I have a 97' hyundai tiburon, I have multiple misfires that are p301 302 304 and rich airflow. I have changed the coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and the MAF sensor. Basically my car doesn't accelerate fast or go over 40(max), it putters when i try to accelerate.
View 1 RepliesOur 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
View 10 RepliesI have a 92 Dodge Spirit 2.5L non turbo. I have been getting horrible fuel mileage. Around 17. I have given it a full tune up, including replaced the distributor and hall effect sensor. Why my fuel economy is shot?
View 3 RepliesWas looking to get some input on possible reasons why I'm getting bad fuel economy. I have a 2003 Jetta TDI with 335 000kms and over the past few months have gone from roughly 1000km/tank (5.3l/100km) to about 700kms per tank (6.7l/100km). The cars timing is spot on. I've changed the air filter. Checked intercooler and maf all of which seem to be fine. I have a VCDS and have gone through many of the values and everything seems to be running fine except for excess pressure.
The map reading is spiking to 2500mbar at about 2800 rpm under full load. Specs on the vagcom say it should be around 2000mbar max. Power is fine and its not smoking other than on start up which on cold morning ( everyone morning here in Canada) seems to stutter quite a bit while idling for the first minute or two. I realize winter gas along with winter tires etc can equate for quite a bit of fuel economy loss but i just cant see losing 300kms / tank.
My 2001 L.L.Bean Edition H6-3.0 is losing power & MPG on the fwy. Sometimes it will feel like something is holding it back or dragging. I've checked the brake calipers and they're not sticking, changed the air filter, oil & filter, transmission fluid, and still cannot find the problem. I've overfilled the gas tank and read this can damage the charcoal canister. Will a saturated charcoal canister cause a drop in power and MPG? What should I check out next?
View 10 RepliesWhen i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
View 4 RepliesI am not a mechanic by any means, but have picked up a lot of stuff over the years. I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata with a 4 cylinder engine. Several days ago while going up a steep hill I lost power and my check engine light came on. This has happened before when my coil went bad so I figured it would be a breeze fixing it. I limped it home and ran the code. Sure enough it came back as cylinder 1 misfire. This vehicle uses 2 coils so I swapped them to try and get the problem to follow, but it did not. I have tried a new spark plug, new wires, and swapped injectors without success. There is still no activity on cylinder 1.
I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.
Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?
Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
So, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
Noticed a loss in fuel economy after a CAI install??
View 10 RepliesAfter my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Chrysler Town & Country FWD with 3.8L V6. Recently, I had an error code of MISFIRE CYL 5. I changed my spark plugs and added some injector cleaner to fuel tank with no results. Then I replaced my ignition coil and the misfire stopped (according to engine computer after reset and smoother engine). While it was misfiring, the gas mileage was reading about 10-11 mpg city. I changed my oil and air filter, switching to all 10w-30 synthetic oil. Since then, my mpg reads around 8 mpg! Before the misfire, I would get 17 mpg in the city.
One other issue that coincides is a 10-12" long thin vacuum hose near the engine snapped and I replaced it with a common rubber hose. The hose I replaced it with was at least twice inside diameter. I think I need to get the reducer/thin hose setup from a dealer. If the vac hose would be reducing my fuel economy by 7 mpg? Or did i screw something else up when changing the oil and coil? The engine seems to be running smoothly and I'm having no noticeable problems aside from paying for a gallon of gas that takes me 8 miles!!
2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon w/ ~ 78K miles. For the past several months it has been living in the garage and mostly been used to drive to and from the grocery store once every 2 weeks. I did let the maintenance lag longer than I should have. I just brought it in to get an oil changed only to be told that there was NO oil in my car. -- The oil light never came on and although there was a subtle clicking, the car really wasn't making noise any strange or loud noises, wasn't over heating, and for the most part seemed to be running perfectly fine.
View 12 RepliesI drive a manual 2001 Hyundai Tiburon. I tried to take it on the expressway today and it took a long time for the RPMs to get high enough that I could shift gears. It seems to want to hover at about 2000. When I finally got into 5th gear, it would only go about 50-55mph with the pedal to the floor. When I turned off the AC, though, it would go about 70mph, but it lost speed quickly on hills and took a long time to regain it. I am not sure, but it seems like the gas mileage was substantially worse than it normally is. I didn't notice any new noises or smells or shakes or anything like that. The car is just really lagging and my mechanic is closed for the night. I would like to at least have a guess what it is so I don't have to worry about it all night.
View 5 RepliesSo I needed to have my clutch and slave cylinder replace on my 2000 Hyundai Tiboron about a month ago, and now I've noticed that in warmer weather the car totally loses acceleration. I took it back to the mechanic who had done the clutch work, but of course he couldn't reproduce the problem. Yesterday afternoon when it was 80+ degrees I saw the problem again, where I could push down on the accelerator and the RPMs would jump from 2.8k to about 3.8k and very little power would be transferred and very little acceleration. I then checked the car this morning while it was cool outside, and even after driving 30 miles to work over a mountain, the car had proper acceleration. So what might be causing the lose of power?
View 1 RepliesI just stopped for gas and as I was walking into the store I heard a poof sound and my car was smoking and all my coolant came pouring out from under the engine, I checked the two hoses coming off the radiator and there both connected and not wet, the leak came from somewhere other than that. 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.7 liter GT...
View 9 RepliesMy A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
View 12 RepliesI have leaking under my passenger and driver's side floors on my 2008 Hyundai Tiburon with 48,000 miles. I noticed a couple of weeks ago a small amount of water on the passenger side floor. It happened a few times...nothing major. It had not been raining but I had been using my A/C. Last night we had torrential downpours and my passenger side was completely flooded. The driver's side floor became wet too, but not nearly as much as the passenger side. Do you think it's something with my windshield or my A/C drain? Something else?
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 Tiburon has run 70,000+ Kms and was running without any major issues until last week. Last week, it started to show starting issues. When checked, I found a cracked radiator and replaced it immediately. It solved the start up issues for the time, but the issue came back after a few weeks. My wife’s 2000 Corolla also changed radiator recently, but the issue didn’t appear so far.
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