard shifts over the last few days/week that almost seemed like an engine hesitation, and this morning when slowing down from highway speed into a small town, it abruptly shifted down to 2nd and stayed there like its in "limp mode" ??.
Pulled over and checked fluid. Level looked good and smelled ok but has a brown tinge to the pink fluid.
Started to go again and it still wouldn't shift. Pulled over and shut car off. Checked codes P700 and P138.
Started car up and it shifted fine for the next 28 miles. Shut car off and parked it.
02 2.4 IL4 2AZ-FE Camry will not start, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. I still asked them to charge it, let it set overnight and test it again when I pick it up. It tested 100%.
Put battery into car, started car and drove it to automotive store to test charging circuit and battery with car running. Checked 100% good.
Car would not start, again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio. Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. Replaced battery. Car started twice and again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
Weird prob with this car. It starts ok but usually (90-95% of time) runs rough when I reduce pressure on the accelerator. During this time, the cruise control will not work; the cruise light doesn't even come on. However, about 5-10% of the time the car runs fine and the cruise control works. Not sure how these two are related.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Intrepid ES with a 3.5L V-6 with 264,000 miles on it. I have recently had the timing belt and water pump changed. Three weeks later I am driving home and the temperature gauge starts climbing. This is the first time this car has ever overheated. Well, I call my buddy who is a certified mechanic and he tows the car to his shop. I have him check the water pump to make sure it hasn't prematurely failed. He tears the front of the engine down and inspects the pump. He finds nothing wrong with the pump but he discovers the timing belt tensioner has failed and it has caused the engine to jump time, I tell him to go ahead and replace the tensioner.
After he put the engine back together he started it and it ran cool while it was sitting at idle for about 45 minutes. Then he took it for a test drive and it overheated again. He checks the thermostat and finds that it has also failed; he replaces that also, still overheating. New radiator hoses, upper and lower, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and it still overheats. He put dye into the coolant to check for a blown head gasket and it tested negative for a blown gasket. The exhaust doesn’t smell of burning coolant or producing white smoke. My mechanic friend and I both have run out of solutions…
My 2002 CR-V has 126,000 miles. For the last year I have brought my vehicle to the mechanic numerous times because it clicks (sounds from the passenger side dash board) bucks, and stalls while driving, especially if it has been sitting in the sun, causing the check engine light to eventually turn on. When checked by the mechanic it doesn't give a code. It seems to be electrical in nature because in the winter, even though it is significantly less of a problem, my new batteries seem to drain overnight. We have replaced both PCM relays, the air/fuel sensor, and the ignition switch. The problem remains almost unchanged. While highway driving I often have to switch gears because I will suddenly lose all power and could floor the accelerator to no avail. If I am sitting at a light, the vehicle will usually stall if I have to wait too long.
View 1 RepliesBattery tested good, tried jumping it as well with cables and with portable pack.
I hear two clicks under the hood (NOT a continuous type click you hear when the battery is dead). The first seems to be up near the passenger fender well when the key is turn to the start position, the second click seems to be down under the motor near the passenger side (near the starter I assume, couldn't tell very well) when the key is RELEASED from the start position. The motor doesn't budge, I don't see any belts flinch or pulleys move to indicate that the starter is engaging. I don't hear anything that sounds like a starter engaging to me.
If not, where the starter solenoid is on this thing? is it separate like the other older ford's I've owned or is it now on the starter? Is there any fuse-able links that could cause this? Wiring diagram? Is there a way to jump the solenoid like in the old school days (e.g. with a screwdriver or wrench)? would like to get this home without towing it or fixing what is really wrong with it in the parking lot.
It's in negative to single digit temps here in Indy now, I fired it up in the morning in negative temps, drove it work. Came out to go home, and now this. So something happened between this morning and now and it's not the battery.
I'm kind of up against the clock. I am sure this answer is in a book in the car. But that book looked pretty thick.
My husband just told me that he did not want to take my car to the ball game because he can't stand the cruise control turning off every time it gets even close to a car (yes, I understand what this may mean, but I'm not driving with him and he is a grown man).
Is there a way to disengage the automatic turn off on the safety cruise control feature? He likes to be the one in control I suppose.
I have been noticing that my prius wouldn't often turn OFF when pushing the On/Off button for the 1st time. For some reason, I often had to push the button 2x, just to turn off the car (2008). Yesterday, the 12v starter battery went dead, so I changed it. It seems that the On/Off button now works better as well. Are these 2 things related? Has noticed the On/Off button not responding on the 1st attempt at turning the car off?
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