IS F (2008-2014) :: Floor Jack Won't Fit Under The Car
Feb 29, 2016
I recently lowered my car and installed some CF side skirts, but when I went to go do an oil change, my floor jack barely fit under the car, and when I started jacking it up, it started applying pressure to my CF sideskirt. I was cringing as I was watching it flex, hoping it wouldn't cause the clear coat to "web".
I ended up finding a couple blocks of wood, and drove up on them to get the car an extra inch higher off the ground, but my CF side skirt was still meeting my floor jack. Those of you who are lowered with side splitters/skirts.
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Need to check a rear brake tomorrow. I looked around the side of the car and there doesn't appear to be a flat spot for a floor jack. There is an area that looks bent like someone used a floor jack there but not sure it is the right place to lift. I have the factory manuals and they don't point to the locations either.
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I have a AC Delco 3 1/2 ton that will blead down faster than I could get a jack stand under the truck. Not that I've tried. Just curious where to go from here without wasting more money.
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Where is the aux input jack on the 2005 f150? I have the console button but no input jack?
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I have a 2008 Passat Lux with an ipod dock in my glove compartment which I would like to turn into an aux input if possible. There is no AUX input under my hand-rest so the ipod connector in my glove compartment seems to be the only way for me to listen to my music from my phone in the car. I have found several cables that convert IPod to 3.5mm jack (and hopeful vice-versa?) Will this work somehow or am I stuck with the ipod connector without any aux input?
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I have a 2008. My car has a 12V socket in the centre console, but no auxiliary jack.
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My 2007 F150. That jack wobbles in the hole and, when I plug in a cave, it does not make solid contact. What I am wondering is, does that little panel on top of the dash pop out of that hole to give access to the jack? I am wondering if I can tighten it and re-tension the contacts if I can just get behind that panel.
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how to find a floor jack that is low enough and has a long enough chassis to get to the central jacking points of the IS? I have 2 different models and there is no way they are long enough to reach the identified jack points but still allow for handle movement. Need to change my winter wheels and don't want to use the floor jack on the pinch weld jacking positions. Also don't really want to use the onboard jack....
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I have a 2010 f-150. Started having issues with the blend door actuator located behind the radio so replaced that a couple months ago and fixed issue. Now the a/c will only blow through the defrost and floor vents. I replaced the lower blend door actuator thinking that might be the culprit, but did not fix the problem. What the solution might be.
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I recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2014 f150 super crew 4wd. When I picked it up, I heard a humming in the front end that ended up being a bad iwe actuator. I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced it. No more humming, but now I have a very annoying vibration in my gas pedal that can also be felt in the floor board and gas pedal. I've had it aligned. I thought it might be my front driveshaft so I put it in neutral while driving and vibration is the same. It gets worse when I get up around 70mph. I also feel small jerks in the gas pedal at these speeds along with the vibration. It vibrates worse under heavy acceleration as well. Cause I can't wait to set my cruise every time I drive it bothers me that much. Only has 10,000 miles on it.
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I am having an issue with my '14 Camry Se. The rear floor mats are constantly damp. Front mats are dry. There is a ton of condensation that builds up on the windows everyday. I do not believe the ac drain tube is clogged.
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2009 FX4... Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I have had the mechtronic unit replaced due to harsh shifting and the vibration was there before and after that was replaced. The drive shaft was also replaced due to a click/clinking noise and the vibration was there before and after as well. The harsh shifting and clinking noise was fixed with those repairs, but the vibration is still there. I notice it more when I am towing.
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So now that heat of summer is here, I have been running the AC and noticed a problem. The carpet under the floor mat on the passenger side is wet. It is not from the rain but only after I run the AC. There is a good amount of water in the carpet. The condensation also runs out from under the truck like normal. Any fix to keep me from spending money at the dealer? 2011 F150 XLT.
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In the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
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The part # 58297-50020 DOES NOT work for my 2008 Camry. The retainer is too shallow to snap to the upper piece of the assembly.
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So I am reading through my manual for my 3 day old non-nav R32. My dealer told me where the AUX jack is (I have a non iPod MP3 player), but I don't see anything in the manual about how I get it to work. Not that I have tried yet, I need to go and get a male-male stereo jack first. But I don't see any button on the non-nav stereo in the car that points to enabling the AUX jack.
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I can't get my shifter to move out of park. I took it in and they replaced the brake switch and although that seemed to fix it it started up again after a week of use. Now I'm stuck in my driveway. What's causing this?
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I recently got myself a 2007 F150 XLT Supercab, love the truck, but I find myself needing to make a few mods. First up is the floor console. This is the small console sits atop the hump between the jump seat and the dash. It contains two cup holders and the 4x4 floor shifter.
First how does one remove the 4x4 shift, you need to in order to get the floor console off, the console itself lifts straight up, but the boot for the shifter is attached to it, so the only way I can see to remove it. However I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove it.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and use the aux jack all the time for my iPod. About 3 months ago it would intermittently go mono and then I would jiggle the cable going to the aux jack and it would resume stereo. Now it is full time mono through the left speakers only and I have tried to switch cables with no success.
When I was in for service, I mentioned this to the dealer and he told me it is because I was not using a "Hyundai" cable to connect. Now I know this is B.S. as it is an industry standard headphone jack. Another client at the counter said hers was doing the same thing too.
I was thinking I had to pull the aux connector out of the radio and look for a loose wire or something.
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I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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