IS F (2008-2014) :: Wet And Sticky Door Sidings After About An Hour Of Driving On Hot Sunny Day
Mar 22, 2015
This happens all the time i use my car on a hot sunny day,my car does not have tints, after about an hour of driving my door sidings start to get wet and sticky (just near the windows) it will go away or dry up later when parked on a shaded place....my question is, should i wipe it off when this happens? I tried it last time but it was like wiping off a sticky substance left when you peel of stickers....i think this is normal with IS interior
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I have rpm stalls then comes back every 2 seconds at idle After one hour driving . Whitout any error code and no check engine . I checked all the sensors and even changed alternator and throttle body completely. No I suspect to crankshaft position sensor .
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So, my door actuator is acting up. When it's hot outside, and the car has been parked under the sun, the keyless system won't work. I need to use the physical key.
But if it's cool, or if it's parked indoors in shade, the keyless system works. Is this something that needs to be replaced, or is it an easy repair? Summer's almost over, and it may not be an issue for another year...
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its kinda like its freezing up; the pin wont go down sometimes and I have to cycle it multiple times b4 it will descend.
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I just got a used 06 elantra gls. The drivers side lock seems like it doesn't have enough power to unlock its self when I try to use the power locking. It unlocks fine with the key.
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My drivers door has become progressively sticky / stiff to close, I have tried to lubricate with oil / grease but it remains difficult to move?
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We were coming home today from a 300 mile trip and we were heading into a 40mph head wind. Anyway we start to here a clicking sound in the driver's door like something is blowing around in there. It sounds like a piece of metal hitting on metal or like a small rock blowing around in there. Tick, tick, tick, it about drives me crazy. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow and hope it continues for them. Ever have that happen when something is going on with your vehicle and take it to the dealer and it doesn't do it. 2010 Lariat....
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My F started to do this a couple of months ago. It will not unlock the driver side door with either from the handle (while key in your pockets) or with the key fob (when pressing the button). If i go to the passenger side and place my hand on the handle it will unlock the doors except the driver. Is there any remedy to this? Does it have to do with the Actuator?
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I have the car stored but when I went to start it last week it was dead. Trickle charged the battery and noticed on the cluster my car said the door was open (it was not). I firmly closed it and it the indicator went off, check later and the light came back on. It's likely hardware and not something I can clear so any tips?
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So I have this recurring problem where my passat will die while driving, and fail to start. Usually I know it will die because the accel. is sluggish and the power steering is dead (but no light) when i start it, but today that did not happen. It just died completely out of the blue.
When it dies, it cranks for a second, then stops and the dash screen/lights fade out. The most annoying part is that everytime, I get it towed, then it starts.
The first time it happened the dealer said nothing was wrong. It started for them fine. Kept it overnight, and was good next day. Died a month later from same thing.
Second time the dealer said the alternator and battery were bad, got both replaced. (about 6 months ago).
Today it died again, with no symptoms beforehand. Tried for a while to start it, no go. Nothing engine related worked. Auxiliary did though. Had AC / Radio / Hazards just fine, i only used hazards though.
Got it towed, and I myself went and started it right after it got off the truck, it started. Had to give it gas to get it stable, but it started. I had the dealer check it out, and they said they found 3 fault codes that they have never seen, then later told me they did not know, and didn't want to blame anything unless they were sure.
This was right in the middle of a vacation trip 2 hours from home, and I decided i should just turn back. On the way back I noticed that the AC, Cig Lighter, and Heated Seats were not working. On top of that the car felt like it would die at any moment. Almost no throttle, sounded very weak / quiet. And about 25min in the car started stuttering, like it was about to give up. I pulled into a parking lot and tried it 20min later, started completely fine. No sluggishness, but AC etc still out. After that I got it home fine.
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New owner of 2014-RX350. I have figured out most stuff simply using the owners manual (go figure), but this one continues to stump me, as I have repeated the procedure right out of the owners manual without success.
Manual states to have only one fob or card present, car in park, "ignition on" position (I interpret this as two pushes to the ignition switch), push desired memory button and hold while pushing either lock or unlock button till chime sounds. I get the chime. But when I lock the door, wait a minute, and unlock the door by touching the handle, the car unlocks just fine, but seat does nothing. When I manually push L2 (in my case), the seat does indeed move into position. But I cannot for the life of me get this function to work.
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Have started seeing an issue on my 2012 about few months already and the dealer could not even diagnose it because it is intermittent.
Sometimes when I arm the alarm, I can hear the actuators/solenoids cycle, but there is no single beep and the driver's door invariably remains unlocked. Repeated press of the arm button on the fob would not change, i.e. vehicle remains unarmed and driver's door remains unlocked. All the other doors are unaffected.
I can cycle through by pressing unlock once or twice, then the next relocking press would work. This is worrisome if I didn't pay attention to the beep and thought the vehicle is locked while in fact it was not, this could also happen when the vehicle is at the dealership as the porter would think pressing the button would have locked the vehicle.
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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Diagnosing a few dash warning lights that come on all within an one hour of driving. While driving to a family gathering and after only 5 minute into the drive a get a warning light that looks just like a car battery. A minute after that I get "Alternator Workshop". Rather than stopping on the freeway shoulder I kept driving, because my 3 month old daughter on board. I would hate someone to plow into us. Therefore, I kept driving on slow lane without problems until15 minutes later I feel this thump and the car surges for a second. I thought it was a blown tire, but the ABS & another symbol (exclamation point w/semi-circle) & Airbag system lights came on all at once.
Luckily I was near an off ramp and I exited and pulled into a shopping center. Since it was already dark out, I did notice that my all my lighting and headlight were dimmer than usual and I also noticed less power from the motor. I quickly looked at the manual to find out what all these warning symbols meant. The battery symbol means problems like be loose or broken alternator belt or faulty alternator. I am hoping all these warning light are not separate repairs, but a single problem, like a bad battery, loose or broken alternator belt that is hindering all these other functions (ABS & airbag system).
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Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
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I bought my Treg a on 1/16/05 only 46 days ago and have had now twice electrical failures both at while driving on freeways about 70-75 miles an hour. Every light on my treg went off for a few seconds including the MFI Radio and even the headlights. when everything went back on the xenons did their little wink. Possible 04 problem? Going to take it to my dealership on monday.
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Car is driven seldom. Less than 1000 mpy. Initially, it will start on first turn of key. After driving for an hour or so and then letting the car sit and cool down for an hour or so it is very difficult to start. It seems as if pumping the gas finally works but not sure this is making it start or just constantly turning it over is the reason. One individual thinks it's ignition wires that are carbonized and need to be replaced????
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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My 2007 F150 Crew Cab Drivers door moves in and out wile driving, also it sounds like I can hear the outside air coming in. I checked the rubber weatherstrips and all seem to be in tact.
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Is it just me or does the shape of the is-f make it really hard to enjoy driving with your windows down after 20mph? Strong wind in your face, loud buffeting in your ears. Opening all 4 windows better but it's still one of the worst vehicles to drive with the windows down I've ever driven...
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