IS F (2008-2014) :: Car Stinks When Turn On Air Conditioner
Mar 4, 2015
I bought a model IS 250 F Sport 2015 lexus in early December. A few weeks note that the car stinks when I turn on the air conditioner. The odor comes from the air conditioner and lasts a minute. I took the car to the service center and they told me I had to put a carbon air filter, but the car already had the factory one, so the service center will set a new one. The problem continues especially when I leave the car in the street during the day with plenty of sunshine.
The service center gave me some instructions, open the vents for air from outside to turn the car and before shutdown. But this solution does not satisfy me, I think they need to fix the root problem and not propose solutions like these suggestions. I do not pay for a car with bad smell. What do you think I should do? Return the car to the dealer?
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I have noticed that on my 2012 5.0 Screw that the A/C isn't very cold. It is no where near as cold as my last truck, or any of a number of late model cars I have driven. If it's over 85 and I have it set to auto (70 degrees) it will never get there and just run full tilt the whole day. Even if you select Max A/C and blow it on you you will never have to turn the fan down from being cold as in other cars.
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The AC in my 03 Corolla stopped working. A Mechanic originally diagnosed it as low in Refrigerant - brought it up to full charge. Stopped working again in a couple of days. I took it to a different mechanic who confirmed that there was no leak and it had a full charge. He could make the compressor come on by shorting a connector (located near the compressor). Otherwise the compressor does not come on when the AC is turned on from the switch inside. The blower fan works OK. The fuse is OK. The relay works OK.
The mechanic tells me that the only thing could be that the PCU ( the computer?) has gone bad and that only the dealer can replace it and reprogram it. The car has done 120,000 miles and I am wondering if its worth spending that much money to get it fixed -- that is if the PCU is the real problem. Could it be something else? Is there a way to get a used PCU and have it installed by a mechanic other than the dealer?
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My driver's seat heater won't shut off even though the I have it off. It is only the lower seat back that is on. So I have been sweating while driving around due to this. Is there any quick fix? pull a fuse? disconnect the heat underneath the seat?
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Why my traction control light stays on? just installed sikky headers. The light will not turn off no matter how long i hold the traction button. Could it be a sensor? No VSC or CEL only traction control light...
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I have noticed an uneven feel ( slightly ) when I turn hard left vs right. Its firmer when I turn to the left than the right. From the magazine issues I used to read when I look at directional skid pad results the right turn skid pad results are always lower than the left turn because of the weight of the driver.
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My wife has a 08 F-150 LIMITED and at random times gets a raw fuel smell through the air conditioner ducts. It will happen after we fill it up and it will happen @ a 1/2 tank. No smell under the hood and no visible leaks from anywhere. Pretty important issue to me.
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'12 Golf base and my AC stinks when its turned on. 15,900 miles.
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My A/C unit stinks on start up.. smells like sweaty socks.. I took out the cabin air filter and it was dirty so I vacuumed it and put it back in.
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2003 Matrix XR, 89K, well maintained by old owner, just about to become mine.Took it to old owner's mechanic for pre-sale checkup. He said humming noise was rear differential and replaced it.
Now it pulls to the right when driving, to the left when braking (also throbs), and generally just feels like total crap to drive. There's also a noise that I hear as sort of a ...rough grinding/roaring sound? Seems to be from the back.
Details: the hum increased in pitch as wheel speed went up. Nothing else changed it - not going from dirt to pavement, drive to neutral, uphill to down, straight to cornering. Otherwise, everything felt fine - handled really nicely, that's why I wanted to buy it.
When I picked it up from the shop after the differential implant I drove it about a mile, flipped out at the way it felt, and took it right back; it was near closing time. Kid put it up on the lift, looked and said it was a front wheel bearing and to bring it back next morning. This morning the still-owner picked it up, test drove it and said "Yep, feels all loosey-goosey," brought it in to the shop, and different guy says "it's the alignment, bring it in tomorrow."
