A Water gets into wheel hubs much easier with aftermarket wheels than OEM wheels. I have a set of BBS RS-GT wheels and this is what the rear hub looks like after about a year. Previously I noticed with OEM wheels there is just a little surface rust. Hopefully I won't need to remove in the future as it looks welded.
View 14 RepliesSo from my previous post of might having a tranny problem or differential issue, it turns out that my front passenger side wheel hub is bad. Here is the odd part......the front passenger side wheel has some side to side play and it does make a clunk noise but it spins freely. On the driver side, there doesn't seem to be any play but it has resistance when spinning the wheels. Are both front wheel hubs bad or just one?
View 1 RepliesIt's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
(2004 f150 S.Crew 4x4) I noticed that my 4 wheel drive is not working. The front hubs won't lock in. The transfer case will go into 4 low but the hubs still won't lock in.
Anyway, I have pulled vacuum on both actuators and one of them won't hold. It's obviously bad, but is that why I don't have 4x4? It seems to me like it is not...
When I pull a vacuum on the actuator that does hold, it disengages the hub from the driveshaft allowing free-wheeling. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when the truck is running in 2wd, vacuum must flow to the actuators preventing the hubs from engaging? The actuator on the bad side is locked 'in' so the driveshaft always turns.
According to my train of thought, since the actuator has failed in the 'locked in' position, I should still have 4x4- What am I missing?
I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
View 12 RepliesOk, so I have a brand new 2011 F150 SCrew EB direct from the factory. It's about a week or so old and I have almost 700 miles on it. It is garaged all the time while at home...
So I was looking under the front end just checking things out...getting to "know" my new truck (which by the way I love) and everything looks new and great underneath...nice new painted surfaces...metal etc until I see...the knuckles behind each of the front wheels are starting to rust. I'm assuming these are cast iron but why would they not paint these?!
I mean, everything else is painted and looks great but then you see the rusting knuckles underneath?? AM I missing something here...is this normal? For all of you who own the same truck, have you seen the same thing?
My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
View 14 RepliesSo.. Today coming back from work, I felt clucking sound from front wheel when going from 5-15mph. I even felt that when I had my left foot on the foot rest area. Its appeared during the driving from work to home and check whether if there is any rock or tree branch on tire or wheel but no...
So after 30mins later, went to gym and the the sound was completely gone.. Would it be because of bad wheel bearing or suspension or ball joint issue?
2012 ISF
Using spacers and widening the stance? If yes then how wide and what were the results? Any pictures?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced the lower control arm bushings. This is for an '01 GTI. Getting ready to put the wheels back on. I've noticed lately that it can be tough to get the wheels off. And I noticed that the the hubs are a bit rusty.
Would it be a good to put some anti-seize on the hubs, before refitting the wheels?
And maybe treat the hubs with a little Evaporust or something similar, first?
Front hubs are making a clicking noise pull in 4x4 and it quits also when pulling camper or boat quits make noise when you let off the gas could this be a vacuum line issue or automatic hub issue?
View 2 RepliesHaving problem after installing 15mm spacers. Cleaned the hub with sandpaper and re-torqued but still getting somewhat wobbling on flat roads.
View 14 RepliesNoticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
My 2010 f150 stx 4x4 fails to lock in the front hubs...
View 2 Replies2009 f150 4x4. My front hubs are ratcheting, I probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any trick to find it? I had to drive about 90 kilometers to get home, hope I didn't ruin anything. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I have a vacuum gauge.
View 1 Replies2012 Passat with only 6k miles. I have surface rust on center wheel hub area. Is this normal or should I paint it or is this a warranty issue?
I have it on 3 of the wheels..
My 2009 F-350 4x4 has a front wheel option of Auto or Lock ; I think I understand the Auto option but under what circumstances would I lock the hubs and is it safe to leave them in the Lock mode when traveling on the highway?
View 5 RepliesHaving issues with the vacuum falling off to the hubs when driving and light throttle. I know makes no sense,but kept fighting this thing making vary harsh rubbing sound since I bought it used and I know its the little collar on the back side of hub that engages to hub to make the 4x4 connection but it looses vacuum when driving and very light throttle/load.
I verified using a vacuum gauge ran inside vehicle when driving. Checked all lines and hubs,everything good. Solenoid has vacuum when running but seems to quit when light load or throttle and as soon as vacuum falls off then the collar starts to engage and rubs but doesn't fully engage. I don't get it. Unless there's something on the computer side of it shutting off the solenoid or something.
Experienced a weird clicking sound when the steering wheel is fully locked either left or right, when turning at low speeds? Its more of a pop than click. No issues driving straight, or in regular turns, just when fully extended.
View 7 RepliesI was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?