IS F (2008-2014) :: Clunky Shifting From 1st To 2nd Gear
Jul 22, 2015
Ok, so in M mode shifts can be a little rough from 2nd to 3rd unless I give it enough gas. It's no big deal and my car has always been like that (owned it since 9/2013). But as of yesterday, shifts have completely changed from 1st to 2nd. It is clunky, extremely quick and lurches forward every time in M mode. It has NEVER done this before and it kinda sucks.
I've read all of the threads regarding tranny fluid, belt squeak, etc. and haven't specifically found anything like this. I haven't done anything to the car except the ELF recall and an oil change about a month ago.
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My 2011 ISF has around 50K miles. Recently I noticed that when I shift into 1st from 2nd, usually on approach to a slower curve or slowing down to a light, there appears to be a distinct shudder. It doesn't happen all the time, and it happens regardless of Sport or normal mode.
Right after it shifts to 1st and the RPMs climb (or so it seems), I get 3-4 distinct back and forth movements .. i.e shudder. I think this is a recent phenomenon, as I know shifting into 1st is usually not very smooth, but I don't think I felt this shudder before.
No codes etc ...everything else normal. Don't think the trans is slipping, as car pulls hard and traction control is always busy. Motor mounts? Car is never tracked and driven spiritedly, but never ever abused or tracked. I do enjoy shifting it.
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When I used to change gears in my car it would feel smooth and precise, but just today when i was shifting in to 2nd, my gears started to feel clunky and like they were getting caught up on something. It feels like I'm not even engaging a gear when i put it into gear. Its so effortless and i don't get that secure feeling that i know i am in gear anymore.
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I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
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For the last few months my truck shifts rough between 2e and 3e gear. However it only does this first thing in the morning, when I leave the house I speed up until the end of the street, then when I let go of the gas it'll rev up a bit and shift from 2e to 3e while making a big clunking noise which I can definitely feel ...
It does it sometimes very rough and sometimes just a little bit. I used to not worry about it but i'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with my trans. Could it have something to do with the slip yoke?
Truck: f150 2009 xlt 4x4 supercab 6,5' box.....
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I just picked up my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost with the 4.10 axle ratio. While in drive, the transmission will not shift into 6th gear until around 65mph. The rpms in 5th gear at this point are around 2300(ish). If driven with Tow/Haul mode on it will shift into 6th at 45mph and lock the converter. If traveling at a speed in drive (no T/H) where you would think it would be in 6th, lets say 50mph on flat ground, and you force the trans into 6th, either by using manual mode or T/H, and then return the transmission to normal drive mode it WILL hold 6th just fine with the converter locked and will even accelerate holding 6th.
If you accelerate more rapidly and the transmission downshifts, it will not return to 6th until forcing it to do so by one of the two ways above. I realize that the truck has adaptive learning strategies, but this doesn't seem right. It also has only 300 miles. Initially I had even thought that this might be some sort of break-in programming, but not anymore.
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You can hear the clunky, groaning noise around 8 and 11 seconds when I turn the steering wheel, making a tight u-turn in an alley way.
What can it be..? I hope it has something to do with my tires since I'm getting new ones today. The current ones are pretty bald.
Quick video clip of noise...
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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Just had a new set of tires and a front end alignment done on my 2008 Santa Fe with 86,000 miles. Now when it is shifting into 4th or 5th gear it feels like your hitting a patch of Ice. The Truck veers off to the right for a quick second. It just seems like you can feel it in the left wheel. Other than that the truck does not pull and drives straight.
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Any way to remove the "beep" sound at redline? i love that it shows the yellow yellow then red but the beep can get annoying.
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My son has a 2007 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 5.4L , when he turns the steering wheel left and right you can hear a clunky sound on the rack and pinion right where the steering shaft connects.
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I just purchased a brand new 2016 LX 570 two weeks ago. It is a beautiful car and I love all the new technology but I am concerned about the transmission gear change between 2nd and 3rd. The car hesitates and vibrates when shifting between second and third gear then levels out. It a little slow and scary pulling out in traffic without just punching it. This is my first LX and just found out that the LX transmission went from 6 speed to 8 on the 2016 model. I called the dealership and they said the car is very new and they have not gotten any reports from Lexus about the transmission hesitating. Taking it in next week for service and have it checked out.
