We have replaced the pcm : Still no motor turn over -no start !
New Battery and cables !
All-- fuses and relays-- were checked and are ok !
No ignition to the starter - motor will not turn over !
Jumper wire from control center starter relay -then motor turns over !
We are at a Loss here - Could it be the ignition switch? Neutral safety switch ?
A few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
View 3 RepliesI can cold start my 98 f150 with the 4.2 and it runs fine. After you drive it for a while and turn it off and try to restart it, it starts then dies, it will do this until you rev up the motor to keep it running. I have to drop in gear and get going down the road and then it smooths out and runs fine. I had a mech check the fuel pressure at the rail and it was 19 psi. The book says it is suppose to be 35psi. He said my fuel pump was bad. I installed a fuel pump and it is still doing the same thing yet. What to check now?
View 14 RepliesVehicle is stranded on the side of the road (safely) and here's what happened. Driving (normal) 1/4 mile away from the house, motor shut down. Pulled off, tried restart. Motor turns over normally and all gauges work (temp/oil/volt). The only weird thing is that the O/D light on the end of the shift selector stays on even after pushing it on and off. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it will not link with the system. Yes... the ignition is on Is this indicative of a fuel, computer, electrical issue? or all the above. Worst case scenario is i have it towed to the shop tomorrow and they diag it. I don't have the proper tools to diag this.
View 9 RepliesMy ranger decided to start leaking fuel somewhere probably a few weeks ago. I can smell it whenever I start the motor, and sometimes while driving with the windows down. Last night, I finally looked into the problem. I took the intake air hose off. The hose, air filter, and whole intake smells like gas. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case on a fuel injected engine. After seeing some people talk about the Fuel Pressure Regulator go bad, I pulled the vacuum line off of it, and it has a very strong gas smell. I don't see any gas coming out of it, though, even with the motor running. Everything I read says if the regulator is bad, then gas should come out of the vacuum line. Is there another check I can do on it to confirm this is the problem? Is there somewhere else I should be looking? It got two new heads right before this problem started, so its quite possible I knocked something putting it back together.
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
i need to know what locations are these sensors at bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 what i`m asking is it at the front of the engine or the rear its a 2.7 liter engine.
View 1 RepliesWorking on a 1998 intrepid got the codes po134 po171 po154 and got all the codes taking care of except 1 po134 which it says its a oxy sensor just took it for a test drive after about 10miles it starts spewing black smoke and trying to stall out, then it clears right up after that.
View 2 RepliesHave 2003 Honda Element. Beginning about 8 months ago I only drive it on weekends. I turn key, motor would crank, then die, crank then die. Maybe 5 times, then I would turn key and car would start without any problem. Went to dealership and they checked ignition system out found nothing wrong. Told me when you don't start everyday this sort of thing happens. Sounded like BS to me. Recommended I start it and drive a few miles every day. I began doing this did and starting much better. Now, occasionally, I will still have the same problem. Today I went to get Chinese takeout and I turned key and engine cranked weakly and then nothing. like no engine in car. Tried to start repeatedly and no response. Then I turned key again and engine started like new car.
View 4 RepliesMy 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
View 3 RepliesThis 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford Contour se 2.0. The alternator went out in the beginning of January. Had it replaced, got it back it ran for a couple of days and it just died on me and wouldn't start. So back to the shop it went, fuel filter was clogged so they changed it, and I got it back last Friday. It ran until Saturday morning and as I was driving down the road it just died!! Just like that...died. Got it to run for a few seconds...it would die.
Finally got it back home and now it won't start. It will turn over, but won't start. If it does start it won't stay running longer than 2 or 3 seconds. I've had the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and spark plugs checked. Everything is fine. Oh and yes, it has 3/4 of a tank of gas in it. What is wrong with this thing?? It also has around 151,000 miles on it.
My dad has a 1998 S10, 4.3 2wd. He said it gave all clues to a starter going out. We replaced the starter and solenoid, charged the battery and got clicking. The lights turn, radio, etc. When we turn it over, we get clicking and that's it. Not sure where to go from here?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid that generally runs fine but, on occasion when I turn the the car off and then try to re-start it nothing happens. It has gotten so that I am afraid to drive it, so I am forced to leave the engine running while I run my errands. Other than this one problem the car runs fine.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1998 Toyota Avalon with 125K that has a new battery, new battery terminals, and new cables. However, at random times it will not start when you turn the key. You turn the key...all the lights come on but nothing. It does not turn over, make any noises nothing. If you continually turn key off/on it starts most of the time. On the occasion it does not start after a few off/on turns it jump starts easily. This occurs about 2-3 times a week. What could be happening? Could it have anything to do with the security system?
View 3 Replies1998 explore will not start when hot will turn over sputter and die, after 15 minutes it will start right up that was last monday when it was 80 outside it now colder outside has not done it again, the only thing i have seen that temp gauge is not going past cold never getting to center it will try and drop back down...
View 11 Replies1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
View 1 RepliesHere is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.