IS F (2008-2014) :: While In Drive (D) Tranny Wouldn't Shift Past 2nd For A Couple Of Seconds
Oct 9, 2014
I just got my ISF 3 weeks ago and this issue got me pretty worried. I would like to hear if there has been a recall or a fix on this issue. While in Drive (D), the tranny wouldn't shift past 2nd for a couple of seconds. It went as high as 4.5RMP and wouldn't shift, the RPM kept going up. Letting go off the gas did not work, the RMP just stood where it was and slowly decreased with the speed. This lasted for a few seconds. I must admit that I was just pulling out of the driveway and she wasn't properly warmed up (16 degrees temp or 60fh)...
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98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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2000 Saturn L Series Station Wagon 73,772 miles
The Check Engine Soon light was on this morning but when on highway today and at 70MPH the Service light came on and then the Reduced Power light.
Couldn't drive past 5MPH but when I turned the key off and back on the power returned but the tranny was Slamming into gears. I made it back home but where to go from here.
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I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
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I've had a 1999 explorer for a few months. The transmission has always taken a couple of seconds to "catch" in drive and was then fine. Today, I had to tow another car a short distance and now going into drive directly is useless.
I must shift into 2nd and then back into drive. Then, for the most part, the car drives fine unless I have to put it in Park or in Reverse. Then I must repeat the procedure.
The fluid is fresh and the dipstick shows a slight overfill. Is there anything I can do about this or is this the death of the transmission. If I can run it another couple of years, I'd be satisfied.
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My 6'4" hubby just got in my PriusV 2012 to use it and when he tried to shift into reverse, the parking brake was on and the anti skid icon lit up. It would not shift into drive. When I got in to see what was going on, after he turned it off, everything worked fine for me. It has never done this before but he rarely drives it. Is it possible he was mashing the regular brake pedal down too hard? He wasn't hitting the parking brake getting in or anything like that, I watched when he tried a second time.
We kept trying but he ended up taking his truck instead (which I was washing for him) I know on a couple occasions making fast, hard turns into our driveway I have lit up the anti skid icon but other than some extra braking action it has not caused a problem. And once while stopped at a light and reaching for something in the back seat, I lit it up, but I forget what the car did. I was mashing the pedal down hard as I reached back. I assume in both cases the car thinks I am getting in a wreck and is taking action.
Of course, I just finished washing it but there is no chance it's anything with that? I moved it from the front yard to the back and had no issues before he tried to use it. Anyway, I had this thought about pressing the pedal too hard after he left and here I am asking.
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My VSC and check engine light have come on. In addition now the auto trans will not shift past 4 gear with in auto or with me doing it manually. My local shop who has worked on this car before and is very good put the computer reader on it and got a P0500 for vehicle speed sensor "A". Today they put it on the real monitor and it reads a different code that says check engine code but does not reveal the code to read.
I really don't want to go to my dealer and get it hard. The car has 175,000 and until now has run great. I tried the gas cap fix to no avail. The shop did a reset when i first got there and it last 75 yards.
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I need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
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Very strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
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Today I parked my 2014 Toyota Corolla while the shift was in drive and I turned off my engine. I let go of the brakes and it began to move backwards. I then realized what happened and shifted to Park and took out the keys and turned the engine back on to park it correctly. The on screen display seemed to restart or something when I did so. Will this hurt my vehicle? It is a CVT transmission by the way.
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I've noticed something very strange today with my Lexus. It was -8, in Toronto, and I had to start my car quickly and drive it. The engine was still cold, but I had to leave early. The odd thing which happened, is that after driving slowly and coming to a stop, for a stop sign, the car wouldn't go, though it was on drive. The car was still cold. It seemed, that the tranny wouldn't switch gears.
I brought the car to a total stop, and put it to a parking position, then drove again for a couple of feet, and the tranny wouldn't go again. I waited for the car to warm up a little bit, and the care drove normally after. Is it normal like that? Do we have to wait for the car to warm up? Or there's something wrong with my Tranny.