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So I just wanted to ask 2 things.. Am I the only person who purposely shifts at certain rpms from 1st-2nd just to hear the burble/popping out of the exhaust.. I hold it around 3k and the shift and let off the gas and it's a Orchestra of amazing noises that are Oh so addicting. Secondly, are there any negatives to doing this... Or that sometimes I hear the loud thud/pop when slowing down but not every time... What is the true cause of these glorious noises.
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I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
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I bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
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Car is:
1) Warmed up
2) At a standstill
3) In manual mode, 1st gear
4) Traction control is on/normal
5) Sport mode is on/off (doesn't seem to matter for this example)
How to verify:
1) Hit gas, more than 3/4 down
2) Shift above 5500rpm
3) As transmission up-shifts a drive belt squeal is heard.
4) Car otherwise accelerates normally.
This happens on two IS-Fs I've driven, a 2009 and a 2010, with or without the AC on. Is this a common issue? If so, what belt is slipping?
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First it was the whole spark plug debacle. Now it's the "fuel pump module". Story starts a several months back. On a moist day I was headed out and the truck ran very rough, "clunky", like it wasn't getting gas. After 15 miles and a stop truck ran fine. Didn't think much of it and truck ran fine for month or so. I was then away for a couple days and came home to find my truck wouldn't run (started briefly then died). Local mechanic thought it might be a fuel pump issue but then got truck running thinking it might have been a delayed inertia switch in front panel (I had hit a deer a week or 2 prior). Again, not thinking much of it continued to drive truck with no issues for awhile. Then one rainy morning on my way to work the truck was running very rough and "clunky" again. It died several times and finally for good.
After getting it towed to the mechanics, he figured the fuel pump was finally shot. The end to my long story is it was the fuel pump module (luckily a lot cheaper fix than the fuel pump) - half of the housing was gone (corroded away) adn moisture was shorting the pump electronics. Why, if this module is half encased in plastic do the engineers feel the need to encase the other half in metal (appeared to be cast aluminum)??!!????!! Of course it makes sense to have an electrical unit that is mounted underneath the truck where it can collect all the moisture, snow, salt from the road encased in a corrodable metal housing. No no, don't put it all in plastic, just half of the unit. MAKES PERFECT SENSE!! I thought to be and engineer took some sort of brains and common sense. Must be not at Ford. I can't be the only one with this issue and wondering WHY!!! - it must be widespread??
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Starting here to ask first but I currently have the CEL and VSC light both lit and 1st gear is locked out. What is causing this without having the codes read yet? Is it common to get both of these lights simultaneously? Having 1st gear locked out seems very concerning from a mechanical aspect to me, should I have it parked till I get it serviced?
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I've never had this happen before, but today on my way to work during my first and second stop I noticed the car have a jerk when coming to the stop. I immediately thought it felt like the transmission was acting funny so I switched to the gear position view on the dash while at a stop light and noticed the car had placed itself into 2nd gear at a dead stop.
Some background info:
1) I only let the car heat up for 45 seconds max before driving.
2) The indicator light is just my TPMS or whatnot because I have Winter tires.
3) I have the common harsh shift when cold 1-2-3 until its driven for a few minutes.
4) It was -4 Celsius
5) I am in Normal Mode and never ever drive the car hard until it hits 2 bars on oil temp and then almost never drive it fast (why did I even buy an ISF?)
6) The car recently had its service done at Lexus (I denied the rear differential fluid change as I am getting this done at an independent garage.)All other services have been properly maintained since new.
7) The car returned to starting in 1st gear at stop after it warmed up. I am just curious to hear if this is normal or an indicator of a potentially larger issue down the road.
Also off topic but in my old IS350 in winter mode it stated the car in 2nd gear in snow mode. On the ISF snow mode still starts the car in 1st gear (online seems to show it start in 2nd? i.e. top gear etc quotes it does this.)
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I have a 2008 ISF at 41k miles. In stop and go traffic, or starting from a stop and driving causally ( not WOT or even medium throttle) the car will rev up before going into 2nd. It is like the feeling of rolling over a speed bump.
Also in normal or sport mode in D ( not M ) if I WOT , you can feel it jerk before taking off. I don't know if this is normal or not...
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Very strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
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