My 2006 Tiburon has run 70,000+ Kms and was running without any major issues until last week. Last week, it started to show starting issues. When checked, I found a cracked radiator and replaced it immediately. It solved the start up issues for the time, but the issue came back after a few weeks. My wife’s 2000 Corolla also changed radiator recently, but the issue didn’t appear so far.
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 Hyundai Tiburon is having issues with the AC not working when the car is idling. In addition to the AC not blowing cold air, the engine is running hot, almost overheating,however when I get up to speed and start moving again the engine cools back down and the AC blows perfectly. I can smell the sweet smell of antifreeze coming from some where when I get out of the car and I can see that it is leaking under the hood somewhere but I don't see anything on the ground. What is going on?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon w/ ~ 78K miles. For the past several months it has been living in the garage and mostly been used to drive to and from the grocery store once every 2 weeks. I did let the maintenance lag longer than I should have. I just brought it in to get an oil changed only to be told that there was NO oil in my car. -- The oil light never came on and although there was a subtle clicking, the car really wasn't making noise any strange or loud noises, wasn't over heating, and for the most part seemed to be running perfectly fine.
View 12 RepliesI drive a manual 2001 Hyundai Tiburon. I tried to take it on the expressway today and it took a long time for the RPMs to get high enough that I could shift gears. It seems to want to hover at about 2000. When I finally got into 5th gear, it would only go about 50-55mph with the pedal to the floor. When I turned off the AC, though, it would go about 70mph, but it lost speed quickly on hills and took a long time to regain it. I am not sure, but it seems like the gas mileage was substantially worse than it normally is. I didn't notice any new noises or smells or shakes or anything like that. The car is just really lagging and my mechanic is closed for the night. I would like to at least have a guess what it is so I don't have to worry about it all night.
View 5 RepliesSo I needed to have my clutch and slave cylinder replace on my 2000 Hyundai Tiboron about a month ago, and now I've noticed that in warmer weather the car totally loses acceleration. I took it back to the mechanic who had done the clutch work, but of course he couldn't reproduce the problem. Yesterday afternoon when it was 80+ degrees I saw the problem again, where I could push down on the accelerator and the RPMs would jump from 2.8k to about 3.8k and very little power would be transferred and very little acceleration. I then checked the car this morning while it was cool outside, and even after driving 30 miles to work over a mountain, the car had proper acceleration. So what might be causing the lose of power?
View 1 RepliesI just stopped for gas and as I was walking into the store I heard a poof sound and my car was smoking and all my coolant came pouring out from under the engine, I checked the two hoses coming off the radiator and there both connected and not wet, the leak came from somewhere other than that. 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.7 liter GT...
View 9 RepliesMy A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
View 12 RepliesI have leaking under my passenger and driver's side floors on my 2008 Hyundai Tiburon with 48,000 miles. I noticed a couple of weeks ago a small amount of water on the passenger side floor. It happened a few times...nothing major. It had not been raining but I had been using my A/C. Last night we had torrential downpours and my passenger side was completely flooded. The driver's side floor became wet too, but not nearly as much as the passenger side. Do you think it's something with my windshield or my A/C drain? Something else?
View 3 RepliesI got a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT v6 and it starts humming after 40 mph and then the steering wheel shakes too...
View 3 RepliesI have 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 5 Speed. Today my wife was driving it and out of no where the car would not pick up speed like normal. we cam shift all the gears normal and the rpms go up but the speed takes time to get up there. When we parked the car i opened the hood and notice a smell and some smoke coming from under the engine block going to see a mechanic his week but what it could be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon. I have an aftermarket radio in my car that has the capability to be hooked up to a rear view camera. I did not put it in, I also do not have a back up camera. It was done before I got the car. At first it was just a quirky thing, whenever I would turn on the headlights, the radio would switch to back up mode. I would turn the radio on and then off again and everything was fine. Then every once in a while the radio and clock would reset. I kept getting annoyed with that so I left the light switch on. (When i turn my car off the headlights turn off as well) Then it occasionally started resetting when i turned the car on. Now as I drive down the road and my car has been on for 20 min, half hour, the dashboard lights turn off and the clock and radio reset.
View 10 RepliesI have a 97' hyundai tiburon, I have multiple misfires that are p301 302 304 and rich airflow. I have changed the coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and the MAF sensor. Basically my car doesn't accelerate fast or go over 40(max), it putters when i try to accelerate.
View 1 Replies2005 Hyundai Tiburon Keeps Overheating
I live in Washington State and have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon with less than 110,000 miles. I have had it for 5 years, and have not had any issues with the car until recently (last 2-3 months). My car overheated on me back in May while out running work related errands. I was able to leave it parked downtown while my husband took a break from his job to come pick me up. Since then, it has continued to overheat every time I drive it.
The temperature gauge climbs into, or dangerously close to, the “red Zone” within the first 10 minutes of driving. The first couple of times the car overheated, if I was using the air conditioner, it would start blowing hot air instead of cold air and the air would stay hot. Now when I drive the car with the air conditioner on and it over heats, it continues to blow cold air (if that matters at all).
