Integra :: Clutch Pedal Will Only Come Up About 2 Inches
Sep 22, 2009
so this morning i go to start my car and i notice that the clutch pedal will only come up about 2 inches. and it's hard to push it into gear with the peddle all the way down. this has never happened before. when i pull the peddle out it just falls back down. but my friends clutch is like that so i figured i could still use it. after school i get in my car and it still does it. only this time it wouldn't come out hardly at all and i can't push it in gear. it took me 10 minutes to get it in gear and every time i shifted it would grind cuz even pushing the clutch in all the was wasn't far enough for it to release. how in the world do i fix this/ what is wrong with it?
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2006 4.2L The pedal is good and the fluid is full but the clutch engages and releases about 2 inches from the floorboard. Is there possibly a rod that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder that moves the engage/release point along the pedal travel? Any thoughts before I get out the creeper?
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I drive a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid. For about three months now, sometimes when I brake the pedal only moves a couple of inches, freezes and the car won't stop. The car also makes a strange intermittent sound like someone humming with his mouth open. Sometimes the brake light comes on the dashboard, sometimes the ABS light, sometimes both, sometimes neither. When I take it in to the garage, everyone reports there is no code for them to read. During this time I have had the bearings (noticed road noise) and the brakes (squeaking) replaced in the rear right wheel.
Before the brakes were replaced, when the pedal froze, I stopped the car by pulling on the emergency brake, putting the car in neutral and/or turning the car off. When I restart the car, everything goes back to normal. Since the brakes were replaced, I haven't had to go to those extremes. I take my foot off the brake, depress it again, and the car usually stops. If the ABS/brake lights are on, I turn the car off and on again, and all goes back to normal. The problem could occur three times in a day or once in a month. I never know when it's going to happen. After reporting these symptoms to my local Ford dealership, the place where I buy my tires and my garage mechanic, they all shrugged and said they couldn't do anything. I'm thinking no one wants to be liable when the crash comes.
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2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
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I've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
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Can switch out the R's clutch pedal for the Audi R8? Was in an Audi showroom yesterday and there was an R8, and it was actually open. It was manual and the clutch placement was perfect, way better than the R. I've got short legs, but the R8's reach was great. The R is a bit long for me.
I know that there is compatibility across Audi/VW platforms, but I'm not sure of the R8. The TT is compatible for sure but I don't know if the clutch pedal is the same or not.
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My B5's clutch started not returning by itself when the really cold weather started. When it gets warmer it starts to spring back up. I called the dealership and the initial cost of looking at it takes me somewhat aback. I've already spent quite a bit on it last year. Reading some of the threads on other car models I've seen mention of clutch master/slave and fluids.
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Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
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Ok so I took my R out to look track to get some 1/4mile passes in. Didn't do anything out of the norm. Took my first pass and noticed that much clutch pedal wasn't feeling right. It wasn't grabbing like it usually does, it was grabbing close to the floor. I took it out of gear and pumped the clutch peddle a few times and then it grabbed like it normally would. I've never had something like this happen in any of my VWs or any other car. What may have happened? I was thinking maybe a slave cylinder issue?
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My wife has a 2003 Camry that we had to replace the clutch last year. Now her clutch pedal goes to the floor and does not return.
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I have a 2001 Ford ZX2 with 170,000 miles on it. The clutch pedal doesn't engage the clutch until it is almost touching the floorboard. I thought it had a hydraulic clutch being a 2001 but I can't find a reservoir for the fluid so now I must assume now that it is a mechanical clutch.
1. Does they hide the reservoir on these ZX2's?
2. What could cause the clutch issue?
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I have a 2002 Celica GTS with 80,000 miles. The clutch pedal pressure was very stiff. I had a 2001 GT, and it had a very soft and easy clutch. I just removed and rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder, using the CSK 2426 rebuild kit. The slave cylinders on 2000 to 2005 Celicas are all the same. After bleeding the cylinder, the pedal pressure is very much improved. It still takes some effort, but not like before.
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Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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I have a question about an annoying issue that I'm having with the clutch pedal: is it normal for the clutch pedal to knock or vibrate whenever the AC is on? I ask because it only happens when the AC is turned on. The knocking goes away if I fully depress the clutch pedal or only lightly depress it. It seems to only occur in the in-between.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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Experienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
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I changed my brake light switch, and i had my buddy check it with vagcom and now I am getting a clutch pedal switch fault and I am also getting a clutch mechanical fault in my rear end what the most probable cause of this, could it be the clutch pedal switch causing a mechanical fault?
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I am having a scratchy type feeling in my clutch pedal when i accelerate in 1st gear or R from Neutral. as im easing off the clutch and applying gas, there is a mild scratchy feeling coming from the clutch pedal. its more a feel and no noise. The car is brand new with 600km, its a 6 spd gti. I just want to see if its normal or whether i should get it looked at.
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I have a 2013 elantra, manual transmission. I have about 17k miles on it and it's 8months old. For some reason my clutch pedal is really loud. At 12k my power steering rack was replaced and I wanted the clutch addressed then but they didn't address it and claimed it was fine. Then at 16k my master cylinder was replaced. Within four hours the sounds came back. They are not addressing what is making the sound properly and claim it is okay to drive on it. My issue is with all of these crazy sounds that don't belong how am I supposed to tell if there is an issue with my clutch.
I drive about 30k a year. There could be damage happening and I will be expected to pay for it because it wasn't addressed because with my clutch making sounds I won't know if there is something abnormal, usually having a sound tells you that. I also get a pull to the side some times and when it happens I feel like I don't have control of my steering for a split second. I have owned two previous hyundai vehicles, and many standard vehicles and never had these sounds from a clutch. Whether it is the bushings or not it shouldn't be making sounds. Engineering should be trying to problem solve this, but instead hyundai hands me back a defective vehicle
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