IS F (2008-2014) :: Idle Speed Without AC On - 500 RPM
Oct 25, 2014
LS F idle at without the AC on, mine is about 500 rpm, which seems low to me, if AC is on it feels about right 750 to 800 rpm.
View 8 RepliesLS F idle at without the AC on, mine is about 500 rpm, which seems low to me, if AC is on it feels about right 750 to 800 rpm.
View 8 RepliesSo I was driving in a busy part of town today with a lot of stop and go traffic. Then this previous previous generation E class pulled up next to me and started reving it, his exhaust sounds aftermarket. I am the kind of guy that never race or drive fast on the streets, so I just ignore him. Then when it's green he pulled ahead and maintain at 30 mph or so, when I caught up he started reving again. He had his emblems shaved so I cant tell which model it was
So I was like what the hell...if he is a E350 or E500 he stands no chance, and if he is a E55 AMG the worse case it will be a close match. Different story if he is a E63, but it didnt sound like one. Since I was cruising in AUTO before, I must be at 5th or 6th. So I went into Manual, press the sport button and start downshifting......it took forever.....I was literally just waiting for it to go to 2nd before slamming on the gas...since the street in front of us is running out of room and will reach another red soon. Before I could get to 2nd, he already took off after cruising with me for a bit. When I finally got to 2nd and the engine growl started, I flew past him and let him hear the borla but we already hit the red...he turned right. I just thought I missed the fun.....
It was a hot day in LA...so the engine oil is well warmed up. And since we have so many gears, I often times find downshift sluggish and esp it cant skip gears..it has to go in sequentially. I have little to complain about the upshifts, but downshift..am I missing something here? How to speed up the downshift?I think dual clutch is way faster in both up and down....
Is it normal to have variable fan speeds when Ac is on? I understand on WOT Ac deactivates on some cars but when it happens I'm just cruising along coming to a stop, the fan speed increases.
View 1 RepliesWhat should my idle speed be ? 2010 F150 4.6 2v, 4spd auto. Did not see anything under the hood on the stickers, maybe I missed it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevrolet with a V8 5.3 liter engine. When idle or at low speed the car shakes. When accelerating there is a drag. What could be the problem? And how can I resolve it?
View 3 RepliesUnder acceleration when close to the limit of adhesion during high speed long sweeping turns I was noticing an oil smell last year. I can't say if it was R, L or both turning directions since its been a full winter since I have driven the car.
I'm using Mobile 1 5w30, a stock air box and I have headers. I'm also running 305 PSS tires, and a pretty well modified suspension. I have no facts to back this up but I am assuming because of my setup that I can get a little more lateral acceleration then most.
I have zero oil consumption, no leaks and good test results from Blackstone. My only thought is that I am pushing a little oil in to the crank case breathers during this hard cornering.
I have a 2008 F-150 4.6 the AC blows cold driving down the road, but when I stop and idle it gets warm, doesn't blow cold took it to a shop they told me it was the electric clutch fan 550 bucks to replace was bad the truck doesn't overheat and the fan is working and kicking up a speed at idle just want a second opinion before i spend that much. I can get as to what might be causing the problem
View 8 RepliesSo I was at a track event and pushing 150 mph and heard this terrible sound. I look in rear view mirror and saw something black flying through the air. I thought it was my carbon fiber diffuser but turned out to be this.
View 12 RepliesWhile braking at very low spreads (towards the end of a stop), I get squeaking with light pressure braking. Then, yesterday it finally drove me insane. It was a lot louder than normal. Only thing different was that it was alot hotter than usual. It would squeak, as I lift off the brake lightly (while still applying pressure) to inch the car forward in traffic. I had always noticed a faint squeaking, but its now louder than what I grew accustomed to.
The dealership who installed my brakes 9800 miles ago, says there was a glazing, And they can't fix it (polish), because it's drilled rotors.
It's like a tire grinding or shuffling at low parking lot speed, hard right or left turn, more evident when slowly braking during the turn. Dealership claims the negative camber contributes to this phenomenon and that nothing can be done about it.
I realize we have about a 1.5-degree negative camber in 2011-and on IS-F (I have no mods and still running with stock Potenza RE-050s), perhaps this contributes to the feel of the tires at parking speeds.
While I was on my way to the Summit Point for a track weekend last month a CHECK SYSTEM warning light came on. I checked the code at the first Advance Auto I came across and found the codes "c0210 ABS Right Rear Speed Sensor CURRENT" and "c0215 ABS Left Rear Speed Sensor CURRENT". With the check system light on I couldn't use cruise control. I was worried that I didn't have rear ABS function, but after performing a few high speed threshold braking tests everything felt stable...so I continued and did a full 8 track sessions over the next 2 days.
