IS F (2008-2014) :: Total Shut Down - Brake Pedal Locked Up
Oct 20, 2014
Upon start up my car totally shutdown and reset itself. While the car was shut down the brake pedal locked up and the car would not start it was completely dead.
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I went to start my car this morning after not driving it for about three days and nothing happened when I pushed the start button. So I double checked to make sure it was in park, had my foot on the brake and again the car wouldn't start. The only thing that would happen is it would engage the accessories same as if I pushed the start button without having my foot on the brake pedal. I did notice that the brake pedal felt unusually hard as in, it would not depress more than a few millimeters. I decided to push on the brake pedal with considerable amount of force which resulted in it depressing maybe a few millimeters more. Then when I pushed the start button the car started up and the braked pedal sank a few inches like normal when the car first starts up. Everything was normal after this. Made a few pit stops on the way to work and the brakes felt fine and the car started perfectly normally.
I have had the car for only a week and a half. It's a 2012 isf.
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When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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Starting here to ask first but I currently have the CEL and VSC light both lit and 1st gear is locked out. What is causing this without having the codes read yet? Is it common to get both of these lights simultaneously? Having 1st gear locked out seems very concerning from a mechanical aspect to me, should I have it parked till I get it serviced?
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Experienced a weird clicking sound when the steering wheel is fully locked either left or right, when turning at low speeds? Its more of a pop than click. No issues driving straight, or in regular turns, just when fully extended.
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I want too hook up a switch to shut my headlights and brake lights off. I want to hook into the ground side. How big of a switch I need to use. I don't want them on when I am hunting.
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Getting a clunk feel and sound while pressing the brake pedal? If I press harder, another clunk or two occurs. Felt and hear especially at low speed or stopped. No issues braking, but the clunk has slowly gotten worse since I dropped the car on RSR Downs which could be a coincidence.
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I just purchased a 2011 F-150 XTR and i noticed the pedals very close to me and i know it does not have electric positioning and it appears that looking at it, it can be adjusted manually..
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Last night I noticed when I got out of the car my drivers side headlight was off while my passenger side light stayed on for about 20 more seconds.
At first I thought I just needed a new bulb, but tonight I saw both headlights are working when the car is on or when I turn the headlights on manually, but when I shut the car off the drivers side goes off immediately and the passenger side turns off in about 20 seconds.
I really like my auto-off after a little bit instead of it turning off immediately.
I haven't changed anything recently. Other than that I can't see any other problems. I swapped out my 08 headlights for 2014 headlights about a year ago and haven't had any problems.
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I have a 2014 RX350 and the brake pedal rattles when I use it. It seems to be loose at the pivot point way up under that dash but I can't get to it. It seems to have excessive movement side to side otherwise it works as it should.
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I have a 2015 IS250 F Sport with brakes that squeak. First time dealer said can't replicate and suggested hard braking to burn off any residue on rotors. Second time, dealer replace rear brake calipers which resulted in mix match colors of the brake caliper and bracket. Not happy.
Well it's starting to squeak again. Not sure if moisture and or cold has anything to do with it. Washed the car yesterday and as I was moving it down the driveway (small incline) the brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. I was able to replicate this several times yesterday.
This morning brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. Not on an incline driveway today.
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So I purchased my 2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD F-Sport back in October and experienced the following issues:
1. Brake squeal
- seems to occur when reversing out of a parking spot for example, so annoying and extremely loud, makes it sound like my brakes need changing
2. Bluetooth Radio
- there are times where my phone connects to the radio, plays music off my iPhone but then it sounds like the singer is slowly dying i.e.: the type of sound you used to hear when a walkman's batteries would be dying and needed changing. Happens sporadically
3. Gas tank lid on side of car won't close fully
- this happened just this week. I couldn't close my gas lid, no matter what I did. I managed to get it closed today after starting my car, wonder if its related at all to power/engine being on etc?
4. Buzzing in gas pedal resonates through foot
- this one is still driving me insane. Drive my car for 10-15 minutes on the highway and your foot feels like pins/needles from the buzzing sensation from the gas pedal.
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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I have a 2009 F-150 Supercrew. I have noticed that when I am going down a hill and hit a bump with my foot on the brake pedal it depresses and I get a springing sensation from the pedal. It almost feels like I am depressing a spring with my foot and then it comes back to normal ???? Just yesterday I was on an off-ramp of the interstate in a sharp curve and it did it without hitting a bump ???? What is causing this or how to fix it ??
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So I recently bought a 2006 f150 XLT with a 5.4 and of course the previous owner failed to tell me that it has an annoying beeping problem. It chimes 25 times total about every 20 minutes of the truck running, I've read the owners manual and found that it could possibly have to do with the passenger air bag.
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2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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My 2004 F 150 the rubber piece that goes on my brake pedal keeps on falling off after I put it back on looked it over today and did notice it does have a good size tear in one of the corners....Can I get a replacement one of these? all I need is the rubber that goes on the pedal....Would I have to go to the dealer for it?
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What would cause the brakes on my wife's truck to be stiff and not hold?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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