Intrepid :: 2000 - Oil Light Comes On At Idle
Jan 5, 2009
2.7 engine..oil light comes on at idle..Had oil pressure checked and it checked good, never below 27. Found out that a service bulletin had been issued concerning this problem and that supposedly the dealer had "the fix" for $21. I bought the oil pressure switch "vent" ($21) and had it installed.. Also had new oil pressure switch installed... Still doing the same thing.. So now what? Must be driven about 10 miles before it will come on when you stop.. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes then it has to warm up again before it comes on at idle. Only comes on at idle.. I also changed oil and made sure to use a filter with the internal check valve to keep the oil from draining back. A person or two has recommended thicker oil but I am afraid to do that since I am told that the 2.7 has very small oil return holes..
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96 dodge intrepid, 3.5. Few yrs back kid flooded it at -10f. I changed wet plugs and it started. Ran ok for 10miN, idled fine .n than I drove it 10 miles and it would not idle. I was 150mi from home and kept going. Car ran so-so. Seemed sluggish at 60mph. Exhaust actually made black/soot stain on bumper. My mileage on hwy was about 1/2 normal. I pulled plugs when I got home and they were black. Took about 1 week of driving to eventually settle down. Never did find any reason for issue. Some said my o2 sensors were buggy. I never changed them and had car for 2 more yrs and it ran great. Why it would not idle?
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I found a low mileage 2000 intrepid with the 2.7 liter engine from a car that was in a wreck. I would like to put this in my 2003 intrepid with a dead 2.7. Someone said that 99-01 engines can be interchanged easily but I have a 2000. The first thing I noticed is that the engine harnesses are different between the cars, so I was wondering if I change the out the harness with my 2003 harness, next I trashed my flex plate so can I use flex plate and torque converter from the 2000. Would the engine still work?
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My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with 92000 miles. Several times a day I get a vibration or shaking coming from the right side front tire. It comes and goes. It only happens between say 30 and 50 miles an hour. It stops whenever you hit the gas or turn the wheel to the right. Seems to start mostly after hitting a bump or rough road.
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I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
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Oil level is fine. Doesn't appear to be sludgy. I want to check the pressure but when I looked under the motor to find the sending unit I could see one that had a white wire running from it. I need clarification on where and which place to hook up to. If the pressure is fine what indicates a good pressure? Should I replace the sending unit? oil pressure switch? oil pump? The book I bought didn't have but one picture, black and white wasn't that useful.
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I have a 2000 Intrepid. I start the car and turn on the cruisecontrol. The light comes on for 10 seconds then turns off. I have to turn the car off and on to get the light to come on again. But it still goes out after exactly 10 seconds. If I push the brake pedal before the light goes out then it stays on until I release the brake. I am never able to set the speed even when the light is on. I assume some check is going on during those 10 seconds and something is failing and that's why the light goes off. What part of the cruise control system is failing and how do I test for this failure.
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My wifes 1998 Intrepids' Check Engine Light came on yesterday, and while she was turning into the driveway the car stalled. It would fire right up again, and drive normally, but when she went to pull into the driveway again it stalled.
I took it into the shop, and they read the computer and thats when the P0731 code showed up.
P0731 Incorrect gear ratio # 1
When I went to bring it home, I then noticed that the speedometer was not working, and the tranny wasn't shifting out of 1st gear. The tranny fluid is clean and not burnt.
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I have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
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Weird prob with this car. It starts ok but usually (90-95% of time) runs rough when I reduce pressure on the accelerator. During this time, the cruise control will not work; the cruise light doesn't even come on. However, about 5-10% of the time the car runs fine and the cruise control works. Not sure how these two are related.
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I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
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I posted a few weeks ago about a problem I fixed with the MAF ( leak after the MAF ). 89 GT 111k miles, ( car restored to showroom condition ) Last week I pull to a stop light and idle is at 2000 RPM. Shut engine off and restarted and all was well, and idle back to about 800. I know something was wrong before hand as the car was pulling without my foot of the throttle. This happened again when I pulled into my driveway so let it run like this and when I pulled the plug on the IAC and idle dropped to about 600.
I took the IAC off the TB and cleaned it which did not look too bad. Installed IAC but left it disconnected and set up the idle on the TB according to the shop manual to 750 RPM. Shut engine off connected the IAC and followed the instructions in the manual to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, letting it idle for 2 minutes shut engine off then restart.
Well it was good for 2 days then started the same thing, 2000 rpm at idle..for the time being I have the IAC disconnected and set the idle up on the TB to about 850 RPM.
I have been driving the car like this for 4 days now and no running problems what so ever. Funny thing is no check engine light and no stored codes during this entire episode..Had my friend with an earlier OBD scan for codes and clean.
I hate shot gunning parts by replacing the IAC. Does it hurt running the car with the IAC disconnected or should I foot the bill and get a new one ? and hope that is the problem..or could something else be causing this ?
I checked for any vacuum leaks using my propane torch no change in idle. IAC problem on 89 Mustang GT 5.0 manual trans.?
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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I just got a 2000 Passat 1.8T with a bad motor.
Symptoms include: rough idle, oil leakage, coolant light comes on after running for about 2-3 min., I checked the coolant res. and it has what I suspect is oil in it. I know that the PO ran cheep oil and oil filters the last 2 oil changes and this has caused the famous cannibalization of the engine but what I need to know is would this feed oil into the the coolant over flow tank? There also seems to be some oil/coolant seeping from the upper left.
The car only has about 90k on it and most of those are highway miles, other than cheep oil, the car has been very well taken care of.
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I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
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OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
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on the 3.5 how do I get the harmonic balancer off? I know that you need to use a 3 arm puller. I have a 3 arm puller but I cant seem to figure it out.
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I can usually get up to 25mph no problem but above that and the car acts like it wants to choke out, then it doesn't want to shift gears (example the other day on a slight down hill grade and only because it was a down hill grade I got up to 50mph running around 4300rpms it wouldn't shift ). If I accelerate slowly some times it will shift then with out notice it will down shift (hard).
While in park or neutral when i step on the gas and hold it will rev up to 4000rpms then start to bog down or cut out dropping down to less then 3000rpms before i take my foot off. While the rpm's are dropping it sounds like it is starting to back fire.
There was a mil code for the fuel injectors but has not come back since i cleared it. I have change the transmission fluid and filter and replaced the crankshaft sensor.
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I'm working on a 1994 Dodge Intrepid with a 3.3L engine. The heater isn't working very well at all. I have run water straight through the heater core with a garden hose and it doesn't seem to be clogged up at all. I have also taken the blend air door actuator off and made sure the blend door was set on heat. Also, when the car is warmed up, I can pinch all of the heater hoses off by hand, and I don't feel like there is much, if any coolant flowing through them. The car isn't overheating or anything, so I'm wondering if the water pump could be working but just not pushing enough water through the system to run the heat?
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