Under heavy braking, both of my ISF's experience a repeated "thunking." Brakes are fine, rotors aren't warped, and you don't feel anything through the pedal. Rather, it's felt through the floorboard. I bought upgraded LCA bushings, thinking this would solve it, but it persists.
View 8 RepliesI've owned my IS F for a little over two weeks now, and I have noticed under several occasions under heavy breaking (close to 70-80% breaking capacity) that I have to fight the steering wheel to keep the car tracking straight. This is anywhere from speeds of 80-90 mph coming down to 40-50 mph. Could this be an issue related to the front control arm bushings? My F only has ~41,xxx miles and tires are brand new (OEM Spec) Continental ExtremeContact DWS. No other alignment issues known as the car doesn't track left or right either.
View 14 RepliesAlright so my 06 is at about 102,xxx right now and has given me no major issues (knock on wood) besides this stupid noise that I cant pin point to fix. So far I've narrowed it down to this, sounds like its coming from the right rear and usually only happens when I am slowing down and or braking. Ive also taken note that it only happens when its really hot outside , all signs have been pointing to the rotors and brakes but i need some thoughts/opinions on what else it could be before i shell out almost $200 to get my brakes fixed. Here are some more details about the car
Rear pads replaced sometime last year they still have meat on them but i did not replace rotors nor did i get them turned.
I am sure that the noise is coming from the rear, ive been half way in the trunk while my buddy drove and i hear it coming from right rear.
Shocks have been replaced (noise was occurring before replacing them)
Nothing seems loose everything seems to be tightened down right.
Tires are brand new (noise was there before getting tires and after)
Mufflers are secured normal wiggle mounts look good.
Emergency Shoes have never been replaced but look ok.
Wheel hub looked great when i took it apart (Looks new doubt its that)
It happens when I am braking from 35mph below or sometimes 0 to 35 40mph rolling no braking then it goes away.
Ok so my left front wheel hub (from what it sounds like) might be on its way out. Upon braking there is a "thunk" that sounds like its coming from said wheel hub and I can feel it in the floor. Also when turning sharply at low speed in (either in 2h 4h 4l) and then braking there is also a lovely grinding noise coming from again what sounds like the wheel hub area. So without tearing open the wheel hub what can I do to actually properly diagnose without taking it to a shop.
Also, lets a assume its the wheel hub and associated parts, what all do i need to buy parts and tools wise in addition to the wheel hub itself. I've seen 2 or 3 trucks so far this winter with shattered hubs.
I got my 2011 ISF with 17k miles. About a month ago it started to make noise under light braking. No noise under heavy braking. I know the ISF go through brake and tires like crazy but at 18k miles?
What pads and rotors are recommended for a new set?
While braking at very low spreads (towards the end of a stop), I get squeaking with light pressure braking. Then, yesterday it finally drove me insane. It was a lot louder than normal. Only thing different was that it was alot hotter than usual. It would squeak, as I lift off the brake lightly (while still applying pressure) to inch the car forward in traffic. I had always noticed a faint squeaking, but its now louder than what I grew accustomed to.
The dealership who installed my brakes 9800 miles ago, says there was a glazing, And they can't fix it (polish), because it's drilled rotors.
I have noticed the last 3 times I hit the brakes really hard above 100 mph ( even 120 mph) I hear a whirling noise coming from either the front brakes or tires. Kind of sounds like when you have really old summer tires on the car and you make a stop on the street . I have heard this on the track the last 2 track days I had. I know my front tires (Michelin PSS) are about 40% worn but are still in pretty good shape.
My rotors are the same that carried me through 6 track days in 10 months and was recently told by the dealership that my front pads need to be replaced sooner than later ( they were installed 10 months ago before all the track work ) and I am assuming the rotors are beat up pretty goo . I will be getting new tires in the next few months and will most likely be replacing pads and rotors at the next scheduled service. The car has 34k on it. Is this normal with Brembos or aggressive brakes?
In june of 2014 I purchased a 2012 F150 Harley Edition with the 6.2 for my wife to use as a daily driver. I told her that she could have any vehicle she wanted and she chose the White Harley Truck.
It is a Ford Certified Pre Owned and we took delivery with about 30,000 miles on the odometer.
