IS F (2008-2014) :: Downshifting First Is Must Before Racing From A Roll?
Jul 25, 2015
I was driving down the road and an m3 came up next to me. I was chewing on my fingernail and my girl says o this guy wants to race "heard him down shift". I drive in sports mode a lot and was in it at this time. cause I was chewing on my finger nail I didn't downshift via paddle, when I heard him hit it I hit it as well he took off a car and a half while I was waiting for my tranny to drop into the right gear when it did we were at a stand still he wasn't gaining and neither was I then my girl yield cop so I let off lol he was sitting in a field off to the side.
is there anything I can do to get the tranny to act faster? or is it a case of down shifting first is a must before racing from a roll?
but then you have to keep the bottle temp/pressure up and full and on all the time. why o why cant they hack this ECU so I can turbo this thing
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My windows does not all go down when I hold unlock on my fob and how can I change setting for the car not to unlock when putting in park and when opening the door manually all inside locks would open too. My 2011 didn't have a manual.
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I've noticed that when I downshift into second gear, either going down a hill to augment braking, or setting up to take a corner quickly, I will occasionally hear two quick beeps (in the cabin) which are not very loud. This seems to happen when I'm using the paddles to downshift.
I assume that this is some sort of driver's aid, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what it's for.
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I have a 2014 IS350. Is there a way to roll the windows up and down with the remote? My friend has and Acura that can roll the windows up and down with the remote. He holds the lock or unlock buttons to adjust them.
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Anyway, just bought an 09 Expedition EL Limited. I ran through every button and function I could find at the dealership and it all worked great.
The next morning I went to roll the driver's window down and it makes a noise like it's going to start, but barely moves - if at all, then stops. Same with the front passenger. Rear windows worked fine. It was freezing and snow-covered at the time.
Yesterday (warmer and sunnier), all windows worked perfectly fine - just like they did at the dealership. The only thing that changed was the temperature.
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My 2009 downshifts hard between 2nd and 1rst gear. Real distinct when stopping at a stop sign. I have 81,000 on it. I looked at older forum's and they said flashing the computer would assist. Just curious if it works for a vehicle with that many miles on it, or if it may be a more serious problem.
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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Well I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
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I managed to scrape the passenger door (mostly just the paint) on my 2014 Prius. I got it back from the shop yesterday and just noticed that I can no longer roll down the right rear window using the controls from the driver's seat. I can still lower the left rear window from the driver's seat, but the only way to open the one on the right is to use the switch on that door.
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Came over the "mountain" tonight elevation is 1,054 (Snickers Gap) anyway cruise was set to 62mph and the truck kept downshifting. Got to 2nd gear about 5500 rpms and was trying to hold 62mph. I turned off cruise and it stayed in second and picked up speed still in second, I finally tried some braking and some acceleration with the gas pedal and it shifted up through to 6th. Truck has 6.2L and 3,300 miles on it. I wasn't really afraid of wrecking or anything but I was convinced it was going to redline in 2nd, it didn't but it was really loud. I was about 10-15 seconds from throwing it in neutral.
Additional info: I have driven this road for 14 years, with cruise control on in everything from a geo metro, (2) different 2010 f-150's 4.6 and a 5.4, ford escape hybrid, and many other vehicles. This is probably the 10th time I have taken the new F-250 in to the city and back it has never reacted this way before, but I have notice it downshifts more than I expect in other situations as well.
So is the downshifting what others are seeing?
6.2L Supercab, longbed 3.73 gears.
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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Windows won't roll up or down in my 2004 F150 , could this be a fuse and where it's located? I can't seem to find it in my manual.
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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Passenger power window will go down but not back up. I replaced the motor, it worked for a month and now it will not go up. Ford replaced the motor. Still doing the same thing. I have plugged the motor on the driver side and it works just fine. I am thinking that there is a wiring problem. Where I can get a wiring schematic?
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Have a 2008 Elantra GLS with 63K miles. A/T was serviced by dealer at 51K. Car now occasionally downshifts from 4th to 3rd when driving between 60 and 70 mph. Happens only when trans is hot (after 2-3 hours on hiway). When it occurs, it searches for the right gear, going back and forth from 3rd to 4th for several minutes before returning to normal. One thing odd is if I shut the car off for 5 minutes after it occurs, it runs fine afterwards. Do I need an ECU update or do I have a A/T problem?
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My passenger side window is getting slower to roll up. Started with it being a tenth of a second slower. Now I'm at about two seconds. It's only a matter of time before it stops all together.
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I picked up some Megan coil overs with plans to install them today, but can't figure out where one part goes. It looks like a spring spacer. The instructions are terrible and make no mention of what it is. My guess is it goes with the rear springs but...? [URL]....
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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Rolled it down yesterday. Won't roll back up. Without hitting any buttons, I hear a click in the door every 15 seconds or so. During these 15-20 seconds, when I hit the power window button, the door makes a clicking noise like it is trying to activate the motor, but nothing happens. Then it clicks, and for the next 15-20 seconds, no click, no noise, no matter how many times I hit the window switch. Then after the next click, I will hear a click again whenever i hit the button, and so on and so on, on and off every 15 seconds. I tried taking apart the switch box and checking the contacts. They were fine.
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My '91 240 races when turned on when motor cold, colder it is the moreso, especially in Park and Neutral till it calms down It's happening under 60 degrees Fahrenheit and big time under 32. Sometimes turning steering wheel sharply will stop this. Is this ECU? Transmission? Belts? There seems too show excess transmission fluid on the dipstick, by the way lately, which may have been that way from accidental overfill and may not be related t this insane racing issue.)
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