IS F (2008-2014) :: Backfire Or Popping Noise After Deceleration With Car
May 8, 2015
Getting backfire or popping noise after deceleration with our cars. It didn't do it before with oem exhaust, just wondering if we're going to get a little bit from my new joe z exhaust, or do I have a leak somewhere with my installation. Or do I just need it break in a little more. How do I check for leaks , Do I just need to ramp the car and check all the flanges for where the exhausts bolts up and check for alignment issues.
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I have a newly rebuilt engine on my 1965 Austin Healey 3000. When the engine is cold it makes a popping/backfire noise. After the engine has warmed up for 10-15 minutes, it doesn't make the noise anymore. See this video [URL] .....
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Exhaust systems/setups that make the MOST popping and gurgle sounds DURING shifts and deceleration. I know decel popping happens when there is less air in the combustion chamber and any unburnt fuel in there will burn at a much slower rate, slow enough that some of it is still burning as the exhaust valve opens causing the pop. So, with that said...which system out of the box would most closely fit the bill without getting too technical?
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So I bought LOLM3's old Borla a while back & everything's been great except CEL P0137 & the VSC light keeps popping up on me every 30-40 miles. I have a 12' with 20k miles on the odo.
P0137: O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE (BANK 1 SENSOR 2)
It has secondary cats welded on along with these type of O2 defoulers so the O2 sensors can reach the re-located bungs (except they're welded, not screwed on):
I've swapped sensor 1's with bank 2's sensor & even went ahead & replaced it with a brand new one, same code keeps popping up . Resetting the light is getting old & inspection time is coming up!
There are no audible exhaust leaks as far as I can tell, would a minor leak throw the CEL?Should I cut out the secondary cats & replace with straight piping like how the exhaust was originally made?
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So I just wanted to ask 2 things.. Am I the only person who purposely shifts at certain rpms from 1st-2nd just to hear the burble/popping out of the exhaust.. I hold it around 3k and the shift and let off the gas and it's a Orchestra of amazing noises that are Oh so addicting. Secondly, are there any negatives to doing this... Or that sometimes I hear the loud thud/pop when slowing down but not every time... What is the true cause of these glorious noises.
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I have a 2003 Explorer EB that on deceleration of all speeds, the drivers side rear axle is popping or clicking. Could this be a CV joint? It does not happen on acceleration.
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I have a 2011 f150 xl with the basic climate system. I'm having a couple issues with my hvac system. Initially when I took over payments on this truck I was getting a little popping noise under the dash that would go away after a couple pops. I took the bezel off to look at the radio and how it was mounted for a separate issue when I put everything back together I started the truck and now that popping is constant (it is the blend motor actuator, I've already determine that and have a new one coming) the other issue I got is that now the ac will only blow through defrost no matter what button I push. When I start up it will blow out the defrost like the flap is in default then it will blow out of the dash for a few seconds and then go back to blowing out of the defrost. I still have speed control tho I don't have 1 ,which I didn't have before that, and I haven't tried temp yet but I'm assuming it still works. Do the newer trucks still use vacuum to control the flaps or is it all electronic? I've noticed when I look at the actuators they all have a plug end instead of a vacuum port. And would the defrost vent issue be a dash control issue or would it be the actuator for that one a
s well?
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I've read alot of info about the 4WD system on the F150's, and I'm having trouble diagnosing what might be going on with mine.
When I put my truck in 4HI (or 4LO), I get a popping sound that seems to come from the front middle/front drivers side when going at speeds around 20-25 and over. I don't experience any loss in traction (that I can tell) or power, but the popping is very loud and noticeable (passengers can hear it clearly).
My problem is a little different than most, as their issues with popping seem to happen when they are not in 4WD, where mine is only when in 4WD. I replaced the IWE solenoid today (wanted to anyway to get the updated casing/shroud) and the problem stayed. I also disconnected the vacuum lines at the solenoid and drove - no noise. I then kicked in 4WD on the switch, and the noise started, which leads me to think it is not vacuum related.
I am kind of lost as to what may be going on. I would think something where teeth broke, etc. would make noise all the time in 4WD, not intermittently or at certain speeds. The noise sounds almost like popcorn popping. I went up the same hill about a dozen times today, and it happened maybe 5-6 times. I don't hear it often (if at all) with speeds below 20 MPH. I can switch in and out of 2WD, 4HI, and 4LO all day with no issues, as well.
The only modifications to the front end have been a 2.5 inch leveling kit, and the only other issues I notice in the front end is a shaking when on the highway, that seems to go away after a while of driving at the same speed. I recently had a front end alignment, and the only thing the tech mentioned was that I will need ball joints in the next 6-8 months (but he said they weren't bad).
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I have a 08 r32, hearing a popping noise that sound like its coming from fuel tank. When sitting not running in garage, bout 15 to 20 seconds between pops. Maybe evap system? Just notice after filling up with gas.
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Alright, so about a month ago I was driving when I heard a terrible noise sounded like a pop can stuck between a bike tire coming from the front end. I figured this was the dreaded noise most folks hear when the 4wd system isn't getting enough vacuum.
