IS F (2008-2014) :: Oil Dipstick Will Not Come Out?
Jun 8, 2015
Dealership said the only thing they did was change the oil on the car before they put it up for sale. Yesterday when I went to take my wife and kids out for their first drive in the F. I popped the hood and told her that I wanted to check the oil level before we left, she was watching as I went to pull the dipstick and it wouldn't come out! I tried to twist it and pull hard but it wouldn't budge? I'd didn't want to pull too hard as I didn't want to break the top off, but am at a loss as to why it would be stuck like that? Is there some special way to take the dipstick out that I'm doing wrong here? Or could they have shoved it in too far? Guess I have to deal with my first issue with the car...
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I've done 3 oil changes since picking up my 2012 Lariat 5.0 a little over a year ago. And I've always questioned the accuracy of the oil dipstick - seemed to always read 'low'.
I just changed oil tonight (Motorcraft 5w-20 semi-synthetic), and I measured the oil that I drained out - just about right at 8 qts. I put in 7 qts and 24 oz (about 1.6 - 2 oz over the 7.7 qts that it calls for) and the oil barely reaches the low level on the dipstick.
I guess between what I drained out and my current oil level reading, my dipstick is not accurate.
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F150 2011 3.5L Ecoboost. Where is the transmission dipstick?
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I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
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I had a 2014 F-250 I bought new. Absolutely loved the truck. Things got tight so I decided to sell it yesterday. I'm now looking at a 2005 F-250 with 113k miles. It's got a lift, 37" tires, DPF delete, pretty sure the EGR delete but not sure exactly what to look for under the hood. A ton of LED light bars, SCT tuner, I was told its bulletproofed by a dealer, and it's a king ranch. It runs great. I plan on having a diesel mechanic look it over but here are my concerns. It does have a slight bit of blow by coming from dipstick. Very little. Also a slight oil leak that looks like it's coming from the bell housing so maybe rear seal?
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I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick of my '08 RX 350. I just tried after it sat all night and the oil is over the full marks. I just had the oil changed at Lexus and they used my 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and I told them not top it off to 6.5 quarts because I wanted to.
The tech said he did not add more than what I gave him. I just called Lexus and they said, yes it is difficult to get an accurate reading for some reason. He said check when the oil is warm and has sat for 5 minutes. Any others have trouble reading the oil dipstick accurately?
'08 RX 350 Flint mica/ blk 84,000 miles
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We just past 1000 miles on our new 08 2.0T wagon and there is '0' oil consumption. The dipstick reads completely full. And...it is noticeably cleaner than our 06 2.0T after 1000 miles (after oil changes).
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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I have a F-150 5.4 automattic 07 model and I need to add some tranny oil,I can't see on dipstick or in book what oil I need,(4) (5)??? I still can't see any markings on dipstick, where would I see a 4 or 5 on dipstick??
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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I bought a new 2008 ISF back in the day and acquired a 2009 M5 with 6,000 miles late last year.
My ISF has headers, exhaust and throttle control which absolutely changed the car from a Lexus to a contender, consider the mods with the following comparison. I enjoy my M5 a lot, it is my out of town car- drives great at 180, corners well, solid, roomy (being from Vegas I can fit 4 bodies in the trunk)..I can go on about all the positives.
However, the F is faster with the mods, better ergonomics, and has fewer repair issues. It feels like a go cart. It pulls the 5 until it hits the limiter. As there were only 500 or so produced each year.
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I just bought a 2008 IS-F
Anyway, so my check engine light doesn't come on. I know it's supposed to do a bulb check, and after two seconds or so it's supposed to shut off. All my other bulbs check, just no CEL.
So worried, I went to plug in my OBD2 reader, and no power. I tried two different readers on the car, and neither one of them power up. I tried it on my G35, and they both work.
Secondly, there's a Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) on the front passenger side that has three vacuum ports, only two are hooked up.
More importantly is the OBD port, I think my F is in limp mode because when I go to manual mode it won't allow first gear.
However, when I go to rev it up, everything is solid, the car pulls like crazy regardless. The car looks like it had an intake and someone went back to stock, also it's got some kind of exhaust as well.
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Why in the would I keep getting a VSC light on.
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When u set the climate to hot but your only getting cold air ? and it would randomly work and go hot driving me crazy as its getting cold!
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I've owned my 2011 IS-F for a couple of month now. I know the Sport Mode give the car crisper throttle response and it shifts quicker. Does the Sport Mode do anything else?
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Can you lock the IS-F from the outside while its still running? Occasionally I will let the car warmup or idle while I step away from it, and try to lock it with the remote but no luck. Any way to do this?
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I had my car in storage for the winter, pulled it out today.
The one headlamp was dimmer than the other. The other was operating fine.
The dim one went out after a few min. I restarted the car and it came back on dim.
Is this a sign that the bulb is burning out? or something else? What is the usually lifespan on these bulbs?
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LS F idle at without the AC on, mine is about 500 rpm, which seems low to me, if AC is on it feels about right 750 to 800 rpm.
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I read my manual that claims to never change ATF in our transmission as its suppose to be good till 100k... well I have some bad news for everyone. I have a friend who works for Lexus dealership who said he serviced a couple of IS350 and found out that the ATF in those trannys is pitch black and low on levels by 60k.
Starting to dig deeper into this issue I found a thread by a member who had his tranny replaced because original failed possibly due to spoiled and burned out ATF.
So, needless to say I will be changing my automatic Tranny Fluid coming up on 45k and had a question: Does our car have flush lines to do the ATF flush and what is the proper way to do it because I know simply draining it will only get about half out.
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I have only had my 08 F for a few months and it is due for an oil change in about 1K. Today the low engine oil light came on, so I checked it and indeed it was just below the low level on the dipstick. The light came on once before while I was parked on an extreme grade, and the oil level was fine. I have no evidence of any leaks. This doesn't seem as though it would be normal. By the way it took about 1/2 qt to bring it back to normal levels.
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I recently lowered my car and installed some CF side skirts, but when I went to go do an oil change, my floor jack barely fit under the car, and when I started jacking it up, it started applying pressure to my CF sideskirt. I was cringing as I was watching it flex, hoping it wouldn't cause the clear coat to "web".
I ended up finding a couple blocks of wood, and drove up on them to get the car an extra inch higher off the ground, but my CF side skirt was still meeting my floor jack. Those of you who are lowered with side splitters/skirts.
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