IS F (2008-2014) :: Slight Stutter At Idle When Stopped At A Light
May 4, 2016
I'm new to owning an ISF. I purchased it almost two months ago and couldn't be more happy with it. I know after owning a car you will start to notice more and more about the car. About a month into owning the car I was on my way to work and I stopped at a light. I noticed that there was a very slight shutter at idle. No where near the shutter if it was missing on a spark plug. After that day it has drawn my attention whenever I stop.
My question is is this normal? I know having a V8 in the car there is going to be some vibration. It's a 2009 with 29k.
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So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?
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I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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I have a 2002 VW Beetle 1.8L Turbo with over 120k miles. Recently it started idly roughly on occasion and had a slight rattling noise but only when stopped. When it was driving, it felt fine. This went on for about a week and then one day about a week ago it started for about 10 seconds and then stalled. Since then it will turn over, but not start. We've checked the starter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and ignition coils and have replaced the crankshaft sensor (which was what I found on VW sites as saying it often solved problems like mine). The battery is new. Part of what I saw when researching was in addition to what is currently happening other owners had a long term issue with the car bogging down once in awhile at high speeds (50 mph+) for a few seconds and then picking back up again. My car did this as well and that's why I thought the crankshaft sensor may be the issue.
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I had the transmission filter and fluid changed at the local VW dealership had some issues with that but they straightened that out and its been fine for a while well then about 2 or 3 weeks ago i was trying to mess with an audi and hit the gas (has the 6 speed auto tranny) and the car kinda stuttered and the check engine light flashed probably 4 or 5 times then went off, it did that a few times after that then my wife was driving it and it did that stutter again and the light stayed on, the code said misfire on cylinder 2..
So I replaced the plugs today and it did fine at first but when i got to about 55-60 and went to speed up and it started to miss pretty bad then steadied out and sped up. no check engine light or anything but it was missing.
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I have noticed a slight stutter in the acceleration when pushing it hard. Seems to be most noticeable 4th gear around 4500-5500 rpm. Is that because I dont have a HPFP? I also notice the fluttery whistle sound that was discussed at length in another thread...doesn't bother me one bit but it seems to coincide the stuttery acceleration. Also, I noticed it upon the very first drive after getting flashed - currently at 2500km.
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I have a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 6.2 and it has a slight miss at idle. It's done this since new and over the 20kms it has now I've been given the round around on it from 2 different dealers. I'm told there is no code so they can't do anything. I'm thinking maybe a coil? Or perhaps injector?
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I'm not sure if this is normal, but I have noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel. This happens when the engine is completely warmed up and If I'm sitting at a complete stop in drive (no air conditioning, seat warmers, or headlights on) it happens. It is not a vibration where the idle goes up and down. The rpm gauge shows that it is between a consistent 550-600 rpms. When the headlights or air is on, the idle goes to around 700-750 and the steering wheel vibrations go away. I do not have any cel on and I know the car is not miss firing. I think it's just because the low idle.
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I have a 2008 focus and at about 15000 miles started having a slight vibration at idle. Its idling at about 700rpm is that normal? It more annoying than anything. Took it to Ford and they just say its normal. What the problem could be? Should I replace the plugs?
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I bought a 2009 f150 5.4 with 150000 miles on it. I have a slight hesitation from idle so I want to clean the throttle body. I found several for the older f150"s with the horizontal throttle body but this 2009 has a vertical mounted one. I change the air filter and cleaned the MAF but didn't change anything. My wife's ford 500 had this problem and cleaning the throttle body completely cured it.
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I just picked up a Sport. I've noticed 1,2 quick stutter type thing happening intermittently at highway speed going up a hill. Dealer service probably won't be able to have it happen as it only has happened 3 times in my 400 miles.
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98k miles and if the car is on a slight incline and your backing up or creeping forward it feels like you are going over a rumble strip. that slight stuttering feeling. no codes have tripped. I've asked the toyota dealership and they don't know what could be the problem. The trans axle fluid was changed at 88k and from what i was told there were no metal shavings in the fluid. it was a little dark but after going 88k miles i assume it would be.
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I just bought a 2008 Elantra SE with 26K miles. So far, I've really enjoyed it, except for, at times, it does vibrate somewhat during idle.
I took it to the nearest Hyundai dealer, and they clipped the throttle cables to the inside of the firewall. This did make some improvement, but I still feel vibration during idle when the engine is warm (doesn't seem to as long as RPMs are up). It's almost as if the idle is set a little too low.
Maybe this is just normal vibration? It's not too bad, just noticeable. Can idle in these cars be adjusted? It seems the car is too new to have clogged fuel injectors. Everything else about driving it feels great, acceleration, etc. Do you think using a higher octane gas would work?
