IS F (2008-2014) :: Slow Leak In Tires / Air Loosing
Mar 5, 2015
A few months ago I developed a slow leak in my drivers front tire. I took it to a local tire shop and they told me small sections of paint on the inner part of the rim that sits on the bead of the tire was corroding and flaking off causing a small air leak. They sanded it down and resealed the paint and it stopped the leak. I asked them if it happened to this rim, could it happen to all of my rims? They couldn't answer that, but now I think I know the answer. 2 of my other wheels now are losing air and I bet it's the same problem. Is there a recall of some kind? Dealer says since my car is out of warranty, they can't do anything.
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I am aware that cold weather will decrease your tire pressure, but what is throwing me off is how quickly my rear tires seems to be losing pressure?
I park outside overnight, and it gets down to about 25 degrees F here at night. My front tires I run at about 38-40 PSI, and I JUST filled the rears up on Saturday to the same. I start my car this morning and both my rear tires are sitting at 30 PSI. This has happened ever since the dealer took my my wheels to refinish the rims about a month ago. Is there something they could have done that would be causing this? The can't think of a reason as to why the front tires are fine and the rear keep loosing pressure.
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I have a slow leak in one of my tires. Loses maybe 1 PSI per day. I've taken the tire off, washed it, examined it closely, used dishwashing soap (to look for bubbles) and cannot find the leak. Even paid close attention to the valve.
So now I'm thinking of using of those cans of sealant, but I'm afraid of damaging the tire pressure sensor.
FWIW, the tires have about 13K miles on them.
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I have a 2006 F-150 XL with the 4.2 V6, auto that has a slow coolant leak that I cannot find.
I bought the truck this spring, 190K, drives good, but it leaks coolant. I have added probably 3 gallons of water this summer, this does not bode well for winter.
I can't see any wet spots or steam, but do smell anti-freeze occasionally from outside the cab.
I don't really want to try easter-egging the repair (replacing things that might fix it).
How to find the leak? Or should I just use some form of stop leak.
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2008 Highlander - super slow coolant leak. Dealer can't find it via pressure test. Never trips sensor, but after 6 months or so, the heater doesn't work well unless turning to the left. Has happened since new, but now Just out of warranty. Dealer has recorded two pressure tests and leak, but I'm wondering what to do.
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After installing BC Racing Coilover + Swift Spring which is lower than stock.. I've lowered the front another 1/2 inch.. Now going over moderate bump the tires are hitting the top of fender liner. I have tried to use heat gun and pushed the fender a little more up without success. If it involves removing the top fender liner..
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I have 245 35 20 on the front (lowered 1 inch on Tein Springs) and 275 30 20 (10.5 inch wide) on rear. The front tires are worn extremely bad and showing cord on the insides. The rears are worn on the Insides and middle but not as bad.
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I started loosing a bunch of coolant on my tdi which is still under 36k and there is no visible leaks anywhere
Took the car to the dealer last night to get it checked out and they were ready to send me back home telling me there is no issue since they don't see any leaks under the car
Either way after telling them that I have already gone through 2 gallons of coolant they decided to top off the coolant and ask me to drive 200 miles.
I drove 156 miles last night since I need to get this issue resolved and now the coolant tank is empty again... sitting at the dealer while I'm typing this.
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I recently traded in my 2013 Audi TTRS in a very limited edition color. For my 2008 Lexus ISF... With 71k Miles. And I feel as if the car is very sluggish and up shifts are slow even with sport mode on! My buddy has an ISF as well and he even said mine shifts slower than his. I was wondering if maybe the previous owner skipped a few key maintainence things to cause such an issue. And yes I know how to drive a care, yes it's in sport mode and yes the vehicle is warmed prior to stupidity. The last recorded maintenance was at 60K miles.
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Just like the tittle says. My 2011 ISF with 56k miles on it is making a Clunking noise when pulling out of a parking spot or just anytime I fully steer to the left side and begin to move. If I try it in reverse it doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel fully to left or right it makes the same noise as I begin to move at slow speed. It almost feels like something is pushing the front wheels out. During normal driving I don't feel anything at all, just as steady as solid the car can be.
Is there any common issues with ISF with premature wear of ball joints, cv joint, sway bar bushings or hub bearing?
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I have a 2008 Phaeton 3.0TDI, a couple of weeks ago i had a problem with the car it kept loosing the memory for the keys then then boot wouldn't open then the starter battery went down etc etc... I found this to be the fuse for the starter battery, Replaced that and the car was good as gold, However since then i now have no sound on the radio when pressing sound it comes up with DSP system not available the sat nav comes up with the same not available as does the phone and the parking sensors work but no sound.,etc,
I took the car into my not very supportive VW dealer who spent 2 hours just to tell me they didn't know what was wrong and could cost a lot of money for them to find out what was.... they had no intention of doing this even if i had said yes go ahead. I have not put it into a good electrician and car audio specialist who spend half the day just to say they do not know 100% what is wrong with it... they have suggested i replace the amp.... is this a problem others have faced before I go putting more time and money into this blind...
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We have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
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Our 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
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Van has 144k miles on it. It's been well maintained (see my other posts). I have had it since new (7 miles). The LIM was done preventively at about 75k miles (5 years ago).
Two to three years ago it started using/leaking etc coolant at a very slow rate. I would estimate somewhere in the 8-10 fl oz per 3-4 month range. As time has gone on it has been progressively using more. Now it is about 12-14 fl oz in about a month or 6 weeks. My "low coolant" indicator came on the other night. It had been a while since I added any coolant mix. 3-4 months anyway. It took about 1/2 gallon (US). There has been no "real" visible leak,up to now. I noticed yesterday when I was under it doing an oil change, that there was a "film" on the bottom of the trans pan. I followed the trail as best I could and it led me to the rear of the engine near the drivers front wheel. It was a small drop of coolant. (I tasted it). Don't try this at home... From the top of the engine looking in, I followed the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing "pipe". It is very difficult to see in there. I took a few pix. [URL] ....
It looks like there is a little pool of coolant sitting near or under the thermostat housing that pools on top of where the transaxle bell housing meets the engine block. It's very hard to to see in the pix. Some of what looks to be damp, is actually shadow. This pool I believe runs down the back of the engine/trans, and then is blown on top the trans pan and undercarriage.
The van runs great, I want to keep it for the next 9 years. There is no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Unless the fix is fairly easy, the leak is still small enough that I am not going to bother with it until it becomes a large leak. The car runs cool even in the hot summer pulling a load. The only issue is the leak and that I have to add coolant every once in a while.
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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A while ago I got my oil changed at a Midas location and it was not for a couple months later when I got my oil changed again that Midas cross threaded the oil plug. So now I've got a slow leak and I was told that I'm going to have to replace the oil pan the next time I get an oil change.
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My wife has a 2006 Touareg V6.
Noticed a coolant leak a week ago, refilled with coolant, and as of today the coolant warning has not come back, so whatever it is must be a very slow leak. Today I took the opportunity with the unseasonable warmth in Chicagoland to investigate.
Got the T-reg up on jacks and belly pan removed, ran the engine while inspecting the bay, didn't see anything.
After I shut the engine off, however, I noticed a small but somewhat steady dripping coming from roughly the middle of the front of the engine block.
Pulled the plastic cover off one of the pulleys, part # reads: 022 121 341. I couldn't find a match anywhere online, but I got tons of results for 022 121 011, which is the water pump.
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I found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
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I have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
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My son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
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I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
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