IS F (2008-2014) :: All Of A Sudden It Seems Like Car Lost Half Of Its Power
Jul 8, 2014
Bought the ISF about 6 months ago. I knew the previous owner who didn't abuse it. Was driving in 95 degree weather. All of the sudden it seems like the car lost half of its power. It still goes but doesn't pull like it use to. I checked for engine codes (none). Disconnected the battery for 5 minutes (no change) It seems like the throttle doesn't open into the secondary switch on the floor. Its just an even gradual response versus the kick once you get on it.
Also its a 2008 model
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My daughters boyfriend was driving his 98 Expedition this evening and it died. From what he is telling me, he said it just all of a sudden lost power. As he was coasting to the side of the road, he said the RPMs where fluctuating then died. It cranks but won't start. No "theft" light flashing. All fuses under the hood are good. Turning the key, can not hear the fuel pump pressurizing.
No pressure at the Schroeder valve on the fuel line. While trouble shooting, found where someone had done a hack job of splicing the ground battery cable, wire was just folded over to hold together. As we were towing it home, they said there was a beeping coming from behind the glove box, which is where the PCM is I think. Kinda stuck on whether it could be PCM or fuel pump.
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2000 jetta 1.8t ... Yesterday driving home from work (1.5 hr drive and it was 25+ degrees) my car died on the highway just before I made it home. Just lost power all of a sudden with no warning signs before and no overheating. No lights came on I just felt sudden loss of power and pulled over and turned the ignition off and it wouldn't start again. Just makes a high pitched whining noise and won't crank over. I just found out the other day that both O2 sensors need replacing but I can't see that being the reason.
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So I was traveling thru the grapevine on the 5 Fwy and no problems. Made it to the top didn't over heat. Then all of a sudden it lost power. Pulled over and it stopped running. Won't start. Fuel is pumping, I took off the fuel filter and turned ignition on and it filled up.
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I was reading about a couple of people with AFE filters with missing air box clip(s).
I lost a clip too after putting in AFE however I don't have a broken tab and I can't be sure it wasn't the idiot tire installation guy that was messing with my air box for a courtesy check that might have screwed it up. I didn't notice any significant difference in effort closing the stock box after AFE. I guess I'll gorilla tape the second one down just to be sure.
For those of you with lost clips, what are you doing to compensate since you can't buy just the clip? Is this really an AFE issue or just a coincidence?
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2014 Subaru Crosstrek lost power on the highway. Dealership unable to provide definitive reason. Car key code error is what the computer came up with. Do not feel confident driving my new car any longer. Is it possible a second key inside the car could interfere?
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We have a 14' Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo that has lost power several times upon coming to a stop. The vehicle will lose the "D" in the gear selector window in the cluster, a yellow triangle light will come on, and we lose all gear selector lights on the shifter in the center console. The vehicle will stop fine but upon throttle, power is extremely sluggish and then braking is limited as well. The car will limp in this mode until we stop the vehicle and reset with an ignition cycle. We might go a month in between occurrence. Looking for similar incidents and fixes if any. Vehicle off to dealer this week. Hopefully it has a hard code stored.
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I have 163,000 + on my 2009 fx4. Recently I have lost my take off power and passing power. I have the manifold leak but the dealership says that's not the problem. Took it in twice to the dealership and once to an independent and nobody knows what's wrong. No codes are showing. Had a dealership tune-up at about 120,000 miles. Need some starting points cause it's very annoying and unsafe. I tow alot and the "get up and go" is gone.
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Just a note to mention that last Friday my fiance was driving her'13 F150 with Ecoboost (73,000 mi) and heard a "loud" pop when accelerating then engine lost power. She called me so I had her restart it and all seemed fine- but drove 1/2 mile and same thing. Called Ford roadside service- got a tow within 30 min to dealer down road.
Turns out they had to replace the throttle body. Fortunately I have the Ford Extended Warranty thru 125,000. This was the second significant failure for the truck- first was a leaking A/C Evaporator which required pulling the entire dash. I won't keep this truck beyond the extended warranty.
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I have a 2011 f150 eco, i was having trouble with the turbos building boost and dumping to early, kept surging. I took it to my dealer so they ordered the deflector plate and intercooler, i took it in on weds and just picked it up today after they installed those parts and reprogrammed the computer with the latest calibration, this truck runs like a dog now, seems like it lost all the power it used to have? I called my dealer and am taking it back Monday for them to look at it again!
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On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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Just hasn't been my luck lately guys. Last night was around 4 F out, taking a left at an intersection and lost power. Though it might be the TC kicking in as it was a bit icy out, but no indication of that on the dash. Then the "service engine" wrench showed up for a second on the display.
This was followed by the airbag light turning on, and the truck going into some kind of limp mode. The speedo indicated "0 MPH" though I was running about 2k RPMs in 5th.
My display showed this:
I couldn't force a downshift with the throttle, or get one from manual mode. I slowed down and pulled over at a safe place, shut the truck off and restarted. Hasn't happened since then.
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I drive an 08 f-350 with 120k no tune or deletes..(yet). I was driving home yesterday when I all of a sudden I have a lack and power. I then notice i have no boost at all. I heard an exhaust leak and instantly checked my boots on inter-cooler pipes....
After farther inspection, the bolt fairy came and I am missing some bolts on my up pipe where it meets turbo. Is this break in vacuum system the reason I'm having no boost? What is easiest way to get to up pipes without removing cab? Where did the bolts go? I got to get this fixed because I need truck to get around town.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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I'm driving a 2008 Highlander, but this question applies to almost any car, I think. On a couple of occasions the Highlander has lost power, and I've lost braking and steering ability. Each time this happened I was going at slow speeds and was able to stop without a nasty problem then restart the car. But what if this happens and I really need to brake? Three related questions:
(a) Are power brakes going to stop the Highlander even when it has lost power?
(b) If not, will the parking/emergency brake be useful?
(c) If the answers to (a) and (b) are "No", what should I do?
Of course, I'd love to know why Highlander lost power, but my Toyota dealer was not able to replicate the problem, even after driving the SUV 100+ miles (the two occasions it happened to me were separated by about 5000 miles of driving).
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I have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
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I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
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I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
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2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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Having issues with the fuel injectors on the 2014 IS250? Gas was pouring out of the top of the engine all of a sudden? Lexus is stating they have never heard of this before and its numbers 6 and 8 that had a manufacture issue.
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