My super handy husband (a certified motorcycle mechanic) has done the following in an attempt to fix the car:
•Checked coolant levels
•Topped off coolant
•Bled coolant system and added yet more coolant
•Replaced the thermostat
•Replaced the radiator cap
•Water pump was replaced November 2012 (not even a year old yet)
The radiator cap was the most recent fix. It was replaced on a Wednesday evening after testing it and finding that the existing one was not maintaining the proper PSI. The car drove great around town for two whole days without any issues (Thursday & Friday). Saturday, I decided to take it on a longer drive out of town to see if my good luck would hold…it didn’t. I drove a total of 30 miles round trip and my car started overheating after about 20. I limped back into town and barely made it back to our apartment.
My car continues to overheat!! What is going on?! So confused and frustrated I’m hesitant about taking it to a mechanic who, my husband is convinced, will just charge me to check all of the things he has already fixed.
I have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
I hit a hunk of concrete on the way to work earlier this year and have a cracked radiator. I am looking to replace it with something better if possible. I searched the threads on here and the results seemed inconclusive. Looking for info regarding actually installion of these radiators in car? If so, how'd it work out?
View 24 RepliesOk so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
I have 170,000 miles on this car. This is a 4 cylinder. The seam at the top of the radiator has cracked, causing a small leak. I have confirmed it is not leaking from the cap if you are curious. So it's time to replace the radiator. My question is: is the radiator easy to replace? I have worked on my car before with basic maintenance (oil, transmission, etc) I was thinking it would be straightforward to replace the radiator myself.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra, new in January, 6600 miles on it, and I took it in to the dealership today because it was making funny noises this week from the left front wheel; the noise gets faster as I drive faster. The left front tire has a bubble in it, and they're telling me the wheel is bent and the bearing is cracked, so they'll need to replace the tire, wheel, hub, bearing and do something with the alignment AND it's not covered under warranty because it is "impact damage." Is this even possible on a new car like this? For the bearing to be cracked without a big accident? I don't remember hitting a pot hole or running over a curb. Shouldn't this be covered under normal use? I'm concerned that I'm being ripped off
View 16 RepliesI have a 2008 2.4L Sonata GLS with 96K mi. It is hard to start and idles rough. I cleaned some components and changed spark plugs. I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if it would reset and relearn settings. Took a 15 mi drive and read codes and P0016 was pending, it was still idling rough and acceleration was still under par. I then cleared the code. I purchased a new cam sensor and compared the Ohm readings between the old and new Cam position sensor. The Ohm readings were different by 50% so I assumed the old was indeed bad.
I installed the new sensor, repeated battery disconnect for 10 min, then restarted engine. It was still idling rough (maybe a little better) so I rechecked for codes. P0016 was still a pending code. I cleared the code and P0016 cam right back. The battery is good (no charging issues), timing chain is original (no noise). Is there a way to test the crank position sensor before buying a new one? I've also seen in posts the Oil Control Valve (OCV) affects timing and seems to be a problem for these vehicles, however I have not received that code (P0011). I can limp it to work but will have to take it in if I cannot solve this soon. If it ends up being a timing chain problem what ballpark price should I expect to pay to have it done.
Hyundai 2007 Elentra Manual 5 speed..
Car won't start, Replaced Battery.
Have checked starter motor, its fine and cranking over
Have checked spark plugs and they are sparking.
Fuel pump wasn't working and after spending ages getting the back seats off and causing movement there, the car started. So fuel pump was replaced. Car went back to not starting after fuel pump replaced. Could this still be an associated issue with the 2008 recalls (Some components in the original fuel pump may be compromised by ethanol blended fuel.) Have checked relays and they seem to be working and fine. Have connected up and tried to find any fault readings come up and nothing is there.
My 2006 Hyundai Elantra has developed an intermittent starting short that seems to only occur in damp conditions. The intermittent starting short/fault seems to only occur in the mornings when the car has sat overnight outside. When I put the key in the ignition all the regular lights and bells will ding as normal, but when the key is then turned from "on" to "start" the entire electrical system cuts off. No interior lights, gauges, dash lights, nothing. However, if I pop the hood and then drop it, electrical power will be restored. I have been doing this for the past two weeks while I tried to determine the conditions of the fault. This morning however, this "fix" wouldn't restore electrical power but the short occurred again in a cycle and the car never did start, despite trying the hood pop/drop method 10 times.
I had it towed to a shop this morning. When the car and I arrived, it started normally without issue. (of course!) I'm wondering if riding on the back of a tow truck dried out something or if that was immaterial. The person who looked at my car noticed a loose negative battery pole attachment and replaced the negative battery clamp. (His advice was to start small before needlessly pulling things off trying to find the fault.)
So, what could cause this or what course of action to pursue? The car has 94,000 miles and this is the first real issue it has had.