I took my car to get inspected today and it was rejected because of P0420 and P0430: Both Catalyst system efficiency below... My check engine is also on.
I have the full Meisterschaft exhaust installed (+midpipe) PPE headers and K&N intake. Whats the problem and how can I get this fixed so I can pass the inspection?
A few weeks back I got my ARK exhaust installed with no problems. Due to some personal reasons I had it removed and my stock exhaust reinstalled by a different shop over this past weekend. I've been driving it fine for the past few days but today I noticed the CEL on with codes P0420 and P0430. I hit up the shop to see what was up and he told me he didn't touch anything that should have caused this. What should I do....
View 3 RepliesWe bought the 2010 RX350 a couple of weeks ago and have gotten these codes twice.. I have a good scanner and know what the codes say about Cat's bank 1 and 2 operating below threshold. I know some of you are going to say replace the cat's, others are going to say replace the sensors and neither should be the problem... If it were a cat or sensor, then they would not come in at the identical same time... It has to be something common such as a throttle body, charcoal canister, or another item upstream of the cat's... Not the gas cap either...Maybe a vacuum hose..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 F350 Crew Cab Long bed xl with 128000 miles on it. I just barely bought it from a small dealer and had a check engine light come on for the cats.(P0420 and 0430)
I have spoke with the dealer and he assured me that he would replace the cats. He stated he had O2 sensors replaced and thought he had fixed the problem. Not sure if he replaced all sensors or just the fronts.
He has been avoiding calls lately and will not return my messages. Anyways, My question is what should I be looking for to prevent future cats from going bad. I just ordered a bluetooth OBD 2 scanner and bought the Torque Pro App.
I am not new to working on trucks but they have all been 1995 and older and i am new to anything scanner wise and do not know what I should be monitoring. If I can't get this guy to replace the cats I want to monitor everything to make sure the cats are bad.
BTW, Fuel Mileage is at best 12.3 with an extremely light foot, Driving normal it drops off to about 11.8-12. Is this a normal MPG in these trucks? I have seen post about people getting close to 16 unloaded not smashing throttle?
On another note, I just remembered that my traction control light will come on with no wheel spin at times after starting the truck and driving away.
I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
I have a 2008 Prius that I purchased used last year. It has just shy of 139,000 miles on it. Recently the check engine light came on, and I dropped by AutoZone to have them pull the codes. They are as follows:
C1241
P1121
P3193
I haven't been able to find a full explanation of the codes online, so I need to know what they mean, how much it would cost to fix, and how urgent the repair is. I will be going on a 5 1/2 hour road trip next week, so I want to make sure I'm not going to break my car (or myself!) by doing so with the engine light on.
I have an 05 F-150 Lariat 5.4 and it has been going haywire today. While driving if I hit a hard bump the power will cut off (radio, a/c) and even sometimes the truck. Check engine light came on and I pulled codes P2160 & P0506. Also, when it completely cuts off and I start it back up it says "engine in failsafe mode".
View 1 RepliesMK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
View 3 RepliesI bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
View 5 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
View 14 RepliesThe vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
So I was getting p0420 and p0430. I installed new hi flow cats on and did coil pack 1 & 3 since I was getting misfires there. Erased the codes after all the installs and they stayed off. It's been a little over a month later since the installs and my CEL came back on, scanned it and I'm getting same 2 codes again
View 10 RepliesMy 2007 Outback has had an off-idle stumble since I bought it a year ago. Otherwise runs well and uses less gas than the 2000 Forester it replaced. I've had a smoke test done, cleaned the throttle body, replaced front oxy sensor, and used a variety of gas treatments. I don't trust the local Subaru dealer to work on my car and my local garage has run out of ideas, but suggested MAF sensor may work. Some days it runs better than others. Occasionally I'll see a check engine light P0171 (lean) or P0420 (cat) but it will go weeks between setting those.
View 9 RepliesSo today my CEL came on. I immediately looked at my mileage and I was EXACTLY at 500m past my oil change the other day. I checked the dip stick and lo and behold, it was about 3/4" past the full marker. I took it back to the oil change place and had them drain it down to a good level.
I had driven from NH to NY this week. I filled up my gas tank on my way home from NY. Gas cap was on nice and tight for sure.
The code is still on (not sure how many miles or drive cycles is required) for something to clear. I figured it was perhaps due to too much oil added. I decided a few hours later to take it to AutoZone and grab the diagnostic code. It's a P0420 code (Cat System efficiency below threshold: Air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S, AF Sensor Error, Fuel System Fault, Faulty Catalytic Converter).
My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
I just recently purchased a 2008 ford f350 5.4L gasser, supercab long box. The truck has 167,000km on it. I flew about 700km from my hometown to pick up the truck and drive it home. After driving about 300km I started noticing a few problems.
The engine light codes that have been stored as of now:
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor i think?)
The issue I'm having is that the truck has absolutely no power going uphill or accelerating. If I'm climbing a hill and have the gas pedal pushed in at a steady rate its almost as if the transmission wont shift, and if i push harder on the gas the truck begins to shudder. When the truck is cold it runs normal and climbs hills no problem, but once it heats up the problem returns. Another odd thing I noticed under the hood on my drive home was that they disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel rail pressure sensor and simply plugged the line on a random bolt.
Also, the truck apparently has a cam phaser lockout on it and I dont know if that could be causing the issue? Here's a list of some of the troubleshooting ive done so far.
-checked all fuses(start at the basics eh)
-checked resistance of coils(checked out fine, even after engine was warm)
-pulled spark plug 1 and 5, they both seemed fairly clean, not fowled up
-generally looked over all the vacuum lines, seemed fine couldn't see anything else really out of the ordinary
-while the truck was running I used a temperature gauge to see what the exhaust system was doing. On the drivers side when the truck was warm before the cat I had 140C and after the cat it was 80C(good indication the cat is plugged?) The other side tested fairly consistent.