Integra :: 1999 - Valvetrain Noise On Cold Start
Aug 9, 2011
I've got a '99 Teg LS auto trans with 67k miles. When I start it cold, there is some valvetrain clatter that quiets out after a few minutes. I'm thinking this is due to some sticking valve lifters but I don't know this engine very well.
Does the 18b engine have hydraulic lifters?
I've also seen on other forums that the noise could be due to a worn distributor bearing, but with this low miles I find it hard to believe. Or it could be both.
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I'm working on an 05 with a 5.4. I got it with a bad valvetrain noise on the PS, which ended up being a bad cam, and one bad rocker. I changed the bad rocker and any others that showed any wear, the cam, and all 12 lifters on that head.
The truck starts, idles, runs, and drives fine; identical to my own 05. But if I get on it, it has a dead spot around 3-4k rpm, then picks right up again. After a while, I get the p0012 (Variable camshaft timing over-retarded bank 1). After I get it pissed off, the idle gets rough as well and bogs down.
Now I know the cam went it correctly. I used the wedge tool so the phaser never left the timing chain. I marked the chain as well just to be safe, and the phaser only goes on the cam in one position. Also, it idles too nicely, and runs fine under normal acceleration.
Tonight I swapped the VCT solenoids from one side to the other. It took a lot longer to get the code, but finally came up as a freeze frame dtc, and on Bank 1 again, so it's not the solenoid.
So in my mind, all I can think is that the timing chain jumped (which I don't think is likely due to the good running under normal conditions), or the phaser is bad/sticking on Bank 1. I popped off the oil fill tube and the phaser looks fine physically, so I don't think I banged into it somewhere along the line. I also manually excited the Bank 1 solenoid by grounding the purple wire, and it gives my the same rough idle which I get after the p0012.
It looks like the phaser to me. Another mistake I made was not scanning the truck when I first got it. It came right from a repair shop which diagnosed the camshaft, but I would have at least known if they cleared any codes from it.
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2000 Acura Integra 98k miles. Around 90k timing belt, water pump and all sealants were done - and valve adjustment.
Since then I thought that there is a minor loss of coolant - also heard some grinding sound at cold start.
Today in calif, weather is under freezing. I saw handful of coolant under the car where the water pump is. The reserve tank is almost empty - at 95k coolant was topped up.
I went to another mechanic and he wanted to bring the car next week - he will try pressure test - if it is minor leak, it might not work he said - will do other tests. Didn't say the price. Not sure what the fee is for diagnostic.
What are some practical tips? This is the first car now and plan on keeping it. Given it is been about 2yrs with the timing belt job, I am not sure if I have any recourse. Credit card companies only take care if it is within 2 yrs.
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I just got done rebuilding my 7A-FE engine and I noticed that at idle its somewhat noisy from the engine bay. With the hood popped it sounds like its coming from the valvetrain area, like around the valve cover/intake manifold noise. I'll have to get a video up of it. It's not a grinding noise or anything like that, it just sounds like the valvetrain itself is just noisy.
Are these engines just chatty like that? I know I've heard of the 1zz being somewhat noisy.
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I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder. Just reached 200,000 miles this past Sunday. I did a cold start this morning and there was a grinding, metallic noise from under the hood. I turned the key bafk because it didn't sound good. Turned the key again and it started like normal and ran fine. I had a new starter installed last Thursday and now I'm wondering where this noise is coming from. Before I changed my starter, I had the bad starter symptoms in the last two weeks, slow to crank over, the whining airplane noise (happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks). But now, this new grinding noise has me even more worried. Does my engine have to get used to the new starter and what other issues could this be? The battery passed the battery test at Autozone, and my alternator is fine as i unplugged the positive and negative wires from the battery while was truck was running. I really really like my truck and am trying everything in my power to keep it running as smoothly as possible.
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I have a 1999 BMW 3 series, 112K, 5 speed, immaculate condition, only full synthetic oil used. After a cold start - even today at 55 degrees - I get a strange noise from the engine compartment which gets louder according to RPMs. The BMW dealer replaced the oil separator for the motor ventilator and some of the respective hoses and valves associated with it. They also checked the oil pressure when the motor was hot and cold and advised it's fine; however, the noise is still there. (A different BMW dealer service advisor said, just after hearing it, it was an oil pump issue.)
On an unrelated note, when the motor is warm and I'm in stop and go traffic, the idle speed will sometimes go up and down (500 RPM - 900 RPM), and when it reaches 500 or so RPM, it dies. The car always starts back-up right away. Spark plugs are new and I used OEM BMW spark plugs. My thoughts are the idle air control valve.
Otherwise, the car is great; yesterday I took it on a 250 mile RT highway trip without any problems.
