IS F (2008-2014) :: Oil Level Higher When Engine Cool?
Jun 6, 2015
So I changed my oil today and added about 9.8 - 9.9 quarts. There was just a little left in the second 5 quart jug. I carefully added some oil while checking the dip stick frequently. I made sure the level was just at (maybe a hair above) the top dot on the dip stick. After that, I went out for a spirited drive.
Now 4 hours later, when the car is relatively cool, I checked the level again. However, the level is now significantly higher than before. It's definitely past the top dot, not by a lot, but definitely more than before.
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I have only had my 08 F for a few months and it is due for an oil change in about 1K. Today the low engine oil light came on, so I checked it and indeed it was just below the low level on the dipstick. The light came on once before while I was parked on an extreme grade, and the oil level was fine. I have no evidence of any leaks. This doesn't seem as though it would be normal. By the way it took about 1/2 qt to bring it back to normal levels.
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I purchased a brand new 2013 Prius 2 last October and I'm loving it so far.
However, I notice that even if it's slightly warm outside, and I have my cabin temp set at a higher temperature than outside, the vent blows cooler air.
For example, the other day it was 65F outside. Since it was warmer than usual, I turned down the cabin temperature to 65F as well. It was nice and cool, but a little TOO cold. So I turned it up to 70F. It was still blowing cold air. I had to turn it up to 72F before it was warm enough to feel comfortable.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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I feel that I press the gas pedal less when the battery is at high level to get to same speed than when the battery is at low level. Is it true? I am operating in Eco mode, but I am staying in ev region with ev indicator on during the comparison. High means 7 bars, low means 3 bars.
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I have begun to notice that when I start my van each morning for the first time that it is reving at a higher RPM then it did back during the winter. During the winter it may have been around 1000rpms at start before lowering down after a few minutes. Now it is starting at about 1500 and then returning down to the lower level after a few minutes of warming up. Could the change in outside temps cause this?
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Well Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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2008 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T... I am trying to figure out whats going on with my car for a few weeks now. I have a few things going on and I am not if they are related.
First off I am hearing a odd noise now and then from my engine area. Its so hard to explain, but its kind of like when a plastic bag gets stuck to your car, a fluttery higher pitched noise (and it lasts only a few seconds). It happens now on heavy acceleration (almost always), normal acceleration and even sometimes at start up. Its mostly random and started awhile back but I use to only hear the sound every couple weeks. Now its daily.
Related or not I also have noticed this really bad lag with heavier acceleration, after lagging it then down shifts VERY hard before taking off.
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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Worked fine yesterday, today no dice. I was hoping it might be a fuse or something cheap and easy as opposed to a compressor or sensor failure (55k miles, so out of warranty). VW, of course, stopped including fuse box diagrams, but I found a couple on this site and in other places, and no joy after checking relevant fuses and pushing on the rest to be sure they're firmly seated ..
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My AC started blowing cool air last summer.My wife who drives it daily noticed that it wasn't as cold as when we first got it.I was making an appointment to take it in when the clock spring broke and we got all sorts of lights on the dashboard.It was still under warranty when I took it in and they gave us a loaner car.They told us that they changed the compressor,clock spring(which he said was a common thing to go on cars) there was also a trouble code on the turbo. That took them the longest to fix
.They ended up replacing a sensor and then found out it was bad wiring. Fast forward almost a year later and the weather is starting to get warm again here in NYC. I tested the AC and it is blowing cool air again. This time I put a thermometer in the center vent and it is blowing about 54.8 F after 5 minutes. The outside temp was 66.F. I called the dealer and took it in after work today and the service adviser said that 54.8 F was within range.I insisted that they keep it over night and have a tech check it and also do an oil change in the morning since it has 30K miles on it.I was time for one again. My question is... what the temperature range is for the AC in my Tiguan?
I made him give my wife another loaner (2016 Jetta) and when she got home I put the same thermometer in the center vent and it was blowing 40.2 F after 5 minutes.Much colder than my Tiguan. I want to make sure that they don't recharge the AC and we make it through the summer and we will be back to the dealer next year.This time the warranty will have expired.I don't have an extended warranty.I just got a bad vibe from this guy at the dealer.
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Second time I've used it was today, already 93F today and pushing 100F tomorrow, summer started in Feb here. AC just feels like it's mildly cool, not cold and I've tried it using in cabin air and outside air on low and full blast and it doesn't get cold is this normal for Lexus? my Subaru got ice cold so this is kinda odd for Lexus I would think.
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My 2013 ford f150 4x4 ac does not blow very cool air . We have charged the compressor and that did not work. Then we Vac it down and replaced the expansion valve and recharged the compressor, still the same. Also on the max high setting the blower is really loud?
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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My 2014 Sonata GLS has definite air conditioner problems. It takes some time for it to get cold. I had no problems with my 2011 Elantra - I never had to turn the air conditioner to its highest level. In addition, it cooled almost immediately. However, I have to turn on the Sonata's air conditioner to full capacity and wait several minutes before I get some cool air. When it's 95 degrees out here in Florida, a few minutes can seem like a long time.
Haven't had my car checked yet.
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 78k miles on it. Yesterday, to my dismay, I couldn't get any hot air out of my vent. I have never once had an issue with the hot or cold airflow before.
My coolant level is good and the temperature gauge is a-ok. The air coming in was cold yesterday and cool today; it appears it's just outdoor air temperature (as opposed to straight up cold) that I'm getting.
I believe my radiator is also overdue to get flushed...not sure whether or not that has anything to do w/this.
Is this likely the blend door actuator? I'm no car guy but I've been reading a little. Also....looks like this part might be 40-50. How much do you think I should be paying for labor if this is fixed?
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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