Impreza :: 1993 Will Not Run Good After Hard Start In The Morning
Nov 18, 2009
My 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
View 2 RepliesMy 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
View 2 Replies1993 Dodge Ram 2500 .... Multiple symptoms... some times engine turns over but truck will not start. sometimes engine dies whether driving at slow or high speeds. Happens whether engine is cold or warm. After sitting a while, the truck starts and will run for several days. Has 40 lbs of fuel pressure, we've changed out the ignition switch, crank sensor, distributor cap, rotor, pickup, engine control module, crank shaft position sensor.This has been happening for three months, I've been towed in 4 times. When mechanic connects diagnostic tool to the ecm, the engine starts and runs fine. Diagnostic shows no data of previous problem.
View 3 RepliesRecently, I have a weird issue on my car starting problem, 2005 I4. This happened after I replaced the upper engine mount (dog bone). When I left my car parked overnight and try to start in the morning, it makes a very slow start (Ruff Ruff noise). I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it starts. All the lights are still bright when I get to the car in the morning. The car has no issue at all when starts it during daytime or when I park car at work (about 8 hrs.). I checked and cleaned the ground terminals and make sure everything is tight.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 12-year-old Honda CRV with 185K miles on it.
Recently, I had the car in the shop to fix an oil leak in the engine. I also had the catalytic converter replaced, since its connection point was badly rusted. Since I got the car back, I have been experiencing intermittent trouble accelerating the engine when I first start up in the morning. The engine idle sounds normal at first, but when I take my foot off the brake and put it on the accelerator, nothing happens for several seconds. Eventually, the engine seems to kick in and accelerates almost normally, though a bit more slowly than it used to.
The problem seems better if I make sure to rev the engine loudly when I first start it up and worse if the weather is damp or it has been raining since I last drove. After a few minutes of driving, the problem has always gone away so far, but it is nerve-wracking to pull up to an intersection, stop, and then have trouble accelerating to get through it, especially when there is oncoming traffic on the cross street.
Does this sound like a problem with the idling, or am I experiencing the beginning of transmission trouble, or could it be something else? Is it likely to get worse over time?
Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
View 2 RepliesSo the car is a 1999 golf gti with a 2.0 AEG with a 5 speed manual. My brothers car. He has been telling me its been hard starting in the mornings for a couple months, sometimes it dies, sometimes it idles at 500 or lower, he has to rev it up to 1500 to get it to warm up then in kinda stays normal till he cold starts the car again, then does it all over. So he was driving down to my house to leave it with me to look at and on the way over he heres a big bang. has the car towed over here.
Cyl #3 has backed itself out and clearly a serious misfire, threads look fine so I put all new plugs in oem ngk three prong, runs ok still too low 400/600 stalling a couple times. this morning i installed new wires (Bosch)and a coil (aftermarket) and it barely wants to run now, stalled instantly. So I put the old coil back in and it stays running but watching the motor, its clearly misfiring. No codes as of yet and i have no access to vagcom. I've checked the firing order and wire placement on coil like 8 times to make sure it is correct.
I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra has great difficulty starting first thing in the morning if it has not been driven for a day or two. Once I finally get it started, it runs fine all day. My mechanic has finally traced the problem, after keeping the car over the weekend. He says 3 or the 4 injectors have very tiny leaks and so a few drops of gas are leaking into wherever. They put something in the injectors they thought might solve the problem, but I won't know until I leave it for several days and then need to start it.
View 1 RepliesThe last couple days the truck has been a hard start in the morning. about 28 deg F. I thought the glow plugs were getting weak or a couple of them were out.
Hooked up my AE and pulled codes, one of them was P0261 # 1 inj. Truck is fully warmed up and is running fine. Did a koer glow plug test and it came back ok. Power balance looks good now.
Probably looked different when I finally got it started this morning. Took 3 cranks to get her going and it sounded like crap till it got a bit warmer.
My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
I have a 1993 Subaru Impreza and the hatchback/trunk is no longer opening.It was working fine one day, and then the next day it just wouldn't open.It doesn't feel broken, the handle seems fine...it just won't open anymore.
View 4 RepliesMy daughter has a 1993 Subaru Impreza with 5 speed manual transmission. I have been driving it because of problems getting it to go in 1st gear. Most of the time the car goes from a stop just fine, but whenever it is on any kind of uphill grade the car seems to be stuck like the brake is still engaged. I hear a "grinding noise" I think is coming from the right rear wheel. This happens only in 1st gear, then the car is fine after that, I tried starting from 2nd but the same thing happens. This car is front wheel drive.I think the brake may be sticking in the rear wheel. The car has a new clutch and I put in new brakes all the way around. Is there a way that I can temporarily disable the right rear brake (drums)? Maybe then I could isolate the problem.
View 5 RepliesThe 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
View 1 Replies'93 Civic 1.5 manual starts first crank when cold but has trouble starting if you shut it off within 5-10 minutes of initial start. Just cranks and cranks, no start. Wait a half hour, starts right up. Warm start no problem, just that first 5 minutes after initial start. Gonna check it out today . . . first chance I've had to look at it. No other problems, drives and runs well, no stumble, good idle, mpg hasn't changed, just this annoying issue.
View 2 Replies1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
My 95 Saturn SL1 has been a real trooper these years. This is the first hvac problem I've had.A couple weeks ago it felt like the ac was starting to go, and by last week it had gone. I figured it probably had a slow leak and just needed a recharge. So I bought a kit from the auto parts shop - for $30, it was worth a try!The pressure in the system reads full - even a tad high, without putting any gas in!I double checked everything. Compressor clutch engaged, and the gauge was attached properly.
Inside, I can hear the familiar 'foop' when I switch from "hot" to "cold," which I'm guessing is the air blend door, and the air is noticeably hotter on "hot" mode - so I assume the blend motor is ok. What might be going on here, or where a well-aimed kick might have an effect?
i have a 1996 ford tausue lx about 150000 miles...when i starts the car up and i let it warm up some before i drive it..when i put it in drive the car jerks hard i did check transmission fluid and it was good.what could cause this..i did open hood up and i did see motor move back some in i put it in drive..
View 3 RepliesMy subaru pulls very hard to the right, so hard that I can not go any faster than second gear (It feels to un-safe) I hear a like metal on metal kind of noise, almost like a ding or a bell sound. It wobbles very bad also. It feels like my tire is about to fall off! I tried to wiggle or move the tires to see if they would move and they did not (Advise from a mechanically inclined friend) I was driving on a muddy road when it happened, and I bottomed out at least once. When you look under the car you can see exposed metal, it is dirty under their obviously and the metal that we saw was not dirty so maybe something slipped out of place or fell off? The bar that connects to the wheel has a rubber protectant thing against it or covering it and that is where the exposed metal was.
View 2 RepliesI had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
Our 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
I have noticed that anytime i leave the car parked for more than 5 hrs or so, when i get in and put my foot to the brake pedal to start, the pedal feels very hard... as tho someone sat in the car and pressed it several times.... So great force is needed to mash the pedal to start the car... After it starts the pedal gets nice and soft as normal... Is this normal?? Or should i get it checked
View 9 RepliesMy sonata 2012 with 71K km on it just started hard shifting in the morning, after first start. It slamming in D from R very harsh and then shifts all other gears for ~3 minutes harshly (upshift / downshift) and then it gets fine and shifts gears with absolutely no problem throughout the day. Dealer of course was not able to reproduce the problem.
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