I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
View 1 RepliesHot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
View 19 RepliesI've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
Basically i have an integra here used to be a gsr with a type R engine. Basic bolt on's and 8lbs flywheel, 6 puck racing clutch. Here are the problems, i hate fixing other shops messes but here we go. When sitting at a stop light if we hit the brakes a few times every time we do it the rpm's drop and start going up and down, some times when the car is just sitting there idleing it does it. Had the same problem on a del sol with a gsr engine and b16a2 head on it done from the same shop. Also when its cold the owner complains that it will take him like 1/2 hour to start it. I was thinking that the grounding wasn't good enough. The check engine light is on as well, but how to get the ecu codes out of this ecu.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
View 6 RepliesI've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
How many O2 sensors does a 2.3 fi 4 cyl. have. I think just one on the manifold, but I'm not completely sure. Engine is running very rough and seems to miss at low RPMs, has no power and drinks gas like crazy!!! Emissions light is on on the dash. I'm thinking O2 sensor......tried replacing, but couldn't get enough torque on the sensor socket wrench to loosen, may be rusted.
View 6 Replies1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
View 9 RepliesTwice now this has happened to me and I'm concerned it will become worse if I don't fix it. Driving down the road my engine has disengaged. By this I mean the vehicle both times has been at 55 MPH, my foot on the throttle rpms riding around 1300 revolutions, and the engine disengages rpms drop below idle and my "wait to start" light comes on. This both times lasts approximately 2 seconds and throttle reengages while still traveling 55 MPH, "wait to start" light goes off and its like it never happened. What's going on with my truck? Ford diesel 97 250 7.3 ...
View 2 RepliesAs listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
View 12 RepliesSo I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 Replies1987 Acura Integra.... Had the timing belt, belts, etc done.
Screeching sound - I know it is the belts are loose - initially it wasn't there and then it started and it was getting a bit worse slowly. It seems to only happens when the engine is cold.
I went back and had the belts tightened.
Does this tell anything about the mechanic/workmanship?Should I be concerned about other areas of repair that does not have the symptom of screeching?
I have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
View 14 Replies2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 Audi A4 that has been acting a little bit strange lately. When it is started up and left to idle all of a sudden the RPMs drop from around 600-800 to 100-200 sometimes rebounding back up and sometimes the car just dies. This also is happening while I am driving and stopped at a stop light for a short time. It will idle fine then suddenly drop RPMs and if I don't give it any gas then the car usually dies. I have just had some work done on it to try and fix this problem thinking it was the air flow sensor (or something like that) but apparently that is not the case.
View 2 RepliesCold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
View 2 Replies1987 Ranger and the computer will not communicate. I'm trying to check for codes because of a rough idle and stumble when starting out from a stop. Check engine works but won't flash when using a jumper across the data link. Used a OTC scanner but it only times out and comes up "no data". Where to go from here?
View 7 RepliesMy '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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