The check system light came on within 40 miles of mounting new aftermarket wheels and tires. The check system light would usually go away after the car had sat for a day, but would come back on after 10-20 miles of driving.
My tags have just expired and I need to pass emissions now. I put my stock rear wheels back on so that I can avoid the codes and pass the Maryland OBDII emissions check. Everything was fine, but the check system light just came on for the first time with the stock rear wheels mounted (and before I could pass emissions)...though it took 150+ miles of driving before the check system light came on.
I would love to avoid purchasing new speed sensors, which seem to run $150+ each.
A quick internet search showed one Toyota SUV owner mostly fixed the problem by removing and cleaning the speed sensors and then dielectric greasing the connectors and coating the outside with silicon.
Just like the tittle says. My 2011 ISF with 56k miles on it is making a Clunking noise when pulling out of a parking spot or just anytime I fully steer to the left side and begin to move. If I try it in reverse it doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel fully to left or right it makes the same noise as I begin to move at slow speed. It almost feels like something is pushing the front wheels out. During normal driving I don't feel anything at all, just as steady as solid the car can be.
Is there any common issues with ISF with premature wear of ball joints, cv joint, sway bar bushings or hub bearing?
I've had my ISF for about 3 to 4 months. I absolutely love the car and i haven't seen too many of them in this area (central NJ). I wonder why lexus hasn't done a better job of informing the public. Most people don't even know that lexus makes a V8 sports car.
When the car is on idle, there is this strange vibration that i feel coming from under the seat. It happens for a few seconds and then stops and starts again when the car is on idle. It happens when the car is not warmed up, but also when the car is properly warmed up. I'm not sure if its a cause for concern. Is it because of the timing belt? Engine? Just want to make sure its normal and have the car looked at if its not.
I'm new to owning an ISF. I purchased it almost two months ago and couldn't be more happy with it. I know after owning a car you will start to notice more and more about the car. About a month into owning the car I was on my way to work and I stopped at a light. I noticed that there was a very slight shutter at idle. No where near the shutter if it was missing on a spark plug. After that day it has drawn my attention whenever I stop.
My question is is this normal? I know having a V8 in the car there is going to be some vibration. It's a 2009 with 29k.
So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?
I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
View 9 RepliesCould a bad vsv be affecting my idle speed? I'm wanting to adjust idle as per the maintenance schedule and i don't know if i should wait until after i replace what appears to be a bad VSV. Also, where on the top part of the wiring harness i can connect an ohmmeter so it runs to the VSV so I don't have to get back in that tight area?
View 10 RepliesMy 2011 Kia Rio5 is misfiring bad, especially at idle and low speeds. I took it in to a non-dealer mechanic (since I'm no longer under warranty) and no codes came up. They said coil #3 was arcing, so they went ahead and replaced it and the spark plug. When I drove it home the car was misfiring more than ever. It misfired a couple years ago and I had a coil replaced (#3?) and a couple months after that it did it again. I could took it to another dealer (both happened while under warranty) and they said the reason the coil went out before was because the spark plugs were bad and hadn't been changed. So they replaced the #3 coil and spark plugs and it was fine until recently. I'm scheduled to take it to a kia dealer service dept. on friday, does this still seem like a coil issue? If not, what could it be?
View 1 RepliesAm I the only one who thinks the speed of the air coming out of the vents is faster at any given blower setting when recirculation is turned on rather than off? I also noticed that the blower sounds louder with recirculation on rather than off.
My car is a 2014 Passat TDI 6MT with the manual climate control, and has 3,000 miles on it. The cabin filter is basically brand new still and certainly isn't clogged up.
1995 Tacoma with 2.7 EFI engine has high idle speed. When cranked cold idles at 800 rpm but as it warms up idle speed increases up around 1600 rpm. Does not idle down when clutch is fanned, have checked for vacuum leaks and have also checked most sensors. The exhaust manifold is cracked and I am not sure if this might be part of the problem. I am not convinced issue is not vacuum related but not sure of a definite way to resolve this question or issue.
View 5 RepliesA couple of times over the past several months (once last summer and again last week), my 02 Camry LE 4-cylinder has lost/forgotten the idle speed and stalled. Simple enough to fix the issue, but aggravating and possibly dangerous (last summer it happened while I was in stop-and-go traffic on the interstate). What causes this?
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