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So this morning on my way to work, open highway, late for work... I did what most chewbaccas would do. Turn of ESP, and punch it! Well that quickly become an issue. My CEL started flashing for a couple seconds. As soon as it happened I let off of the accelerator, turned ESP back on, and coasted... lil bit loud in the back, but it normally is. (HFC, 3inch EIP Comp exhaust) The CEL went away.. but I'm nervous about what could have happened. I just replaced my Haldex Pump a couple months ago, and the rear diff was replaced 3-4 years ago. I haven't scanned it yet, I'll do that when I get home tonight... I tried to do a quick search in the forums but didn't come up with anything significant .
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I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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I have a 2009 corolla with about 125,00. I bought it used about two years ago and it has been trouble free. This morning when I went to start it, about 29F with heavy frost on the windows, it would fire up run for a couple of seconds and cut off. I id this probably 20 times and gave up. I called a neighbor to take me to my bus and thought I would try it one more time. fired right up and stayed running. Also started right up when I tried it later when I got back from work.
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Ok so about a month ago I went to the store got into my car turned on my car after a couple seconds it beeped about 3 times then turned off i turned it back on and it worked fine ... and now yesterday i was driving the car everything was fine till i was driving on the freeway and it beeped 3 times again and looked like it was going to turn off but didn't .... and about a half hour later driving doing about 45 mph the car beeps and turned off on me ... So I pulled over and just turned the car on and it worked fine again ...
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I am having this weird issue that started from what I believe this weekend. I was doing 70mph and it was snowing. Not always but something like maybe 1 out of 5 times when I activated the washer fluid motor my headlights would turn off for like 1-2 seconds. Super scary when you are driving in the pitch dark on a highway.
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My car is a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L. It has an automatic cvt transmission. Here's the scenario: I turn my car on and shift into drive. I'll drive for maybe 10 feet and I will hear this strange sound that can only be described as a dull knocking followed by a dull scraping sound. The dull scraping sound will last for about 5 seconds. The sound appears to originate from behind the gas pedal, and I'm think I can feel the gas pedal vibrating very slightly as it is happening. The only condition that makes this sound happen is when I shift from park or reverse into drive. If I start my car and put it in drive it happens. If I'm at a red light go to park then drive, it happens. If I turn my car on, go in reverse, then drive, it happens. However it doesn't happen if I just stop and don't change the gear selector. It's been happening since I bought the car at 56k miles, I'm at 69k now. I haven't seen any decrease in performance, the car runs like a champ.
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It was pretty warm this afternoon, had the AC on full blast. Drove into a left turn lane and stopped for the red arrow, the engine began spurring for a couple seconds. Then it caught itself but afterward felt the whole car shake for like a minute, drove off once it was a green arrow and nothing else happened. Has any one else had this or a similar experience happened to them? My Camry just hit 30k miles, I wonder if it just had a "spaz" (or whatever you want to call it) attack.
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I'm experiencing an annoying problem with the air recirculation value on my Touareg. Basically it will randomly go into oscillations for a coupld of seconds, where is sounds like the vent blowers are either speeding up and slowing down quickly, or the recirculation valve is opening and closing rapidly.
This seems to happen randomly, and usually only lasts for a couple of seconds. I've taken it to the dealer twice but they aren't able to determine the cause of the problem.
Here is my theory for what it's worth. I think it may be the recirculation valve, whose job is to close the external air value from outside air to recirculating internal air when it senses pollutants in the outside air. I think the problem is caused by one of two scenerios;
1) the sensor is bad or failing and sends random signals to the vent controller causing it to open and close rapidly, or
2) The control circuit is not tuned correctly, thus instead of waiting to see if the pollutants it senses is sustained, it reacts instantaneously.
The noise this produces is quite annoying!
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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