Hyundai - Sonata :: 2013 - MPG Went Down After Replacing Battery And Plugs
Jun 6, 2016
I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L Engine and recently replaced the Battery and Spark Plugs myself. My car has 55,000 miles and I have had all the normal maintenance performed. The maintenance guide suggested the plugs be replaced at 45,000 miles I waited until 55,000 as I was not having any problems. The last couple of trips to auto shop showed the battery slowing losing the ability to retain a charge so it thought might as well replace now rather than later.
After changing the battery and plugs I went to fill up my Car with Gas and the MPG dropped. Normally when I fill up the car with gas the dashboard of my car would show 420 miles until empty. Recently when I filled up the car it showed 370 miles until empty. I am thinking this is due either to replacing the battery and having the computer reset or I set the gap on one or more plugs wrong. The car is not misfiring so I am thinking it is the replacement of the battery and resetting the computer. I was going to run the care for a couple of tanks and see if the MGP change. I am also going to monitor the mileage and see if it matches the overall MPG.
Is my thinking about the battery and computer resetting correct?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 55,000 miles. I was told to replace the plugs and battery by my local automotive shop. I decided to do it myself to save a couple of dollars just this past week. I filled up the car today and noticed the MPG dropped significantly. Normally a full the tank shows I have 420 miles to go. Today it showed 370 a difference of 50 miles.
I have two ideas why this happened:
1) Replacing the battery has caused the computer to reset and as a result it is showing the wrong mileage. After a week or two of running the correct mileage will show. I drove the car about 150 miles after changing the battery and thought this would of been enough time for the computer to figure out the MPG if this was the problem.
2) I caused damage to the Iridium plugs when I gapped them and did not notice it. I used Autolite XP6203 model and gapped them at .044. Autolites do not come pre-gapped I was told. The car is not hesitating and runs smooth. I am thinking this is the problem but not 100% certain.
Is my idea about the computer valid and I should give it some time to recalculate MPG? I am thinking to give it a couple of tanks of gas and see if the car fixes itself
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My '13 Sonata with 50K miles, yes I drive a lot, 85% of it is highway mileage, all of a sudden today on the way home I felt it getting hot in the car. The a/c was on the and fan was on low so I put it all the way up on high and though it sounded right it resulted in only a little more air coming out. I experimented with fan speeds, vent settings, a/c on and off etc. It just sounds like there's a door closed somewhere. With it on full blast i was able to get some air leaking out enough to keep me from opening the windows but what's up? The temp gauge never changed the whole time. When I got home I tried cycling the car on and off a few times but nada. Back in the day I would've dug around under the dash to see if there was a disconnected vacuum line or something like that but I'm sure it's much more complicated than that now.
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Which one is better and why?
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I have a 2007 Sonata. The parking lights won't switch off without a turning the lights on and off for some time. Repeated attempts can turn them off, but you have to check the car in a hour to see if they have come back on. The dealer stated this was a known defect of the fuse box assy, but there is no recall. 800.00 repair according to the dealer.Without an alternative, I am considering ordering the assy and changing myself.
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I just had a lower balljoint repaired on my 2006 hyundai Sonata. After 1 day, the battery dies. Had it jump started last night, and it's dead again this AM.
Could this at all be related to the ball joint repair? They don't seem related but it also seems like an odd coincidence since there were no other recent issues with my car. Thoughts?
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I currently own a 2002 Hyundai sonata that was purchased brand new I have mostly kept up with the general maintenance spark plugs, air filters, oil changes, etc. but have been lenient on some of the less noticeable things such as belts background history: my car's alternator has tested fine at multiple places (Walmart and advance auto parts) but when I had tested it, it had only produced around 30 amps when it was built to producing about 90, i assume this is because of a bad diode.
I thought i could just use it until it completely died (despite the fact that it could harm my battery) because I'm still in school and cant afford a lot at the moment, but last night when I was driving home (it was wet out with deep puddles) and I drove through a rather deep puddle with a lot of water getting into the engine compartment. (i have driven this car through many puddles some making a much larger splash, with no problems what so ever.) shortly after I left for work and my batter light was on, I tried different things like turning the AC on high to see if they worked better at high revaluations to find out whether it was the battery or the alternator, as it turns out the fan maintained a constant speed and after work my car started.
I got about 20 feet and it died, my Friend came to charge my car but when he jumped me, the alternator started working again even though not 30 minutes ago it was not, the same thing happened to me today (same puddle same rout) the alternator didn't work going to work and it miraculously did when i went home my alternator is obviously bad and needs to be changed, but is it the alternator causing this problem, or something else?
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I have a 2006 Toyota camry v6 1mz-fe engine. My buddy changed the all 6 spark plugs using Toyota oem denso.
The car drive weird after that. When I am on the stop light, the car is shaking ( coming from the engine area ).
When I am driving 60 mph, it shakes .
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This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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I just changed my spark plugs the other day and since then my engine is hard idling and skips and jumps while I'm driving it. I'm being told I either need to change the spark plug wires or the coil packs. So my question is which do I need to change? And is there anyway to test which one I need to replace?
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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My '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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I got the plugs for my '06. I hope to put them in in a day or 2. My question is: is it necessary to disconnect the 12v battery to do this? I've changed plugs in other cars without doing so.
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We just bought a 2011 and are only getting 40 mpg max. I wonder if the 110 Arizona summer heat has something to do with it. Pretty bummed. I have read 50 with careful driving is normal? I let bicycles outrun me? 12 volt battery? New plugs? It has 107,000.
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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So, I changed my spark plugs a couple of months ago and did the pcv valve swap as well. Now I have this high pitched rattling noise, like a tiny chain rattling. It is coming from the engine bay - in the area between the throttle body and the firewall. At least that's where I can hear it.
It does it quickly right after I start the engine (though I am certain it is not a timing chain issue)...I had that fixed a while back. Also it doesn't sound like the timing chain tensioner noise.
I am thinking maybe the pcv valve that I swapped out. I remember reading that a new one should make some noise when you shake it...an old, gunked one would not rattle if you shook it in your hands. Consequently, this noise sounds a lot like if I would shake the pvc valve back and forth very fast.
It happens intermittently on idle....and when I rev the engine, it will also make the noise while the RPM falls back down. Since this happened literally right after I did the spark plug change and the pcv valve, my guess is it's that. Maybe I didn't install it correctly.
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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I tried to jump my phaeton and it would click but not completely turn over and i absolutely cant get it to start. the radio, lights, windows, and things of that nature are still working. So i need to know how to replace the battery i.e. (disconnecting it and can i replace it with a battery from an auto store?) If not, how much should i expect to spend and what else could it possibly be??
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Is it possible to replace the 4GS DRL assembly (that has multiple LEDs) with one that has the single uniform DRL look (like the LS and NX)? Just curious as I saw an NX behind me and couldn't stop staring at its DRLs because of how uniform they looked.
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