Infiniti :: 2001 - Losing Power / Car Will Not Move Forward When Push On Gas
May 16, 2012
I have a 2001 infiniti i30 automatic with about 118000 miles. The car runs and drives fine but every now and then while i am driving it and i push on gas the RPM will go up but the car will not move forward. I noticed that this usually happens when I drive the car a lot. If i turn it off and on it drives normal again. I have had 3 mechanics try to troubleshoot it one recommended to change the MAF which I did and the car ran fine for about 6 months and is starting to do it again. Service engine soon light is on again. What exactly is the issue that's causing it.
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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My wife's power drivers seat will only move forward not back. Fuses all look good and the passenger seat operates fine. If this continues and she hits the button again she will need to be shorter than the 5' she is already. No chance at this point I can fit in the car.
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My 2010 Rx has just recently been doing funny things, and when I mention it to non lexus owners i get the stink eye, as in you're really complaining about that?
So I turn to you, I think you all are familiar with when you press on the break and hit the start button the power seat rolls you into memory 1 (I am the sole driver) well i have noticed that when I do this, my seat moves up about an inch and then pauses while the car literally starts up it then continues to move the chair all the way forward.
Also when i go to lock my car from my keys the chirping confirmation isn't as loud as it once was. its raspy somehow? I was sure if these two things have any correlation but I noticed these two issues together.
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My 97 toyota 4-runner has now had three times with a loss of power making me unable to drive the car. The first time behaved differently than the last two times. Currently, I can't drive the car.
The first time, I had just filled up the gas tank (while the station underground tank was being filled). About 10-15 minutes later while on the interstate, I had a sudden loss of power and the vehicle eventually would not move forward at all. The idle was fine. I had it towed to my mechanic thinking I had gotten a back tank of gas. I believe the check engine light was on... he determined that it was a bad mass air flow sensor and replaced that. He said the filling of the tank was co-incidental.
Months later (Jan. 2015), during our first cold spell, I had driven the car, parked it overnight in temperatures of 9 degrees. The next morning it didn't want to start. I finally got it to idle to warm up in neutral, but then when I would give it gas to move it, it would stall. I finally got it to stay on and to move with barely enough power to drive it the mile to the mechanics. On the way it started "back-firing" under the hood and smelling progressively hotter although the engine heat light was normal. By the time I got it to the mechanic going about 5-10 mph, I thought it was going to catch fire, it smelled so bad. Check engine light never came on. The car sat there unmoved for two weeks while I was out of town. After the two weeks, the mechanic finally checked out the car (outside temp was now up in the 30's & 40's) he got it to start and drive, but it was "running rough". He cleaned up the connections on the coil, which had some corrosion and gave me back the car -- no charge.
It ran fine until yesterday, when the same scenario played out. Another cold snap (-4 degrees). Drove the car across town to do errands and fill the gas tank. parked it overnight. The next morning I couldn't get to start initially. Finally got it to idle. Warmed it up for 30 minutes but it would not stay running if I took it out of neutral and gave it any gas. Check engine light did not come on. This time the car is 30 miles away from my mechanic and I don't want to have it towed if I don't have to....
My mechanic thinks it's either a fuel or oxygen issue. He told me to have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tanks while I try to start it to see if that effects anything.
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I got in to the 92 Lincoln, shifted into drive, and noticed transmission slippage. I checked the transmission fluid. The fluid did not smell burned but was under the add a pint line. I added fluid to the full line. The car is worse. As you shift into drive, then you have to race the engine to get the car to move forward. The car will go up the block but not with any speed. It seems as if it is not developing enough power to get the car to move forward. If I throw the car in reverse, it drives normal. Is it time to sell the car to the demolition derby?
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Bought this truck (06 F250 cclb diesel) earlier this year and (as far as the seat is concerned) worked perfectly until about 2 weeks or so ago, when I learned that the passenger power seat works in every direction except for to move the seat back. Since every one that got in the truck didn't believe me and now the seat is almost at the glove box I finally decided I should do something about it. I have removed the fuse and let is sit with the the fuse out for about an hour, no change. I had read on another fourm that if you recline the seat back a few times it resets the module, attempted with no change. It is to the point I need to get into a bit more serious diagnostic processes however I am unsure exactly where to start.
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1996 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 Litre Base, 43000 miles... While driving, this car, suddenly accelerator pedal becomes very hard to push and car will not move at all even if you press hard pedal to the floor( Requires a lots of force). If I put brakes on, shift the transmission to reverse and to then to drive, it will start moving again. No check engine light comes on and there are no codes stored in computer. This never happens on cruise control. Car starts flawlessly even on cold morning. Battery is new and charging system works fine. Spark plugs were changed at 30,000 miles so also direct ignition coil on cylinder No.3 .....
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I have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
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Got a 06 Limited with power third row option. The rear Pas. side seat is stuck down and when I push the button you can hear the motor running but the seat does not move. I have tried shaking the seat while pushing the button with no luck.
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I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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Last night I jumped into my Treg to move it into my garage. When I pushed the brake pedal to move the gear selector out of park, I heard a whooshing sound. Like the sound of a bellows-type foot pump I use to inflate my dinghy. I could also feel a slight amount of movement in the transmission lock button on the top left side of the shifter when doing this.
Now I'm noticing this noise whenever I apply the brakes. It doesn't appear to affect braking performance, but does have me wondering. I'll have the dealer check this out when I take the Treg in for the recent recall (got my notice yesterday).
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When I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
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Here's the story and unfortunately no happy ending so my VW started rubbing on the front right side a lot, causing my tires to rip on the front right end. After a while of sitting in the garage i finally decided to go and get a new tire for the car
on the way to the tire shop i noticed some very weird squeaking, i figured it was from the spare tire but it continued even on the new tire. That same night heading to the gym, the R started jerking while driving, almost as if i was pressing the brakes while driving
eventually the car just locks all the tires out of no where, i barely manage to pull into a side street and i could not even make it more than 4 feet from the curb forward. A friend of mine stopped by that saw me, he pulled a cable that seemed to have been wrapped around my axle, said it might of been causing the problem. As i drove away, maybe half a mile more, the car locks up entirely again, this time unable to even get to the side of the street it locked up completely in the middle of an intersection. now here is where it gets really strange. Even in neutral the car refuses to go forward, it was on a hill, in neutral and the car refused to move. So i attempted to push it a little, in drive, i pushed on the gas. it almost feels like the car is setting up for launch control, like the brakes are being held down and it moves about 6-10 feet and grinds to a halt, same in reverse. It took us almost 20 minutes to get it up on a trailer and another 20 to get it into the garage just going 2 steps forward and 1 back the whole time.
I have heard anywhere from transmission to drive train, to transfer boxes and axles to even a warped rotor causing this. Where to start?
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My question is this...when my foot makes contact with the brake pedal there is about a quarter or half inch of "space" where I can push the pedal forward before you can feel whatever the pedal pushes against make contact and begin applying braking.
This dead space area will always activate the brake lighting but until you reach that next part under the dash somewhere no braking occurs.
I am quite used to driving my 2010 and this doesn't occur....can not remember if the 99 has always done that and i just realized it or if this is a new issue.
Brakes and stops great with and without load. No issues otherwise. Pedal pops out quickly and normally when taking your foot off.
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The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
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My drivers seat wont disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Any shot from the manual before I take it apart?
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