IS F (2008-2014) :: Tire Grinding Or Shuffling At Low Parking Lot Speed?
Feb 29, 2016
It's like a tire grinding or shuffling at low parking lot speed, hard right or left turn, more evident when slowly braking during the turn. Dealership claims the negative camber contributes to this phenomenon and that nothing can be done about it.
I realize we have about a 1.5-degree negative camber in 2011-and on IS-F (I have no mods and still running with stock Potenza RE-050s), perhaps this contributes to the feel of the tires at parking speeds.
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I have a 2011 Super Crew, 5.0, 4x2. I've been told this hard shift at low RPM and speed like idling through a parking lot is normal? We bought the truck used a few months ago and I've been told this is normal.
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Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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I was recently experiencing problems with my front brakes. It sounded like it was grinding on something (it doesn't screech) whenever the speed reaches below 15 mph. I called up my dealer to take a look and upon investigation they told me that i needed to do the front brakes job but they could save the rotor (they charged me around $300). Is this common ? It is a daily driven car and i mostly drive on highways. I drive the 2014 RWD IS-350 F-sport model and just recently hit 17.8K miles.
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So yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
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I was wondering if there is any way to easily adjust the parking brake so it bites tighter. I took it to Lexus of Pohanka and they told me that it's normal in a Lexus car to have to press the parking brake all the way to the carpet to get it to engage. I immediately debunked this when I recieved a loaner and engaged the parking brake and it grabs a lot sooner.
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How to reset the low tire Sensor for my ISF ....
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My windows does not all go down when I hold unlock on my fob and how can I change setting for the car not to unlock when putting in park and when opening the door manually all inside locks would open too. My 2011 didn't have a manual.
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I am lowered on KW V3's, running Figs lower control arm bushings with toe set to 0 for alignment just to be safe. Before upgrading to the Figs CAB's, I had the usual inner tire wear on both fronts. I then set the alignment to the safer toe=0 and it got better but still not perfect, so we installed the Figs bushings which made things great.
In the last 20k miles, something is off. My LF tire (Michelin Pilot Super Sport) easily lasted the 20K miles with very even wear. But I've gone through 2 RF tires, with the same outcome. After about 8-10K miles, the inner edge of the sidewall is so worn that the tire has physically separated. If you see the pic below, there is significant tire failure. Same issue, 2 tires on the same side.
Now, if this was happening on both sides, I would assume it's the normal ISF inner tire wear issue. But since we upgraded the CAB's, still have toe set to 0 and the LF is wearing perfectly, something else must be off. A check of all the main suspension points shows all bushings to be ok. The car has never been in a wreck and you can see the alignment specs below appear ok. Tire appears choppy, like a toe issue but the Figs bushing appears fine.
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This weekend was the first cold weekend we have had and I did not get to take the F out, this morning on the ride in to work my low tire presser light came on. I will check the pressers this afternoon when I leave work but but could it be just due to the weather? also how do you reset the light?
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I'm looking to buy an ISF and now I'm reading about the 2IS chassis suffering from front inner tire wear with many attributing it to the soft LCA bushing (see FIG fix) and the factory alignment. Most of the reports seem to be focused on the 2008-2010 ISFs and I see little about 2011+ owners reporting this issue. It's my understanding that the 2011+ front springs are slightly taller/higher and a different rate. Did this possibility (inadvertently) correct the front inner tire wear issue?
I had a 2003 G35 and front inner tire wear plagued that car too and it was annoying and no real fix available. It had the same exact suspension setup on ALL components. We didn't smoke through the inner rubber tread, but rather it feathered like and if you didn't stay on top of it, your G/Z would sound and feel like a dump truck after about 10-15K miles because of the feathering.
I'm looking at 2012-2014 ISFs and I would check and correct the alignment if necessary. I know FIG makes a replacement bushing, but it's urethane and after about 20 years of modding cars, I've learned that urethane is best left to race cars. After about 5K miles, urethane needs regreasing and almost always leads to squeaking/clunking as the urethane loosens up after a year or two.
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Just did a brake job on my IS-F. Everything went smoothly for 50 miles, then as I'm pulling into the driveway I hear a horrible grinding from the front.
Disassembled everything this morning and it looks like the pads are in constant contact with the rotor. Is there a set screw I missed? When I did the brake job, I retracted the pistons slightly with a C-clamp, and did not bleed the brakes. What am I missing?
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So I've been finding myself lately having to press the ebrake pedal pretty deep when parking on a non leveled surface. Went to the dealer and they said this car has self adjusting parking brake........ Is this true? Do I have to suck it up? If no, how do I adjust either the pedal or the parking brake bands?
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I was just driving home and noticed and sort of slapping sound from my rear left tire - I pulled over at a gas station to take a look at it and found no issues with the tire itself (bubbles/flat spots) or any irregular wear, my next best guess is that the wheel bearing has gone bad, is there a way i can test this for the rear wheels without putting it on a lift?
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So due to a puncture I got earlier this week, I had to buy a new front passenger side right tire. Now the car pulls very slightly to the right. Is this due to having about 6k miles on the left tire and a brand new right tire or do I need an alignment again?
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LS F idle at without the AC on, mine is about 500 rpm, which seems low to me, if AC is on it feels about right 750 to 800 rpm.
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So I was driving in a busy part of town today with a lot of stop and go traffic. Then this previous previous generation E class pulled up next to me and started reving it, his exhaust sounds aftermarket. I am the kind of guy that never race or drive fast on the streets, so I just ignore him. Then when it's green he pulled ahead and maintain at 30 mph or so, when I caught up he started reving again. He had his emblems shaved so I cant tell which model it was
So I was like what the hell...if he is a E350 or E500 he stands no chance, and if he is a E55 AMG the worse case it will be a close match. Different story if he is a E63, but it didnt sound like one. Since I was cruising in AUTO before, I must be at 5th or 6th. So I went into Manual, press the sport button and start downshifting......it took forever.....I was literally just waiting for it to go to 2nd before slamming on the gas...since the street in front of us is running out of room and will reach another red soon. Before I could get to 2nd, he already took off after cruising with me for a bit. When I finally got to 2nd and the engine growl started, I flew past him and let him hear the borla but we already hit the red...he turned right. I just thought I missed the fun.....
It was a hot day in LA...so the engine oil is well warmed up. And since we have so many gears, I often times find downshift sluggish and esp it cant skip gears..it has to go in sequentially. I have little to complain about the upshifts, but downshift..am I missing something here? How to speed up the downshift?I think dual clutch is way faster in both up and down....
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I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
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Is it normal to have variable fan speeds when Ac is on? I understand on WOT Ac deactivates on some cars but when it happens I'm just cruising along coming to a stop, the fan speed increases.
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Under acceleration when close to the limit of adhesion during high speed long sweeping turns I was noticing an oil smell last year. I can't say if it was R, L or both turning directions since its been a full winter since I have driven the car.
I'm using Mobile 1 5w30, a stock air box and I have headers. I'm also running 305 PSS tires, and a pretty well modified suspension. I have no facts to back this up but I am assuming because of my setup that I can get a little more lateral acceleration then most.
I have zero oil consumption, no leaks and good test results from Blackstone. My only thought is that I am pushing a little oil in to the crank case breathers during this hard cornering.
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