From the test drive in June 2014 until today the truck has had two distinct issues with the rear end and suspension:
1. After coming to a normal stop (at a light) when you start to accelerate (on green) there is a distinct thunk that is heard and felt. Having owned other vehicles with a slip yoke drive shaft I knew right away that the slip yoke needed to be cleaned and lubricated and that is how the dealer repaired this issue. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles and the thunk started again recently.
2. Also after coming to a normal stop and then accelerating there is a vibration felt until the mass of the truck is moving along at about 20 MPH. It's not a vibration like a wheel/tire is out of balance it's more like the whole vehicle is shaking similar to the Space Shuttle Experience ride at the Kennedy Space Center. The shudder is severe enough that my elderly neighbors asked if the truck "was going to make it without falling apart" when my wife and I took them to dinner one evening. The Shudder is exponentially worse when towing any kind of trailer. I have a tandem axle car hauler to haul a 1992 Jeep YJ to various events and the whole setup might weigh 5000 LBS max which is well under the tow capacity of the truck. To say the shaking is violent is putting it lightly.
When I took it in for service, the dealer told me that it was my fault for riding around with the locking differential locked. I told them nice try and that I know what a locking diff is and how to use it because I have two of them in my Jeep. I then took the service advisor for a ride, made him verify the diff is off and demonstrated the problem without even leaving the parking lot. At that point he acknowledged the condition I left the vehicle with him again. The repair the dealer made was to change the rear differential fluid and called me to say the truck was ready.
I drove back to the dealer again (35 minutes in light traffic) where I was presented with the vehicle. I didn't have to leave the lot before I knew it still was not fixed and pulled back into the service lane. I was greeted by the advisor who then proceeded to tell me it was "characteristic of the vehicle." I was completely frustrated and took my truck with it's "characteristic" shudder home.
My 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
I've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
About a month back my wife and I were on our way home from dinner and when we exited the interstate I heard an awful rubbing sound coming from the engine compartment. I wasn't quite sure what it was or how to describe it. I was concerned it was the timing belt right away. I limped it home sputtering and misfiring and listened for a moment before shutting it down.
The next day I checked all the accessories. Nothing wrong there, so I realized it must have been the timing belt. I began striping the rest down and confronted carnage. One of the bearings had gone on an idler pulley and the gear was riding the bolt. the belt had moved out of position and began to cut into the backside of the plastic cover. By some miracle it hadn't completely snapped or jumped timing.
I replaced all pulleys, the tensioner, the water pump, and the belt. After my buddy and I got it back together it seemed fine aside from a slightly rough-ish idle for a day or two, but then the misfire got quite bad. I chugged it up to my wife's parent's place. We borrowed a car from them, and then I went into repair mode again. I reasoned that perhaps the plugs had fouled when the belt was messed up initially, so I replaced the plugs. Didn't have wires on hand. Fired it back up. No bueno. Same misfire and chugging. Still borderline driveable.
So, I tore down the belt again to find that the intake cam on the passenger side was about 5 teeth off. Seemed further out than my friend and I would have left it, but I got it lined back up within a tooth and put it back together. Still no good. Still misfiring. So we tried it a couple more times. One of us started to doubt the cause, but I talked him to try with one more reset. This time I wanted to get everything absolutely perfectly lined up. We did. I fired it up. Silky smooth, ran like a sewing machine. Put it back together and everything seemed fine. For a day or two.
The misfiring began again. It bothered me that I hadn't managed to take care of the plug wires. I had the codes pulled and I had a steady misfire on ... I think it was 4. I replaced the wires on that side and everything was back to normal. Silky smooth operation. For a couple days.
I was on my way to work and had to brake very hard to avoid an accident. Like from 70 to 0 wheel-lockingly hard. Immediately a misfire at idle returned. Doesn't seem to be an issue when not at idle, but it's hard to say. I guessed that it was the plug wires from the other side. I replaced those today, gave it an oil change. Still misfiring. I dropped by autozone. Codes read - misfire everywhere but 3, and I'm guessing that maybe a sensor for 3 is just messed up. The coil pack looked suspect, and I thought I'd do the PCV valve while I was at it. After replacing both the misfires continue.
