As I pulled into a parking lot last night, my "check VSC" warning message came on. Simultaneously, the Parking Brake light, ABS light, Traction Control, and VSC lights came on. The car did not go into limp mode though, and the car seems to operate as normal (even when going WOT).
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 ISF with a k&n intake and QTP exhaust cutouts. About a month ago my car died on me and when I restarted it, the car went into limp mode. The "check vsc" light is on along with the traction light and CEL. I took it to my mechanic and he said I needed to replace the MAF sensor and I did. 100 miles later the car went into limp mode again. So I took it to a mechanic that knows Lexus vehicles very well apparently, and he diagnosed it to be my intake. So he replaced it with the stock intake. Now I've driven another 100 miles and the problem has come back again. The car is throwing all kinds of codes when I connect the obd2 scanner to it.
It is throwing p0031, p0037, p0051, p0057, p0102, p1360, p1361, and a whole bunch more.
Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
Just had this happen to me yesterday and cant figure it out. Cruising at normal speeds and shifting into 5th gear at about 2000 rpm. when to apply throttle and the car chocked or slipped then regained power. Almost like it went into limp mode for a second or traction control kicked in. Im not sure what it could be.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L with 170,xxx miles.... My check engine light came on and is showing the codes P0562, P1776, P0871, P0441, P0700, and P0440. While driving, the car jerks and then i only have 2nd gear. If i shut the car off and turn it back on everything runs normal again for a little while. i had my battery and alternator checked and both tested good. What could be causing these codes and why only 2nd gear (Limp Mode)?
View 1 RepliesWas on the highway cruising along and punched it to pass a slower vehicle. As I've done many times before without issue. Got a flashing CEL and it went into what I assume is a type of limp mode. I reduced the throttle input to the point the CEL cleared and full power returned. I did not have to stop the truck and key-off etc. I also made no further attempts to see if it would do it again. What causes that? Kind of annoying to pull out to pass and you hit limp mode.
View 14 Replies2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
2008 sonata 3.3, no reverse however the dash indicates it's in reverse. Code P0733. I understand how an unrelated problem can cause another and wonder if I can eliminated possible problems. Car is in limp mode and stays in second or third gear.
I am about to disconnect, clean and wiggle the connectors for the transmission inner and outer sensors and then find out if I can test the sensors. That is, after I find them.
I'm also on the hunt for anything the TPS sensor might have to do with it. Battery disconnect does not work, even after hours. Is there any way something unrelated like the brake light switch or the inhibitor switch (whatever that is), might be the cause? Valve body?
I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
Bought a brand new F250 6.7 it has 7000 miles in it now and the check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. I have taken it in to the dealership twice they said there is no code they can find and they just reset the check engine light and it does ok for a bit then starts the cycle all over again. It also is only getting about 6.5 mpg....
View 6 RepliesI was driving home. Problems started after pulling away from a 4-way stop. Truck started lunging almost like I was running out of fuel. Then I got a "Transmission Malfunction" in the in dash display. Followed by limp mode. I checked the Faults when I got home. I have the following:
P0720 - Powertrain - Output speed sensor Circuit
P2106 - Powertrain - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power (From what I understand this is associated with limp mode. Not a root of the problem)
P0713 - Powertrain - Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor Circuit High Input
P0722 - Powertrain - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
The vehicle has around 192,000 mi. Replaced cam phasers in upper engine roughly 1000 miles ago and replaced all the bearings in the rear differential roughly 100 mi ago. I haven't messed with anything on the transmission. Checked fluid level and color of transmission fluid.
Just fully rebuilt transmissin 4r75 replaced all planet gears clutches etc. Now with it all back together the speedo does not work on truck goes into limp mode. I replaced the vss sensor an no luck
View 8 RepliesI just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
The last few days I've noticed an extremely rough ride when in Normal Mode. In sport + mode I noticed a bit of a smoother ride where the bumps weren't as harsh. Which is the complete opposite of what's supposed to happen. My tire pressure is 36 and reaches 39-40 when hot. No clue why this is happening, should I be worried ? Should I lower the tire pressure a little maybe to much air is causing the harsh ride? Or should I reset the battery because my car is stuck in sport + mode when it should be normal.
View 5 RepliesTwo weeks ago, I purchased a pre owned/certified 2014 GS 350 F Sport and about a week later my parents purchased a pre owned/certified 2014 GS 350. When driving the GS 350 in normal mode, my parents, my son, and I find the acceleration to be slower than that of my F Sport (also driven in normal mode). When we asked the dealer about the different feel of acceleration, they insist that the acceleration should be the same as the engines are identical. The acceleration in the GS 350 in normal mode feels like acceleration in my F Sport in Eco mode.
View 5 RepliesReplaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
Our 2002 1.8t wagon has developed an intermittent "no crank" issue. All dash lights operate as normal, but when you turn the key to crank, it doesn't. The dash lights change, as if it were cranking, but what it seems like is that the clutch lockout is not engaged - ie, it acts just like you are not pressing the clutch. But, you are.
I can't seem to find any consistent thing that causes it to start - I've tried quite a few things:
- stomping on the floor by the CCM module.
- jamming down the clutch
- pumping the clutch.
One thing, (i.e., it worked once) was cranking around on the steering wheel. Anyway, after half-a-dozen or a dozen tries, all while whacking aound on various parts of the car, it will eventually start. If you turn off the car, it will start right back up again.
So, this might be able to be described as a "cold" issue, but that's not entirely confirmed too. It's my wife's car, and when she tries to go somewhere with a 2yo and a 5 yo, and the car won't start. The obvious possible things are the clutch lockout relay, the ignition switch, perhaps the CCM - but there's no wetness on the floor or anything. Any easy way to check the clutch lockout? The dash makes it pretty impossible to get under there.
I should add, no MIL, no OBD codes. Don't have a vagcom, just a regular obd2 scanner.
So i noticed, when in auto mode, whether sport mode is on or off, it does the same thing. If i floor it from a stand still, the transmission takes noticeably longer to go from 1st into 2nd then from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. 1st to 2nd takes like a good second, kinda like this:
1st VROOOOM.....................2nd VROOOM..3rd VROOOM..4th.....etc..
If I drive it in manual mode, then it shifts just as fast. So this only happens in auto.
I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
Is it normal to have variable fan speeds when Ac is on? I understand on WOT Ac deactivates on some cars but when it happens I'm just cruising along coming to a stop, the fan speed increases.
View 1 RepliesI've owned my 2011 IS-F for a couple of month now. I know the Sport Mode give the car crisper throttle response and it shifts quicker. Does the Sport Mode do anything else?
View 14 Replies