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5.0L ... I'm having one of those moments, you know after you do a mod to your truck and all of a sudden you notice something about your truck that could have been there all along but now you notice it as something new? Ok earlier in the week I had my exhaust resonator removed and replaced with a straight-pipe by a reputable exhaust shop. IMO the work looks to be pretty good for what it is.
That said I have always been nervous about getting exhaust work on any vehicle because it always seems like tampering with or removing the OEM plumbing for aftermarket or custom work tends to develop a vibration at some point.
So here is what I've noticed over the last couple days, when driving my truck it is extremely smooth, almost like glass. When I come to a complete stop say at a traffic light about 1-2 seconds after making the complete stop I feel this slight harmonic vibration in the steering wheel. For those of you that have an iphone it would be like having your phone bolted to the steering shaft somewhere and it on constant vibration if that makes sense.
Just to prove it only happens when I'm sitting still and idling in (D)rive I sat in my driveway with the truck idling, set the park brake and released the brake pedal holding the truck in place in (D)rive with the parking brake. No vibration, smooth as glass engine idle, as soon as I put my foot back on the brake pedal the vibration comes back. It's as if the extra draw of applying the brakes puts an extra load on some sort of accesory drive or componant under the hood and the result is this harmonic vibration.
Just so everyone knows, the vibration is very noticeable to me because I drive the truck daily, most people wouldn't pick it out if I didn't tell them first. Case in point if my wife drives the truck she can't feel it unless I tell her what to look for. There are going to be some of you that just say my truck doesn't do this and has had a smooth idle for XX,XXX miles I believe you but let me know now that I have explained exactly what to look for. Like I said for all I know it's done this since day one.
I have a feeling that the straight pipe might have been welded in slightly longer than the oem section that was removed thus putting more tention on the exhaust and engine if that makes sense, the end result being a slight vibration?? I know that manufactures put these little rubber bushings along the exhaust system on cars/ truck to absorb harmonic vibrations and for all I know my resonator might have been designed to balance out harmonic vibes in the exhaust system as well as quiet down the exhaust.
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2000 Hyundai Accent GS, 1.5l, 4cyl SOHC...
I have a slight issue. A few weeks ago, I put some "STP" style fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank. Either A) It cleaned everything really well and clogged my injectors, or it turned into gunk and possibly clogged something else up.
Ever since that day, my issue is that the car "stutters" very slightly. When idling, it'll "hiccup." When I'm doing normal driving, 55-60mph at 2k RPM, It'll almost feel like a transmission slip.
I've went and replaced my Fuel pump, filter, and now I've done half a can of seafoam through the brake line power booster (vaccuum) straight into the engine, and the other half into my oil for further cleaning. I also applied Seafoam Deep Creep into my throttle body, just for further maintenance.
Ever since then, everything has been running noticeably better, and I've had a huge increase in gas mileage, but there's still a slight hiccup that occurs during idle and driving.
I change the oil /filter, plugs, wires, air filter on a regular basis.
I also had to change the MAF at one point in time, as it died and the car wouldn't start at all.
Next thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the plugs / wires one more time (it's been about 5 months since my last change) just to see if I bought a faulty plug.
The car was put on a computer and the only error code that came up was one about my check engine light being out.
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My 2003 Aviator kind of stutters when in auto between gears. Most prevalent from 3 to D when driving regular. If I shift manually and tach it to 4k there is no stutter/vibration. My engine light is on and pretty sure the catalytic converter need to be changed. All new NKG plugs and associated coils. Throttle body clean, 91+ fuel only. Could this me a tranny starting to fail or computer/senor related? No other codes than the bank-2 O2 sensor....
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So I believe I have a crack in the Exhaust Manifold... When I rev the car I can hear a slight tick. I had taken it to a shop to do a muffler delete and said that there may be a leak or crack somewhere. The tech said it wasn't too bad but it may be something to keep an eye on. My question is, what would be the best route to go? Is this a common issue with the ISF? I was thinking if it was also possible if it may just be the gasket, which the tech also said it could be. I have a 2008 model with about 113k miles on it.
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My isf for couple months now and love the car. I have an 08 which only 7k miles on it. Lets say at a stop I start to accelerate, I notice a slight hesitation before it picks up around 1-1.5 rpms. Under hard acceleration I don't notice it, but with nice and easy acceleration that slight hesitation is kinda annoying. Not sure since car has such low miles on it if I need to run fuel injection cleaner or something, of if something else could be wrong. I kinda mention it to the lexus service manager and he said something that next time I bring the car in that he'll let the mechanic do a tranny ecu update of some sort? I didn't know that there was such a thing.
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I just purchased a 2008 passat, 2.0T 6spd manual last night and I noticed today, when sitting at a stop sign it has slight idle issues, (goes up about 200-400rpms) then back down to normal idle. Doesn't seem to be causing any issues, its just pretty annoying, and everyone next to me thinks I'm trying to race them.
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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