Alignment? Wheel bearing? Why all of a sudden? Maybe the differential is bad or not installed properly? Why am I the only one thinking this? Also, they lost one of the springs to the bit at the front where the exhaust joins on to the engine so there's a big loud exhaust noise, which they didn't notice when they test drove it.
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My heater core must have sprung a leak this week. Not that I need heat in this weather but just the smell of it while running the A/C just stinks. I know I am going to have to replace it myself but just for S&G, what would a dealer charge to replace it?
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I have a 1999 mercury cougar and recently my acceleration has gone down huge, when i try to go onto a highway my car starts to chug, i have to push the pedal to the floor for it to actually start picking up speed a little faster, and once in a while i smell a sulfur smell!
Another symptom I have is my engine heat goes up 3/4 of the way when this happens! Also once in a while after driving while its hot the car starts to shake lightly then shakes a lot until i get off the highway and bring my speed from 110km/h to about 60k?
Engine codes: p1744
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EGR marbles -- the chunks of carbon that come loose from the EGR cooler / intake manifold and stick the EGR valve open?
I've been getting these on 3 recent occasions, maybe 100 miles or so apart. The truck loses pretty much all power below 2000 rpm, smokes and stinks bad until I pull the EGR valve and dump these out. I'm trying to decide if I need to dig in and do a new EGR cooler and oil cooler. I've read the FordDoctorsDTS article suggesting these are caused by and coming from a leaking EGR cooler (possibly only when very hot) over time.
I'm not currently losing any coolant that I can tell, but was losing some a few months ago (during warmer weather), but also had a leaky heater valve that I replaced at the time. Not sure if the leaky valve would account for the total coolant loss (I lost over a gallon in a few weeks).
Here's the additional details:
- 2004 Excursion with just over 109K miles
- Replaced faulty EGR valve (was sticking open) about 300 miles ago
- Replaced stock turbo with new powermax turbo 300 miles ago. Old was rusty and pitted with sticking unison ring.
- I just did a total coolant flush, oil cooler back-flush, Restore and Restore+ and added new coolant filter
- Replaced thermostat during coolant flush. ECT stays pretty close to 190 degress when warmed up.
- ECT/EOT delta is mostly between 15 to 18 degrees, sometimes slightly lower or higher. Not much change after the coolant flush, but may be slightly improved.
- I've been doing pretty regular wide open throttle tests during recent test drives with the new parts above (I'm thinking this may have broken some of this stuff loose).
Here's today's marbles. They're all dry and will crumble if crushed. They are dull gray on the inside - not metallic as they kind of look here............
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So I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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Car clicks when I turn the key , all lights and electrical come on but the engine will not turn over....
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So this afternoon I went to start my IS and it didn't go to well. When I tried to start it, it didn't turn over at all. It made a loud screeching noise that seemed to come from the bottom of the engine bay. I don't think it's the battery because all the electronics were turning on fine until eventually everything just stopped working. The dealership has it now but I wanted to start this discussion to see what are the thoughts out there. I just bought it two months ago and it has just 2k miles on it.
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I'm currently looking for some fog lights. It seems that the iJDMToy lights are popular on here. The only thing I don't like about them is that they're either hooked up to the DRL or the headlights. Hooked it up to a button or switch? If not, are there any fog lights for a 2015 IS350 F-Sport that can be manually turned on/off?
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Only have had the car for a couple of weeks. One problem that I have is that I don't know how to turn off the nav once the address has been entered and navigation started. My family changes their mind all the time and wants to go some some other destination in the middle of a trip. Unless a new destination is put in the nav keeps directing to the previous destination. How does one just simply turn it off?
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Over the course of the last week my '09 has become increasingly difficult to turn while at lower rpm. When going through a drive thru or backing out of the driveway it sometimes feels like there's no power steering. -especially when tuning right. Checked her out, nothing leaking, though the hi pressure steering line does appear to be wet near the connections. Rack boots appear a little damp too but are still in tact and fully functional.
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