When turning a corner at low speed (left or right) while riding the brake, if the suspension bounces (e.g., crossing uneven manhole cover) the left front brake pulses for .5-2 seconds. The pulse is felt in the brake pedal. A grunt noise comes from the suspension. Cannot reproduce over parking lot speed bumps.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Impala 3.4 with an intermittent starting issue. It starts perfectly every morning but after it is hot and I park it over 15 minutes or so it will sometimes not start. All the regular dash lights come on as normal but when the key is turned it does not even try to turn over, it is just silence, To get it started I have to hit the column shift lever upward several times and then it will kick right off with no hesitation. Sometimes I have to turn the key 10-20 times to get it started also. I had the battery, starter and alternator tested under load and they are all fine. It is not the security problem either that many impalas have. The only code I have is a PO 336 for crankshaft position sensors. Is there some kind of linkage in the column that could be worn that could cause this?
View 5 RepliesMy son has a 2000 Impala which will not start if it has been warmed up and then turned off for 30-40 minutes. If you turn it off and wait 15 minutes it will start every time - wait much longer and you are stranded. The starter sounds normal and you would think it is going to start but it won't. The car sat at the dealership for 2 weeks and they couldn't solve the problem. If the car is cold it starts every time.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 impala I just bought and it has an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I step on the gas the motor will 'slam'---kinda like if the motor mounts were bad but they look good and it doesn't always do this. Also, if I hit the gas pedal hard and then almost as quickly let off the gas pedal I get the same effect--shutter/slam. I suspect the mounts but they look fine. If I keep on the gas all gears shift very smoothly. Gear shift is smooth thru all gears if I floor it or go slowly accelerate so it seems not to be the transmission either.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with the front rotors on my '01 Impala warping. The pulsing is really bad when decelerating from highway speed. They will last maybe a month after installing before they start to warp again. I purchase my parts at the local NAPA store. Is there something I could be doing wrong during installation or it bad parts (cheap material)?. Could it be an issue with other front end components?. The car has 173,000 miles on it.
View 19 RepliesGot a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
View 5 RepliesThe wife's '07 Chevy Impala's wheel is making a funny noise - sort of a "whoop whoop whoop" out of the front passenger side wheel as the car gets up to speed. there is vibration in the steering wheel also. When coming off a local highway down a hill, she had to hit the brakes semi-hard and there was a great vibration from the brakes.
I have already rotated the tires in case it was a tire/wheel issue, and took to mechanic to replace the bearing - and it seems to have gotten worse. The mechanic said the back bearing looked good but he still wanted to replace... which wont happen. recently had a control arm replaced by same mechanic in front but don't remember which side.
Without any particular known triggers, the car either will not even turn over, or sometimes the electrical will come on, but the car won't start. Wiggling the keys and steering wheel don't necessarily work, and I can't shift it at all when it's not on. Took it to the garage and left it there for days -- never did it for them. Starter? What to do?
View 3 RepliesMy impala over heated on me and it doesn't turn on..... What is wrong with it?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1961 Impala thats tail end is giving me some trouble. The lights will light up when the light stalk is pulled out but when the brakes are depressed, nothing. Also the reverse lights will not turn on when the car is put in reverse. I have changed the fuse that says tail to no avail. Any starting point that would be useful.
View 19 RepliesA year ago, I had a problem starting my car (a 2004 Chevrolet Impala, about 120,000 miles). When I put the key in the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn. I knew there wasn't a problem with the battery because my lights, radio, etc. were still operating fine. Instead, I got a bright flashing "SECURITY" message on the front panel of the car. After a few minutes pacing around the parking lot, I returned to my car and it started without a problem. I checked online, and several car forums and articles claimed that this was a common problem in 2004 Chevrolet Impalas: some faulty wiring in the security system would stop the car from turning on because it thought you were trying to hot-wire the vehicle.
After the first incident, I didn't encounter this problem again until recently. Within the last 2 weeks, this problem has become more frequent, occurring maybe 2-3 times per week. The car won't start and I'll get a flashing "SECURITY" message. If I wait a while (between 5 to 30 minutes), the car will eventually start. I finally decided to take my car into a Chevrolet dealership to get the problem fixed. I described the problem to the mechanic; she guessed that the cause was associated with the ignition cylinder....
I'm currently using a 2010 Impala as a loaner. I had bought a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe from a dealer and 5 days later the engine blew. I've been using loaners from them for over a month until the engine is replaced or I decide on a different car. They have a junkyard engine on the floor, but they only have one mechanic so things don't get done on time. This Impala has 107K.
I did the carfax thing and it was a rental for the first 2 years, then owned privately. Occasionally the ABS light and t/c light come on but I'm convinced it's a chafed wire because it seems to only come on when I turn the steering wheel a certain way. They had checked the codes and came up with nothing 'wrong', which makes sense to me... it seems like either a crappy connection or chafing or something. This will need to be addressed and fixed before I sign anything but....
My dilemma right now is this: The roads are currently snow packed. If I punch the gas pedal from a dead stop there is sometimes a slight hesitation and a whirring sound, oddly enough it sounds a lot like a windshield washer pump. The car runs flawlessly otherwise. I asked a friend who also owns a 2010 Impala and he says he's never heard such a noise. I don't see how anyone could miss it. If I disable the t/c, there is no noise.
Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
For the first time today, the passenger front tire resisted being turned. It was hard to turn. What might the problem be?
View 6 RepliesGirl next door has a 2010 Chevy Impala w/31k mi. Has a buzzing noise from LF while traveling. This is not a clunking CV joint, so don't tell me that. Not a wheel bearing, okay.
This occurs while traveling straight at 20 and up. I jacked LF up. Noise very noticeable on left while in forward gear, but not reverse. Noise more audible in cabin than outside. In neutral, spun wheel by hand, no noise. Compared right side, same tests, no noise.
New brakes last year. Brakes look real good as do rotors. Consulted three mechanics, none have ever heard of this before.
I'm noticing some odd behavior from my Brand New (50 miles) Chevy Sonic. When I get to about 40-45 mph steady, the car seems to apply a small amount of braking every few seconds. The effect is strong enough that my head bobs forward somewhat.
On a long drive, I could see it getting VERY annoying. It really "feels' like braking and not like engine sluggishness, but I"m not 100% sure. I was thinking traction control. I'm going to the shop next week but would be nice to be pre-loaded with some ideas, maybe even some things I could look into myself.
2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
View 1 RepliesI've had this intermittent plastic rattle coming from the back end on bumpy roads at low speed. It's not the license plate and bracket (already fixed that one). Yesterday I happened to tap on the outside of my left tail light and heard it rattle with the same noise I'm hearing on the inside of the car. There is no rattle when I tap on the right tail light.
View 5 RepliesAbout 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.