Hyundai - Tucson :: 2011 - Gas Pedal Doesn't Always Make The Car Go
May 17, 2011
When I'm cruising along in my 2011 Hyundai Tucson and lift my foot off the gas to slow down, then give it gas again, the rpms rev but the car acts as if it's in neutral for a couple of seconds...It doesn't speed up. This is intermittent but becoming more frequent. What's up with that?
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Just started to leak, evidence on the ground. No noise when turning or driving. The shop said I needed entire rack and pinion but only put the car on lift no other testing. Is this urgent meaning need to get fixed tomorrow? Do I need an entire rack and pinion? Can parts get fixed in the power steering and not the entire thing? They quoted me $1575.00 but I found the rack/pinion part online for $350.00.
I don't drive the car much why did this start?
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2006 Tucson shuts off sometimes when I pull into my driveway. It starts right back up and it doesn't happen all the time. I have replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors with no luck.
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What could be causing my radio to shut down after five seconds? If it was the fuse, it wouldn't come on at all. I suspect the amp/power supply. What else could it be? I think all of my radio stations have been reset too. 2009 Hyundai Tucson.....
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I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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Hyundai Tucson 2005 sat outside for 10 days in summer heat and two days of thunder and lighting. I am original owner and this car has always started and runs great. After sitting for 10 days, it would not start. The motor turned well by the starter but no ignition. Towed to my mechanic and explanation was the electronic control memory was wiped clean. It took two hours of reprogramming and $170.00 to get it working. There was no need to replace any electrical components and at present the car is running fine. My question is what caused this? How could an on-board computer memory spontaneously be erased, and will this trouble reappear down the road?
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Just had a new timing belt put in with water pump. Drove it home and the temp gauge flew up to red zone. Took it back they said air pocket in system. Bled the system. Drove home and same thing happened. Nothing changed. Temp gauge elevates past normal and into red zone when I idle or drive slow without air conditioning on. The weird thing if the air conditioning is on the gauge stays at normal longer. What is the issue? Is it a bad water pump or thermostat? Or something else.
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My TPMS light comes on about 75% of the time. (That's not the light for low pressure.) I took it in to the dealer once and they replaced the valve stem in one tire. It continued to come off and on intermittently. This time the dealer said they needed reprogrammed. It still continued. This time, they said there was no evidence of an error message while running diagnostics. They told me to just ignore it from now on.
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Ive got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 111k miles. I purchased the car new. For the past several months the brakes make a crunch or creaking sound when the pedal is being pressed OR released. The funny thing is it only happens when driving forward. When I apply the brakes while reversing, the brakes are silent. I did a pad slap at 68k and have taken everything apart, cleaned and re-lubed to no avail. The sound can be heard at the front wheels when someone else works the pedal while the car is parked. Pads have about 50% thickness. Pads? Calipers, master cylinder?
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Over a period of several months, my 2008 Tucson began experiencing a series symptoms, which at the time, I didn't realize were related:
The stereo would occasional freeze up. It would still play, but the volume or channels couldn't be adjusted without restarting the vehicle. The washer fluid motor stopped working. This was a continuous failure.The check airbag light came on and stayed on.
One morning, several months after the first symptom appeared, I went outside to find the hazard lights turning on and off randomly. The car would not start. I had the battery tested. It was drained, but not defective. After putting the charged battery in , the car still would not start. I had it towed to the dealer.
Immediately after the car was taken off the tow truck, it started, the check engine light was off and the washer fluid motor was working. The diagnostic computer found no codes. The dealer cleaned and reattached the ground strap, and replaced the airbag pods as a precaution.
The car ran fine for several months, but then the radio and check airbag light problem started to appear again.
I took it to my regular mechanic this time. He could not find anything wrong, but gave me a new battery to try as a troubleshooting measure.
After a few months, the problems are now starting again.
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The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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I seem to be having a front end noise that only started up a few weeks ago.. The suspension doesn't make any noise over small bumps, only for larger ones. It makes the most noise when pulling into a drive way or something with a steeper grade from a flat street.
The noise I am experiencing sounds more like a scraping. It's not the power steering pump and it's not the brakes. Also, nothing is under the car that would cause this type of noise. It doesn't click or sound like a CV joint, I know what that sounds like. It also has no affect on any other performance of the car. I have tried jumping/pushing down on the car and it cannot seemed to be re-produced. Where I can start looking?
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I have a pretty bad oil leak from front valve cover but whats odd is that it suddenly stopped showing low on my dip stick. Now it ALWAYS says a quart overfull no matter how much oil is leaking out. Also after driving for awhile it gets a terrible knock. There is no smoke however and engine runs like normal.
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra.
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From the first day i bought this car i had a strange noise coming under the hood. Every time i leave my car for at least 2 hours parked and then started, when i do a few meters i hear a noise like a hydraulic valve comes in place and my brake pedal does a small movement. After that everything is normal.
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My car is a 93 Hyundai Excel with the automatic transmission. The donor car was a 94 Excel with a manual transmission. This instrument cluster had the rare tach so that is why it was to go in mine. Everything I have read on the Hyundai forums said it is 100% plug and play regardless of year or transmission. The upgraded instrument cluster worked in the donor car, but in mine nothing works. Fuel gauge goes to full but that's about it (my tank is almost empty). What would cause this? I've checked the printed circuit board, fuses, everything.
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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I recently (1.5 months ago) had my clutch replaced because my clutch pivot ball was making noise and with 70000 miles on the clutch, the mechanic suggested replacing the entire thing. The clutch works beautifully, except that just recently my clutch pedal has started to make a squeak/ creak noise. It's not very loud, although it seems louder when it's particularly hot and muggy. It sounds like it is coming from the pedal and it makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off. What might be causing this?
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I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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During recent cold/ice spell, went to use my rear wiper and heard a pop (there was ice around the wiper base), then the wiper was flipping all over the place. Now I can hear the motor running but the wiper doesn't move. Plus, I can easily move it around by hand - no resistance. Do I have to replace the whole motor or is there possibly a gear or linkage between the motor and arm that stripped or popped away, so that can be fixed? 2002 Hyun Accent.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
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