IS F (2008-2014) :: Steering Is Squirmy Under Heavy Braking
Apr 4, 2016
I've owned my IS F for a little over two weeks now, and I have noticed under several occasions under heavy breaking (close to 70-80% breaking capacity) that I have to fight the steering wheel to keep the car tracking straight. This is anywhere from speeds of 80-90 mph coming down to 40-50 mph. Could this be an issue related to the front control arm bushings? My F only has ~41,xxx miles and tires are brand new (OEM Spec) Continental ExtremeContact DWS. No other alignment issues known as the car doesn't track left or right either.
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Under heavy braking, both of my ISF's experience a repeated "thunking." Brakes are fine, rotors aren't warped, and you don't feel anything through the pedal. Rather, it's felt through the floorboard. I bought upgraded LCA bushings, thinking this would solve it, but it persists.
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2007 SF SE 3.3, approaching 60,000 miles. I'm feeling a front steering wheel shimmy on "heavy" braking, as in a recent trip into the Adirondack mountains with twisty roads.
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I've got an '06 F150 and the steering isn't right with it. It has had a heavy feel and is almost like the power assist is only working half as good as it should. It's been like this for a couple months. I 've had all four ball joints and the steering rack replaced in the last month. It had the heavy steering feel before and after everything was replaced. It also doesn't recover itself on sharp turns, I have to turn the wheel back as I complete the turn. Could it be the power steering pump? I thought it was a mechanical device and it either worked or it didn't, maybe they get weak?
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Just bought this '08 F250 CCSB 4X4 5.4 Problem is the steering seems heavy, it tends to wander at higher speeds and won't return to center after a turn. I've searched on here and found a few possibilities (axle u joints, ball joints, steering gear, etc). I have an appointment with the dealer on Friday to fix it under warranty but he is convinced it's the u joints in the steering shaft seizing. When my F150 steering shaft began to seize, it would be hard to turn then break free then be hard then break free and this is not what is happening on the SD. I haven't had a chance to check the front end myself but not sure how you would check the axle u joints if there was no play in them. How would you check to see if they were seizing up.
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I got my 2011 ISF with 17k miles. About a month ago it started to make noise under light braking. No noise under heavy braking. I know the ISF go through brake and tires like crazy but at 18k miles?
What pads and rotors are recommended for a new set?
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While braking at very low spreads (towards the end of a stop), I get squeaking with light pressure braking. Then, yesterday it finally drove me insane. It was a lot louder than normal. Only thing different was that it was alot hotter than usual. It would squeak, as I lift off the brake lightly (while still applying pressure) to inch the car forward in traffic. I had always noticed a faint squeaking, but its now louder than what I grew accustomed to.
The dealership who installed my brakes 9800 miles ago, says there was a glazing, And they can't fix it (polish), because it's drilled rotors.
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my truck has been acting kind of funny for the past 2 days. my RPM's are not as high as they usuaully are and my battery volt is 14.2 watts and when i hit the brakes and turn it drops down to 12.5. when that happens my battery light turns on, steering wheel tightens up and truck slows down. the only way to get my truck running after that is turning it off and starting it up again. What might be wrong or had the same problems?
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I have noticed the last 3 times I hit the brakes really hard above 100 mph ( even 120 mph) I hear a whirling noise coming from either the front brakes or tires. Kind of sounds like when you have really old summer tires on the car and you make a stop on the street . I have heard this on the track the last 2 track days I had. I know my front tires (Michelin PSS) are about 40% worn but are still in pretty good shape.
My rotors are the same that carried me through 6 track days in 10 months and was recently told by the dealership that my front pads need to be replaced sooner than later ( they were installed 10 months ago before all the track work ) and I am assuming the rotors are beat up pretty goo . I will be getting new tires in the next few months and will most likely be replacing pads and rotors at the next scheduled service. The car has 34k on it. Is this normal with Brembos or aggressive brakes?
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I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
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My 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
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I've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
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About a month back my wife and I were on our way home from dinner and when we exited the interstate I heard an awful rubbing sound coming from the engine compartment. I wasn't quite sure what it was or how to describe it. I was concerned it was the timing belt right away. I limped it home sputtering and misfiring and listened for a moment before shutting it down.
The next day I checked all the accessories. Nothing wrong there, so I realized it must have been the timing belt. I began striping the rest down and confronted carnage. One of the bearings had gone on an idler pulley and the gear was riding the bolt. the belt had moved out of position and began to cut into the backside of the plastic cover. By some miracle it hadn't completely snapped or jumped timing.
I replaced all pulleys, the tensioner, the water pump, and the belt. After my buddy and I got it back together it seemed fine aside from a slightly rough-ish idle for a day or two, but then the misfire got quite bad. I chugged it up to my wife's parent's place. We borrowed a car from them, and then I went into repair mode again. I reasoned that perhaps the plugs had fouled when the belt was messed up initially, so I replaced the plugs. Didn't have wires on hand. Fired it back up. No bueno. Same misfire and chugging. Still borderline driveable.