I've yanked the battery to encourage the computer to reset. I'm at a loss at the moment. The only think I can guess is that perhaps my new tensioner is poop and I've jumped a tooth or two somewhere? I'm looking for guesses and wild theories here. Anything to try. I'm going to reconnect the battery shortly and if it's still misfiring, which I'm assuming it will be, I'm going to have codes pulled again.
Just to head this one off at the pass - I believe I got extremely lucky and did not damage the valves with the timing belt nonsense. Compression seems good, and I doubt it would have ran as well as it did as long as it did with valve damage.
2007 SF SE 3.3, approaching 60,000 miles. I'm feeling a front steering wheel shimmy on "heavy" braking, as in a recent trip into the Adirondack mountains with twisty roads.
View 5 RepliesNon mechanical squeaking noise coming from rear passenger side cabin area. Only appears to happen under 75 percent or so acceleration and slightly heavy braking. Sounds like an electrical squeal intermittent under the above conditions.
View 2 RepliesGot my IS 350 F Sport on 6/30 and I love it... but I found my first fault in the car... and I hope it can be fixed or I am wrong... The wipers just aren't that fast.... and their are very few speeds...
The FAST wipers setting (all the way down, clicking twice) doesn't hold up well against heavy ran...this setting is like Medium-High on my old 2013 Infiniti... But the Infiniti almost had a "VERY HIGH" setting and it was great for down pours... this "high" on the lexus just isn't that good... and quiet frankly IS NOT SAFE.
Also, pushing it down once for the intermediate setting where you can twist for 3 different speeds just isn't enough as well...
Video : [URL] .....
I have a persistent leak that causes the front passenger carpet to get wet after a heavy rain. Truck went to the dealer under warranty and they resealed the third brake light. Not sure if it ever fixed the problem, but I probably didn't check it as often as I should have after the repair. We've had a few good rain storms and the carpet is getting pretty wet. Since the truck is now out of warranty (2011 F150) I made a new gasket for the third brake light. I think it's pretty well sealed, so I'm thinking the leak is coming from somewhere else.
View 14 RepliesAC used for the first time since purchasing the truck last Oct. I notice and passengers in truck with me as well notice that the AC is not strong at all and it fluctuates from cold to warm with a heavy damp smell almost like its letting fresh air in mixing with the cold AC. It seems to be doing this more so when driving but will also do it at at idle after driving. Of course dealership states perfect temp blowing @34 and Freon at perfect levels. Max AC will not blow you out of the truck and reg ac at lowest setting feels like its on a vent setting. When AC first comes out it smells very damp mildew smell. 2013 F-150 Limited 3.5.....
View 3 Repliesbefore there was a problem in my car like when ever i was accelerating the car i feel that there is a heavy engine sound and i consult the mechanic some said me that the engine mounts to be replaced and some said that spark plug to be replaced [Present ODO Meter is 124,000 km]but now i am feeling that when i am initially accelerating the car ["without turning on AC"] It gives some sound from the silencer and the car is moving slowly and car is shaking when i am turning the AC on it shakes very badly and even though it is moving like a tortoise at the initial stage even though i accelerate later it is moving fast...
View 3 RepliesHere's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
Honda civic 2008 and I notice that while I accelerate the car at the first time I hear the heavy engine sound while comparing to the other carall the oils have been changed recently.
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2006 Ford F-150 XLT, 5.4 3V Triton. Last Thursday my check engine light came on, so I came to this forum and found out how to retrieve the code with out a OBD. It came up as a 0301 Misfire cylinder 1-10?
I went to the dealer and they said it was cylinder one, sold me a new plug and coil pack and they installed it for a nice $$$. On my way home it started to sputter again when you give it heavy throttle, I called they told me that I should change all the plugs and Coil packs, kinda makes sense but to have all 8 plugs and coils go at once it only has 83km on it.
I've got an '06 F150 and the steering isn't right with it. It has had a heavy feel and is almost like the power assist is only working half as good as it should. It's been like this for a couple months. I 've had all four ball joints and the steering rack replaced in the last month. It had the heavy steering feel before and after everything was replaced. It also doesn't recover itself on sharp turns, I have to turn the wheel back as I complete the turn. Could it be the power steering pump? I thought it was a mechanical device and it either worked or it didn't, maybe they get weak?
View 14 Replies