I have a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport. Since moving to Tucson, AZ, from Flagstaff, AZ, the car jumps when changing gears (I have a manual) as if I was back in the day of learning how to drive a stick shift. This only happens in the summer, when temperatures get up to 110. Also, the idle is very rough and the car almost stalls when stopping quickly (this is infrequent). What's happening with my car?
View 2 RepliesJust purchased a 2001 Ford F150 super crew lariat v8 4.6/5.4 2v OAD at 156k miles, iv had no problems with it until I drove over the pass and after 2hours of driving my truck started to jerk when I accelerate between about 40-60mph. I don't experience any other problems over 60 it runs smoothly and in town under 40 it also runs smoothly, no check engine light. The next day is still continues to make a jerking motion, which feels like from the rear....
View 2 RepliesWhen shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
View 6 RepliesMy car is less than 2 months old and randomly in low gears the car will jerk or lurch when shifting gears. Is this common or does this need to be looked at?
View 18 RepliesMy 2004 4 cyl Santa Fe the check engine light came on now it jerks in all gears kinda like its missing.
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2010 Hyundai Elantra GLS with about 40k on it. It was driving perfectly fine for about a week until the car would start jerking as the gears switched (I should note I switched the car out of ECO mode when I got it because I found it harder to accelerate with it on. The ECO mode keeps the transmission in higher gears to support fuel economy). I went to my shop and had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced. The car switches gears a lot better now, but another problem seemed to arise. About a mile or so after turning the car on and driving, it will switch into neutral for 3-5 seconds until I hit the gas hard enough for it to catch on and move. I've had multiple experienced people drive it around for awhile and they seem to find everything completely perfect with the car. Could it just be the way I drive, turning ECO mode off, or could something actually be wrong with the transmission or other parts?
View 10 RepliesThis is the second time I notice a problem with my 2014 elantra base model. The car only has 13000kms and today the car acted with a weird behaviour. This car has a manual 6 speed transmission.
Out of the blue the car jerked like it had a problem with the transmission switching gears which is weird as this is a manual.
The second time this happened the wife was driving and she said that she was in is third gear and she pressed the clutch and the brake at the same time and she felt a small jerking feel in the clutch like it didn't engage.
The problem is that I cant reproduce the problem. The car is still under warranty and I don't want to go to the dealer with a problem that I cant exhibit.
07 accent with transmission lurching.
As the auto trans heats up, the gears begin to get sticky. This creates a jerking motion as the engine downshifts while braking. It also happens at high speeds when attempting to downshift for acceleration.
Additionally, while shifting from park at hot temperatures, the transmission will take up to 15 seconds to engage into drive, and even more time (30-40 sec) to shift into reverse.
The car has recently (approx 6-8000 miles ago) had a complete transmission flush. The auto shop in town also suggested and did replace a sensor somewhere which supposedly had gone bad. But the problem persists...
I am having issues with a 2006 Gen II Prius that just approached 120K miles. When going down a hill at approx. 35-40mph, the engine jerks when downshifting or when coasting.
View 3 RepliesMy standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
My car is a 99 honda accord v6 EX (coupe)It started overheating about 2-3months ago. I was driving along and the needle on the gauge was completely on hot. I was able to make it home. Ive basically been driving it this whole time with the defrost on 80 and on full blast. Which keeps it around the halfway mark between hot and cold. I had a friend change my thermostat .. didn't fix it. Still overheats. But after he did that it seems to get hotter faster now. When I am at a stoplight it gets as hot as the gauge will let it go, then when I start driving again it cools down a little.
Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
View 11 RepliesI have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
I have a 2013 Outback that has since new chugged and has had a feeling of not going smoothly through the gears up to around 30 mph (mainly around 20-25 mph). Since it occurs intermittently the first two times into the dealer to fix it they found nothing wrong but on the third time back in they found that Subaru sent it out from the factory with 1/2 quart too much tranny fluid. Dealer drained to the proper level but I am still noticing the same symptoms only not as bad as before. Took it back for fourth time and after they drove it for a total of 10 miles and hooked it up to the computer they said they could find nothing wrong. My question is driving it 10,000 miles with 1/2 qt too much tranny fluid going to have caused damage or possible future damage to seals, etc. When I asked the Service Manager that he responded that I had plenty of warranty left.
