IS F (2008-2014) :: Engine Ticking After It Fully Warmed Up
Apr 2, 2014
About a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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My coolant was right below the low mark (it was right above 1k miles ago so it has a slight leak, but haven't checked the bottom core yet, most likely its leaking there?) so overnight it sat and in the morning ive filled it to the high mark and upon starting and warming up the engine the coolant went back to right below low. It doesn't look like its leaking at least not anywhere that fast, is this normal? I gotta check later again while car warmed up etc to check level, but how can the coolant go from being at the high mark to right below the low mark?
Regardless the radiator had previously been repaird by the lexus dealership for leaks, where it should've been replaced. Luckily lexus said they will take a look and replace, but Id rather not go through the dealership.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I just bought this truck yesterday. During the test drive and everything it seemed all fine. After all the paperwork and the truck was actually mine. I noticed once it is all warmed up it seems to have a slight knock/tick? and a slight miss to it. I shot a couple videos, one up underneath where it sounds like most of the noise is coming from. Could it be an exhaust leak? Or is it something internal? Like the Cam Phasers, or a rod or something!
Here is a video around the exhaust area.
Here is up underneath the truck.
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I noticed my sound a few weeks ago but wasn't as loud as the videos I've seen. Didn't really bother me. I did notice today that the sound was a lot louder . The only thing that has changed is i had my oil changed over the weekend with mobil 1 5w-30 fully synthetic. Now I don't know if that could factor into the sound getting louder.
I am really hoping its just a cat and i can replace my headers and everything is good. i just got the car with 19k miles on it and do not have a warranty.
I have been worrying about "engine noises" for years and at this point if its something i can't fix without dumping thousands of dollars into it, then so be it. I am just going to enjoy the car too the fullest. Plus, once i get full exhaust, it will work with canceling out the ticking sound.
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe that when the engine has warmed up, the engine starts making a ticking/clicking noise. The dealership told me not to worry all cars make that noise and it was probably just a purge valve. Does this sound right?
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Have a heavy steering feel on their 2010's with the 215 45/17 tires? It seems much heavier than previous Prius's and also have noticed that mine when it is really cold the steering wheel gets a little twitchy until it is fully warmed up.
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When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
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Experienced a weird clicking sound when the steering wheel is fully locked either left or right, when turning at low speeds? Its more of a pop than click. No issues driving straight, or in regular turns, just when fully extended.
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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I read a similar post but no resolution. My '05 Equinox starts fine most of the time, but when I make a quick stop before its fully warmed up I have to slightly depress the accelerator to get it to start. Now I know with fuel injection this should't be happening but its been the case almost since the day I bought it. GM changed out the software in the computer and that seemed to work for a while, at least long enough for the warranty to end. It doesn't bother me but my wife wants the car now. What's up?
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Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
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Three days ago, my 2002 Taurus ses, 144k, auto, 3.0 v6 motor, started "ticking" after I drove it to the local grocery. It is coming from the top of the motor, but does not make noise when it is first started, cold, only after it is warmed up. Oil & filter has 2500 miles on them, all other fluids are good.
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2014 IS350 ... having issues with loud ticking from engine? Sounds like it's coming from the engine valves. Lose valves maybe? My car only has 16k miles. But the ticking is annoying. I cant imagine the valves ticking that loud with such low miles. And it ticks even after warmed up. The oil is within normal range and still looks clean. I'm not due for an oil change for another 2k. (i change the oil every 5k). I am considering switching to sightly higher weight oil for the summer time.
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I've had this truck since new and now with 98k miles I just started to hear the dreaded engine ticking. I realize that it is probably the cam phaser's. I have plans to take it to the dealer to get the plugs changed (actually not bad at $225) and now I going to add the ticking noise to the list. How bad will I get killed for two new cam phaser's? Also, since this just started, am I doing any more damage by continuing to drive it? I probably won't be able to take it it for another month.
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I just bought a 2010 F150 XLT XTR SuperCab 4X4 with a 4.6L 3V engine. I had a 2003 5.4L and a 2004 V10 before and this new engine seems to be nosier then the older ones I've had. It's a ticking/fluttering type noise I here when I'm standing outside the truck while it is idling. Is it normal for these newer 3V engines to make this noise? My wife has a 2009 Hyundai Santefe and it makes a similar noise just not as loud. Does the 5.4L make a similar noise also?
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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