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
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This is second time that this happened to me.I used to happy owner of Integra with 220,000 of mileage. Couple of months back, I replaced CV axle and MTF in tranny. On the two hour long trip, I noticed my engine was overheating. I stopped my car, let it cool and refill it with water. I unscrew the radiator cap(carefully) I and noticed that small bubbles were coming up.I rented a block tester from Autozone and discovered that these bubbles are exhaust gases.
Car ran like a dream for about a months. However, about two weeks ago I noticed that car would start up with more hesitation(3-4 cycles before it would actually start after keyturn). About a week ago I noticed that engine would also start somewhat rough. It all culminated when I was stuck yesterday with plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The engine shook violently as if was running on one cylinder. It wouldn’t hold idle either. Then today engine would start normal, however, I didn’t drive it anywhere. I didn’t want to risk. The white smoke was still coming from the pipe. Sparkplus: #1 and #2 looked cleaner than ashy #3 and #4. I tested a sample of oil from the engine. I put several drops of oil on the aluminum foil and put a lighter under it. Oil began to splatter indicating that the was water in the oil. I also noticed that every time I shut down my engine, I hear hissing noise for another 5 seconds after engine is completely off.
So at this point I am baffled. I am not sure what to do. I am thinking about replacing the all the injectors to test the theory that old injectors would leak and destroy head gasket while car is parked. I am not really aware of any leaks from my injectors.
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I just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
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Once a week or so my car doesn't start right away after I have driven some where, such as to get coffee, the library, or shirts from the cleaners, It makes noise as if it will start, but then gives up. If I sit and wait patiently -- doing nothing for 15 to 20 minutes or so, it will start. The mechanics have checked it over several times, but can't figure out what's wrong. They suggested putting in a new engine relay a week and half ago. Since then, the problem has happened twice.
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My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
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Basically i have an integra here used to be a gsr with a type R engine. Basic bolt on's and 8lbs flywheel, 6 puck racing clutch. Here are the problems, i hate fixing other shops messes but here we go. When sitting at a stop light if we hit the brakes a few times every time we do it the rpm's drop and start going up and down, some times when the car is just sitting there idleing it does it. Had the same problem on a del sol with a gsr engine and b16a2 head on it done from the same shop. Also when its cold the owner complains that it will take him like 1/2 hour to start it. I was thinking that the grounding wasn't good enough. The check engine light is on as well, but how to get the ecu codes out of this ecu.
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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1999 Acura Integra 4DR LS Auto with 93k miles
I tried to bleed by letting the engine run with the Radiator cap open and the heat lever set to the max. It ran almost 10 mins but the the fan never came on! It was Not getting hot either. I had the hood opened. I manually raised the rev to 2.5k rpm and engine got hot a bit -After I reved up to 2.5k, the temp gauge hardly went to under 1/4 of the gauge. Fans still didn't come on. It is pretty hot here in North California today.Then I turned the AC on - the both fans came on instantly. When I turn off the AC it went off too!
Is this normal? Or do you think that it did not heat up to about 80 degrees Celsius. Do the engine normally takes between 20 to 30 mins of running to get to operating temperature for the fan switches to work? If I drive on the road for a while and when I park with engine running (no AC on) and if the radiator fan is running, can I dismiss the issue?
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I have a 1999 Acura Legend and the temperature control slide came loose so to adjust the temperature I have to slip a small screwdriver inside the dash to slide the cable inside one way or the other. Has the cable come loose or did the plastic slide break? Any tips on how to remove the climate control console so I can get a look inside?
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My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 1999 Acura Integra (which incidentally is a great car). Seems like my gas mileage has been down by a couple of miles per gallon ever since.
Is it possible that some normal aspect of replacing it would reduce gas mileage? This was a new shop to me--is it possible they did something to the engine that would reduce the gas mileage?
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I get told that both of the front Upper Ball Joint Boots are cracking. Replacement was recommended.
It has 95k miles and never raced - 1999 LS model.
Is this normal on Acura Integra's? Has double whisborne suspension. Should I use Honda part?
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2005 Camry SE 2AZ-FE 4cyl 5 speed manual bought new well maintained 119000 miles. Makes a funny noise on cold start up when temp is below about 20 deg f just the first start up of the day. The noise sounds like a ZIP and is just for a second or 2 at the most. I can feel it in the steering wheel like a high frequency vibration. Seems like it's doing it at not quite as cold a temp but has been doing this since the first winter I bought the car new.
Hard to isolate without a second person standing out there in the cold, definitely coming from under the hood. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley. Serpentine belt is original but has no cracks and is properly tensioned. Since it's done this since day one I'm hesitant to start pulling things apart. Car runs great aside from that. Mobil Super High Mileage oil 4,000 mi change interval, Toyota Filter always. The noise is just after the engine initially fires not starter related in my opinion.
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