View 2 RepliesI have an early model year 2004 Touareg which has lately developed what appears to be a slipping problem when changing gears from 5th to 4th when decelerating or the same when accelerating strongly and downshifting. When switching over to tiptronic mode, its not clear if that apparent slipping goes away or changes. It definitely isn't as severe but that could be due to perception or the RPMs where the shifting is occurring.
The only real interesting characteristic of this clunk and lurch that is experienced is that it only happens when the car is warm -- I've been watching the transmission oil temperature, and it appears to start happening as it passes through 200 degrees. When it starts, the lurch/clunk is small and not too bad. As the car reaches temperature, it reaches if full lurch/clunk potential.
I have taken it to the dealer once and they have "upgraded software" that was supposed to clear up the problem, but did not.
My 2000 Subaru Outback (75,000 miles) runs well almost all of the time. Every so often, especially when the weather is cold and I have been making many short trips, the transmission will refuse to engage into any of the forward gears (Auto-Trans). It will do reverse, no trouble, but not the forward ones. It does not do this with any sort of regularity or consistency. I have had it checked by my mechanic and he said that although it did this it sounded fine and was not shifting roughly. Thinking it might be a fluid pressure problem, he put in fluid additive to soften the seals and this worked for about a week, then back to square one. I saw enough notes posted on other forums by other Subaru owners to know that this might be an issue with this year's model--maybe some sort of quirk that I hope can be fixed without a new trans.
View 5 RepliesAbout twice a year I am noting a too soon change of gears on automatic mode. This may be the fourth time it happens is just coming and going by itself.
I notice that when driving on constant traffic and going about 40mph I'm doing 5th gear so when traffic clears up I have to really step on the gas so car downgrades to catch up with traffic. What may be happening?
2015 Outlook 2.5 CVT - Regardless of engine temp/or oil temp, transmission will stay in low gears (relative - its a CVT) such that the car is always doing approx. 2100 RPMs. When it occurs, 35mph is 2100 RPMs; when problem is not present, same speed would be approx 1200 RPMs. Same for higher speed. 45mph would be 2100 verses approx 1400rpm. Gear indicator does indicate a '4' or '5' when it would normally be '6'.
Outside temps in excess of 30 degress - no evidence of problem. Below 30, may or may not happen. No check engine light and it does affect MPG significantly.
I have a squeak when I change gears, especially from 1st to 2nd. I have a twm short shifter with bronze cable bushings. My first thought was that the bronze bushings were causing the squeak, but I eventually narrowed it down to the shaft that comes out of the back of the transmission with the weight bolted on it (not sure what it's called). I took out the intake filter box so I could get at it and confirm that it was where the squeaking was coming from. That's definitely where it was coming from so I pulled back the boot seal and greased the shaft with some white lithium grease. That has worked a bit, but the squeak is still there.
View 8 RepliesMy wife always chastises me for not coming to a complete stop from backing up before I shift the car into drive. I do not shift when the car is still moving more than 1-2 MPH, in fact it is barely moving when I change gears. My wife insists that I come to a complete stop and wait 1-2 seconds before shifting from reverse to drive. She is convinced that I am doing damage to the transmission the way I shift. I insist that no damage is being done and point out that with over 100,000 miles there have been no transmission problems with the car. Am I damaging the transmission by shifting before I come to a complete stop in reverse?
View 9 RepliesI drive a 1998 B5 1.8T passat. This happens when i go up a hill, i mean i can go up the hill fine but then when I go straight my rpms go crazy before changing gears, idk if this is normal but I doubt it.
View 9 Replies