IS F (2008-2014) :: Heat Turns Cold When Stopped At Red Light Or At Idle
Oct 23, 2014
So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I'm new to owning an ISF. I purchased it almost two months ago and couldn't be more happy with it. I know after owning a car you will start to notice more and more about the car. About a month into owning the car I was on my way to work and I stopped at a light. I noticed that there was a very slight shutter at idle. No where near the shutter if it was missing on a spark plug. After that day it has drawn my attention whenever I stop.
My question is is this normal? I know having a V8 in the car there is going to be some vibration. It's a 2009 with 29k.
View 8 Replies
I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
View 14 Replies
After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2008 Prius. The blower for the AC and heat stopped working. I have checked the two AC fuses and they are okay. I used the touch screen diagnostics mode on the touch screen and it appears that the touch screen and the screen switches are working. Any other things to check?
How hard is it to access the blower motor to replace or to check if it is getting power? How much of the dash has to be disassembled?
View 6 Replies
2002 Passat v6 - climatronic control...
I have just cold air blowing at idle and under load. I have read posts and checked the following: temp remains at 190, heater coil hoses-both are hot and removed the dash to see if the flapper door (red arm) was moving-it is. Any other things I can check?
View 8 Replies
My idle seems to always be somewhat rough whenever I put the heat on in cold weather. While in drive I'll come to a red light, heat will be on and I'll stop. The. my idle will bounce down then back up. I shut heat off to test and it only does it while heats on.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2009 f150 fx4 it will not blow cold air or heat on any setting. I have replaced the resistor and it stopped working again if i smack the black box the resistor is in it will work again. My question is where is the blower motor and how hard of a job is it to change. I just ordered the motor.
View 2 Replies
2011 ISF with clunking and rubbing noises coming from the passenger front side, especially when making right turns or hitting a pot hole. It really does sound like something is loose and bouncing around when hitting a pot hole, and its the same noise when taking a right turn at any speed. It doesn't make any sense!!! Could be engine bay or could be in the tire well, unsure. We took the tire off today and found nothing wrong and no rubbing points around. We checked the control arm, strut, sway bar, backing plate, wheel bearing for looseness. Cant find anything wrong at all...
View 12 Replies
My 2008 LS460L blows cold air on cold days/nights when the engine is idling. Raising the RPM to about 1500 causes heat to start to flow out of the air ducts. I also hear a gurgling sound behind the dash when accelerating normally from idle. The water pump was replaced by Lexus in late April 2014.
I have checked the coolant reservoir (engine cold) and found it to be slightly below the "LOW" coolant level mark (not empty). It would seem that since the feed from the coolant reservoir is on the bottom of the reservoir, as long as there is some coolant in the reservoir, the rest of the system should be full.
All things considered, are the two issues (no heat & gurgling sound) more likely to be caused by low coolant in the system, the relatively new water pump, or something else? BTW, what is the proper method to top off the coolant in a 2008 LS460L? Are there any special bleed ports for eliminating air pockets?
View 14 Replies
I just put on headers and after running into the infamous rattle sound I found an additional issue. The steering linkage seems to be rubbing or binding on right hand turns. Any normal 90 degree right hand turn will prevent me from taking the wheel beyond a certain point. I have had to make wide swooping turns. I feel the steering wheel stop further progress turning to the right and it gets a heavy rattle feel in the steering wheel.
View 1 Replies
I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
View 14 Replies
Like when I turn on the lights its not lighting up. Everything else lights up but the 3 dials that controls the heat/cooler/where it goes to/ the speed. Those 3 dials won't light up.
View 11 Replies
My A/c vent at chest level and other levels just stopped putting out cold air, there is a small amount coming out of the vent on the driver side vent. I have the vent knobs set to be open.
I have tried all settings on. Just hoping this is something I can repair. This is an '08 with 120k on it, have had zero hassles for the last 36 months of ownership.
View 7 Replies
Let me start off by saying that I live in the Virginia Beach area and it is HOT. My AC stopped blowing cold air late last summer so naturally I ignored it until the temperature hit close to 100 degrees a few weeks ago. We went to an Auto Zone store and purchased one of the recharge kits and had great success for about two weeks. Two weeks following our efforts to recharge the AC the air temperature started to increase once again. Now about three weeks later I have absolutely NO cold air coming from the AC. We THINK that this must be due to the car leaking freon somewhere. I have read online that the stop leak kits can really gum up your AC and in some cases cause it to stop working completely.
View 2 Replies
I just recently bought my IS350 F-Sport (now has about 2kmiles) and the other day while it was about 70 degrees out, at a stop light, i decided to floor it in 1st gear (manual mode) and towards hitting redline (about 6300rpm), the traction light comes on and the transmission automatically shifts up before i even get a chance to fully manually shift myself. So by the time i do get a chance to push the paddle shifter, it would now go into 3rd gear.
I did not turn off my traction control before all this - so that may be the problem but i didn't think it would be an issue because the motor is all stock (aside from JoeZ intake pipe). Did simply turning the traction off allow the for full usage of 1st gear before needing to upshift?
View 14 Replies
2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
View 5 Replies
So this is the second winter I've had my GX (a 2014 purchased in Nov. 2013).
With radio and other accessories turned off, there is a rattling/grating sound that is quite pronounced at/near idle, especially when cold. Sounds like a rapid PRAPP-PRAPP-PRAPP. This occurs when the vehicle is in Drive, but stopped. Occurs most often at within the first 5 minutes of operation....i.e. leaving the house or office, driving to the end of the street, hearing it at a stoplight or stopsign.
I've posted videos/recordings of it previously, which I have also shown to the dealer. The dealer said they could sort of reproduce, but could not diagnose it. I have tried to crane myself outside of the GX to listen to it, but from outside nothing seems to be amiss.
At first I was worried that it was engine knock/the car eating itself, but if that noise was representative of that, I think the car would be blowing smoke or dead by now. I have not noticed smoke, adverse effect on fuel economy or the noise at speed/under load, as you would expect if the engine were truly knocking. So I'm thinking it may be a fan, some type of underhood accessory, etc. that is the culprit. Sounds almost like a plastic component (fan, pulley, etc.) could be off kilter?? Something that more or less goes away after the engine has fully warmed up and the car has been driven for 10 mins or so.
View 4 Replies
Owner of a 2014 350 fsport here.... 15,000 miles ... I noticed on cold starts a slightly rough idle since its gotten colder here recently. After starting the car it'll start fine and everything but then as its warming up the needle sometimes jumps 75-100 rpm. its like someone tapped their foot on the accelerator and let off. no lights or anything and the car runs fine.
Heres the catch... i have a joe z catback and joe z intake with fsport filter, could this possibly be why? because of the airflow ? i also have been using Lucas fuel injector cleaner and lubricant.
Also when i put the car in park after driving, i notice the needle isn't steady, it does move a little maybe 20-50rpm, not sure if this is normal or not because i never really paid attention until now.
View 2 Replies