It did this for about two days, even after replacing the IWE solenoid, then it just stopped and I haven't heard it since. Me being on the cautious side, I'm a bit worried. I haven't jacked the truck up, but I did (brace yourself) lay under it while my buddy drove slowly over, there was no unusual movement.
Question is, if I had to replace anything, what exactly would it be and how much am I looking at? My warranty will be up in about a month or so and Ford has been less than spectacular with repairs thus far so I'd like to go ahead and fix it myself
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So I'm having a tailgate issue. When I open my tailgate, sometimes the internal spring wants to keep it up, rather then letting it open down. It also makes an odd popping noise during operation from time to time......I don't see or feel anything broke in it.
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Hear a small pop in the cab when I am turning left pulled left wheel everything looks fine. Ball mount maybe, I don't want to tear into it at this point.
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Wife tells me last evening while in gas station fuel lid on side of truck made a popping noise and lid now just flops back and forth and does not stay shut. I haven't looked yet but is this common problem and can i fix or dealer job. 2004 F150 XLT ....
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I have a 2005 ford f150 supercab 4x4, and around feb I replaced all the ball joints my self, and now recently when back with the wheels turned turned to the left and then put it in drive and turn the wheels all the way right and give it has to take off there is a popping noise that comes from the driver side front wheel and it just does it once I take off and quit . I've looked and everything and cant see anything that would cause this. And know when I put it in park and it rolls forward I can hear a popping noise that sounds likes it coming from the rear end. I had my rear rebuilt, with new pinion bearing and race, a new axle on the pass side with bearing and the shop told me that it the driver side is questionable on the axle but it has new bearing also, they also told me that it needs a carrier case cause it had groves wore in it where the axle bearings wore out so much. at the time I could afford to have them to replace the carrier case. what would cause the popping from the front end and now the popping in the rear end.
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I have an 08 F-150 5.4. When sitting still or moving, and turning the steering wheel to the right and only the right past center, there is a popping type noise somewhat like a screw driver down a washboard (for those who'll know what that is). I replaced the ball joints because I saw a slight amount of play, but the noise is still there.
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2008 F150 4.2l Popping noise cannot detect source. When the truck gets warm it makes popping noise while driving or parked with engine shut off. Noise is getting louder. This truck has about 50,000 miles on it."
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I have a 2016 is350. I just took off my is250 exhaust and installed it onto the 350. It is an invidia axle back paired with a tsudo midpipe. Since I have made the switch I have noticed several times after braking and coming to a complete stop within a couple seconds the exhaust "pops" usually 1 time and it is fairly loud. This did not happen on the 250. What is concerning to me is that it doesn't sound like normal exhaust popping/gurgling when slowing down or downshifting it is more of a sudden loud single pop after coming to a stop.
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For some time I have known the coils are going bad and cause occasional misfires but recently something new is added. Backfires and balking down to not moving. codes were po307 po300po430. the reader tells me the likely cause would be the vct solenoids. Also they offer a set of 8 coils at autozone with lifetime guarantee. Are these any good? I have read on here to beware of cheep coils. 2006 f150 5.4 miles is 119,000 have not changed spark plugs yet.
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I have a 2006 ford f 150 with a 5.4 Triton 3v engine and every time I floor it and the engine reaches 3000 rpms the truck backfires and looses power. Sometimes it wont pass 3000 rpm it just stays there and backfire and have no power. Sometimes the check engine light flashes...... I took the coils off and looked at them and they all looked pretty clean. Also the truck idles rough and sometimes when it cruising at low rpms, and I give it a little gas the truck will randomly misfire and shake hard. also the engine sounds like a diesel engine........ What might be wrong.
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I have a new-to-me 2008 LS600hl I recently purchased with just over 60k miles. When I test drove the car I noticed some vibration that the dealer and I presumed to be tires or even warped rotors, however after a balance and resurface (they paid for) the problem persisted. I then set out to isolate it further my getting up to 60mph and letting the car coast down to 35 several times. There is a very pronounced shudder in the driveline- almost like a washboard road effect, most noticeably as it drops through the 40's mph. I can completely eliminate this if I drop the drivetrain in neutral- therefor it has to be in regeneration or the transmission.
That said, the dealer had a Lexus engineer look at it. His assessment was uncertain, as there are no other LS600's around to compare it too. They would like the problem to be more pronounced so that they can be sure where the problem is coming from and asked me to drive it an additional 5000 miles.
The mechanic and service tech agree with me there is a problem, but are now somewhat bound by their engineer telling them to wait 5000 miles. I'd really like to have something else to support my claim. The car has a week of warranty left on the drivetrain when I purchased it- so the problem is documented.
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2011 LX57O. There is one moderate annoyance with it: its brakes. The pedal travels about 2" before I can feel any meaningful braking or deceleration, and after those 2" the braking force becomes quite disproportionate to the additional pedal travel, may be another 0.5", it brakes quite hard. So, it has become increasingly difficult to brake consistently. Dealer service has told us "this is normal."
We had the brake fluid changed twice already, and pedal feel improves noticeably after each change and gets worse from that point on. Our 2000 model Land Cruiser pedal feel is superb, all stock, and it is much more rewarding to drive and drive consistently.
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