My daughters 2006 Infinity G 35 transmission hesitates to downshift when lugging at 35mph. Is this a trait of this vehicle or a problem with the tranny or anything else?
View 2 RepliesWhen cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
Well, After reading about the weird transmission issues these cars have...mine finally started to do it. It will clunk, shake the car when it shifts and downshift for no apparent reason. All of this does NOT happen all the time. The noises that come from my transmission do though.
I can have the car in Drive and have my foot on the brake and I can hear a grinding/low power steering fluid like sound that comes and goes. Its worse when I shift from Park to Reverse though. It sounds like air being released followed by a bunch of faint grinding noises.
Long story short is that my radiator malfunctioned and mixed transmission and coolant. I took it to a shop and they did a flush of both the radiator and transmission after putting in a brand new radiator. I drove it home and it has sat for a week. I popped the hood today and there is a little pit of pink transmission in the radiator no big deal but the transmission dip stick is thick and pink so I know there is water still in the transmission. I have already concluded I will need a new transmission and was curious what will I need to have replaced? Just the clutch, the entire transmission, or something else? Also would it be cheaper to have it overhauled or find a rebuilt transmission and pay to have it swapped? I understand quite a bit about cars but when it comes to transmission I have not knowledge.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Infiniti G35 base sedan. The dealer noticed oil on the engine and said that I needed to replace both valve covers and gaskets -- My question: Why is it necessary to replace the valve covers and not just the gaskets?
View 6 RepliesI have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
View 4 Replies2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
View 6 RepliesHauled my in-law's pop-up camper across the great state of South Dakota this week and noticed that when downshifting from 4th to 3rd it would occasionally flare a bit on the downshift. it was a real quick 100-200 rpm flare when it did it. it would not always flare, though, so it took me a while to figure out a deciding factor. (I had time, as it was about an 8hr haul with kids). what I finally noticed is that if the trans temp was below 180F, the downshift was solid - no discernible flare. but if the temp got north of 180F, then it would flare a bit and never seem to "learn" it's way out of the flare until the temp dropped below 180 the ambient temp was between 95-104 on the trip, and the trans seemed to run between about 170-190 depending on how hilly the terrain was. it didn't downshift a lot. I could pull most of the hills in OD, even if it had to unlock the converter. is this a sign of anything?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Volkswagen Jetta MKIV with an automatic 4 speed transmission (m01), and the car has only 100,000 kms on it, was always maintained either by myself or at the dealer, and never abused...ever!. Recently, I noticed that the transmission, going from 2nd to 3rd gear (and only 2nd to 3rd gear) will only sometimes hesitate...meaning the engine either revs a little bit (about 100rpm...yes one hundred) right before it changes gear, or if I'm going up-hill and it happens, it struggles to find the gear from 2nd to 3rd. However, this does not happen all the time, in fact, if someone who may not be as informed about cars, drove the car, the may never notice it. I checked with VCDS and no fault codes for transmission, only 2 fault codes from the engine misfiring because I sprayed the engine bay with water a while ago, and water accumulated in the dizzy.
View 24 RepliesI have been a long time Lexus owner (ES and 3 RXs), but I am new to the GX. I just got a 2014 GX-40 w/ Premium Package.
The GX has a lot of the same features my previous RXs had, but of course has some improvements (smoother ride, quieter, better stereo sound, real 4WD).
1) The RX had a console that had the USB connection in it. I found it very handy to just leave my iPod plugged in there. I just had to switch the Source in the radio whenever wanted to listen to it. Since it was in the console, it was out of sight from thieves. On the GX, my iPod won't fit in the small area where the USB ports are. I don't know if an iPod touch would even fit, and they have much less music storage anyway.
2) The GX obviously weighs more than the RX, and it has a V8 engine. Some portions of the power band in the GX seem to be peppier, but overall, the GX feels a little more sluggish. Sometimes I manually downshift the transmission to pass a vehicle, etc. Are there any other alternatives?
So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
View 14 RepliesI was driving on the highway at about 80 mph when my car made a thunk noise and then the mph dropped to 40 mph. The car was hesitating but I continued to drive it to gas station. At this point steam was coming from passenger side engine front. The coolant was coming out now my car was overheating to the extreme. I drove it to shop. Next day he changed the thermostat and water pump. But he said it took him a while to get air out / bleeding it?! The day I drive off with my repaired car it still sounds loud eventually it sounds like a helicopter!!! Next day take it to Infiniti dealer they say I need a new engine. Internal engine failure! Could this have happened because the water pump wasn't replaced correctly? My car is a 2006 Infiniti G35x, 96k miles.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2000 Excursion V10. Love it. I bought it, though, with 170k miles on it and I'm going through it and fixing what needs to be fixed.
Looking at the tranny, I can't tell if it needs attention or not. It drives fine, takes off, cruises, all that. The only thing is, when driving I'm going along in 4th, if I let off the gas and then lightly get back on, it'll kind of hesitate. You hear the engine rev up for a split second, then the transmission grabs and the rpms drop back down to normal. Note, the rpms never rev more than 2 or 3 hundred rpm before it grabs again.
The fluid looks red and doesn't smell burned or anything. I just wanna know if I need to start saving my money for a rebuild or not. Also, when the time comes, need to know about Monster transmissions? I plan to buy a reman'd 4R100 from them when the time comes.
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 with 308657 miles on it. After changing the trans fluid, filter and checking the center support bolts for proper torque I'm still having the same problem as before. When put in drive it doesn't seem to want to pull itself much until I throttle up to 1500rpm or so, then it grabs and goes. It acts similar in reverse but the rpms aren't as high. There was a coating of something inside the pan and on most of the parts along with the magnet being covered. What to look at to narrow down my problem?
View 4 RepliesI just got a new Honda Fit. 5 speed. I recently just hit some black ice and to avoid hitting the guard rail and other cars, I had to do some very odd maneuvering - a combination of e-brake, downshifting, and a whole lot of praying.
So here are my questions, during this scenario while attempting to downshift (unsure if I had the clutch all the way in) I heard a strange noise that sounded like a windy-click, like something retracting from a wound-up spindle.
Last question, pulling the e-brake. I felt compelled to pull the e-brake based on my fishtail and luckily it stabilize the car. This happened at about 25mph. Unsure if at that time if I had the clutch all the way in - did I do any damage to the transmission or the e-brake in this situation?
I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
I was driving up a fairly big hill in Connecticut using cruise control (65 mph). The transmission downshifted, and the car started to rev (speedometer and tachometer) and slow down. I then felt a clunk and the car started to go again. The car kept on doing the rev up and then clunk as it gradually slowed down. Putting the car in Park caused a grinding noise, and Park did not keep the car from rolling. What did I break?
View 6 Replies