So, I tore down the belt again to find that the intake cam on the passenger side was about 5 teeth off. Seemed further out than my friend and I would have left it, but I got it lined back up within a tooth and put it back together. Still no good. Still misfiring. So we tried it a couple more times. One of us started to doubt the cause, but I talked him to try with one more reset. This time I wanted to get everything absolutely perfectly lined up. We did. I fired it up. Silky smooth, ran like a sewing machine. Put it back together and everything seemed fine. For a day or two.
The misfiring began again. It bothered me that I hadn't managed to take care of the plug wires. I had the codes pulled and I had a steady misfire on ... I think it was 4. I replaced the wires on that side and everything was back to normal. Silky smooth operation. For a couple days.
I was on my way to work and had to brake very hard to avoid an accident. Like from 70 to 0 wheel-lockingly hard. Immediately a misfire at idle returned. Doesn't seem to be an issue when not at idle, but it's hard to say. I guessed that it was the plug wires from the other side. I replaced those today, gave it an oil change. Still misfiring. I dropped by autozone. Codes read - misfire everywhere but 3, and I'm guessing that maybe a sensor for 3 is just messed up. The coil pack looked suspect, and I thought I'd do the PCV valve while I was at it. After replacing both the misfires continue.
I've yanked the battery to encourage the computer to reset. I'm at a loss at the moment. The only think I can guess is that perhaps my new tensioner is poop and I've jumped a tooth or two somewhere? I'm looking for guesses and wild theories here. Anything to try. I'm going to reconnect the battery shortly and if it's still misfiring, which I'm assuming it will be, I'm going to have codes pulled again.
Just to head this one off at the pass - I believe I got extremely lucky and did not damage the valves with the timing belt nonsense. Compression seems good, and I doubt it would have ran as well as it did as long as it did with valve damage.
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Non mechanical squeaking noise coming from rear passenger side cabin area. Only appears to happen under 75 percent or so acceleration and slightly heavy braking. Sounds like an electrical squeal intermittent under the above conditions.
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Last week during some more aggressive driving i got a noise out of the front suspension area and immediately noticed the car had a much looser steering feel, I garaged the car for the week until i could take it into Lexus this weekend. However lexus couldn't find anything wrong with it, they found no codes in the steering system and no worn-out/broken parts in need of replacing yet it still has this vague steering feel to it even after I replaced the tires (245 front 275 rear PSS). What could cause this after they ruled out power steering systems AND suspension? It is still present on new PSS tires as well.
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I've had 2 issues with my 08 ISF. The first is when in manual mode and taking off hard in first my power steering light will come on and I will lose power steering, but when I park the vehicle and restart it the light goes away and the power steering works fine. This has happened twice. This has happened twice.
The second issue(I don't know if it's related) is that 3 times now I would go to crank my vehicle and it would click and not start as if it were dead. I would get out of the car and wait a minute and get back in and it will start up with no issues but the navigation would reload and the clock is a different time as if the battery was dead.
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Electric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
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Having problem after installing 15mm spacers. Cleaned the hub with sandpaper and re-torqued but still getting somewhat wobbling on flat roads.
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I just put on headers and after running into the infamous rattle sound I found an additional issue. The steering linkage seems to be rubbing or binding on right hand turns. Any normal 90 degree right hand turn will prevent me from taking the wheel beyond a certain point. I have had to make wide swooping turns. I feel the steering wheel stop further progress turning to the right and it gets a heavy rattle feel in the steering wheel.
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Just bought Camry 2011 XLE /37.500 Miles.
When driving this first day everything ran very smooth and very light. After I took it to get State Inspections and Emissions, for the last couple days, the car has been feeling somewhat heavier. I ran it by the shop I went to and they test drove it and said it was fine. The steering seems to be a bit heavy no when I turn. The wheel doesn't set back smoothly at all/stays stuck. The car doesn't seem to run as "light anymore" The wheel feels very heavy/dragging at times when steering from right to left.
I heard that spraying Tri-Flow lube with teflon on the Universal (U-Joint)/steering column will work wonders in making it smoother.
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Recently had superpro Lca, koni yellows, Pilot super sports and a solid alignment done.
Over the last 2 days it seems that my steering that felt very light after the superpros were installed, has become very sluggish and heavy. There is a bit of "heavy" play in the wheel as well which under the same effort after putting on the PSS, would have tossed me around playfully.
One piece of info I should include is that I took her on a windy road pretty hard on Saturday. Tight hairpin turns that last a couple miles but I ran it 3 times.
Would running her hard though turns make the steering become dead? Is my power steering fluid in need of a change?
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