I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
View 15 RepliesHeaders will probably be the next mod that I do to my F, I have read a good bit about them on here, but no one really says anything about how they are doing long term ( any issues from heat on engine bay plastics after years of use) or how the coating holds up after years of use as track or DD or just anything else that seems to be an issue over time after being installed.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2014 Lexus IS350 Fsport. When I press the button outside air mode and no fans are on. I get warm/hot air even when the outside temp is cold.
View 10 RepliesPPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
View 10 RepliesGot a 13 f150 with the 5.0. I bought it used with about 14 thous kms, now it has 17. Ever since I owned it I noticed the idle was a bit jumpy warm or cold. I didn't really pay any attention to it as it wasnt throwing a CEL or anything but now that I have a roush exhaust and intake I have started to notice it a lot more....not that its worse but at idle my truck sounds like a boat. Weird comparison I know. It seems like it'll jump within +/- 200 rpm @ idle which IIRC is 1K rpm.
View 7 RepliesSo the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
AC used for the first time since purchasing the truck last Oct. I notice and passengers in truck with me as well notice that the AC is not strong at all and it fluctuates from cold to warm with a heavy damp smell almost like its letting fresh air in mixing with the cold AC. It seems to be doing this more so when driving but will also do it at at idle after driving. Of course dealership states perfect temp blowing @34 and Freon at perfect levels. Max AC will not blow you out of the truck and reg ac at lowest setting feels like its on a vent setting. When AC first comes out it smells very damp mildew smell. 2013 F-150 Limited 3.5.....
View 3 Replies5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 Mazda 6 that has been a great car, but with it getting warmer, every time I use the AC the air coming through the vents starts warm then cools, then warms then cools. What is causing it to be so inconsistent? As far as I know the AC has never been recharged or serviced.
View 3 RepliesHave a 2003 gmc truck 1500hd. When i come to a stop or at idle , my ac blows warm air out. At cursing speed it blows cold air.
View 5 RepliesWhat a strange problem. EVERY EVERY morning the car starts perfect. Once it is warm some of the time (half) it will give a long crank approx 2.5 seconds before it will start. What a stupid problem! I have replaced:
Spark Plugs (NGK G-power) cheaper than stock, supposed to be better.
timing belt, water pump, idler-just matenence
Cam sensors
crank sensor (on tranny)
I checked the wires and coil by hosing them down while running. Vag-com says the temperature sensor is correct. No trouble codes except Secondary Air... What to do
When u set the climate to hot but your only getting cold air ? and it would randomly work and go hot driving me crazy as its getting cold!
View 11 RepliesI love my 2011 Forester except for one thing. (you all knew this was coming) it seems to take forever to warm up! My Forester has a blue light on the dash (Coolant temperature Light) It turns red if the temperature is too high and it is blue when the car is started and then goes out when the car is warmed up. To me, this seems to take too long. My Forester has 50,000 miles on it. The other day I timed how long it took to warm up. The forester sat at work for 8 hours. When I started it up to go home, (it was 42 degrees), it took almost 4 minutes for the blue light to go off indicating the car was properly warmed up. All my coworkers were long gone. I bought the car new and I intend to drive it for many years so I have been waiting for the blue light to go off. I get a hard time from friends and family telling me to get going...I don't think it takes this long for other cars to warm up.
View 10 RepliesWinter is coming and I am running into a problem, I tried to set my heat at the highest level today and was getting nothing but cold air. I get ice cold A/C, but no heat at any temperature. What could be the culprit?
View 9 RepliesSome information about the truck2004 Excursion, Motor has a December 2003 built date listed on the valve cover
Bullet proof complete by Hallas performance just prior to Mike's passing (3 years ago). ARP, EGR, Oil Cooler, lifters, etc..
Newer batteries, DC amp 185 alternator, newer starter, she cranks hard and fast~230,000 miles
Here is the situation: Starts good and fast when cold, even subzero temperatures. She cranks long and barely catches if I make a short stop at a store or restaurant. A few hours later or the next morning is fine.
I found the following codes:
P2284 - Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
P0528
I took her into the local Ford Dealer for diagnosis and here's what they reported. ICP tests good and has the latest pigtails. They reported a leak in either of the following.
Oil injection pump Estimate of 8.5 hours to repair.
Under the Valve Cover Gasket. Estimate of 3.5 hours to repair.
So here are the questions I have. Does this diagnosis sound appropriate? Is it reasonable that they do not know which area is causing the problem? Are the hours reasonable estimates for the repairs? Assuming I go ahead with these repairs, is there anything else I should have them look at while they're in there?
Seems like sometimes on cold start ups the car hesitates before it fires up. Thoughts?
Start up IS-F - YouTube
I noticed on cold start , when I start to accelerate (usually i push down maybe 20-30% on the peddle. not WOT) i noticed when the tranny shifts from 1st to 2nd there is a sudden jerk that feels like a slip in the tranny.
you can hear and see the RPM shoot from like 3k to ~4.5k (during the shift) and back down to less than 3k on the 2nd gear.
This only happens when the engine started from a cold start and accelerating at a moderate pace. After a minute or two , i start moving from a full stop and it doesn't do it anymore. I have a 2008 model.
Had my JoeZ exhaust installed at my first oil change at the dealership about a month ago.
Anyway, late last week I noticed on cold start in the morning I'm getting a metallic vibration noise. This is on gentle acceleration out of my subdivision. It disappears within a minute or less and doesn't re-occur until the next morning. Best way I can describe the sound is a cell phone set to vibrate sitting on an aluminum cookie sheet.
Any hints on what I can check that might be the culprit? I already checked to see if the muffler tips are hitting the exhaust diffusers but they're clearing and I can reach up around the canisters and fit my hand up around them so they're not touching that silver heat shield material.
So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?