Hyundai - Sonata :: 2006 - New Radiator Low On Coolant - Blown Tire
May 27, 2013
I have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
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2006 Hyundai Sonata Radiator fan is not turning on at temp or with AC. Fan works with 12 volts and a good ground at the connector. The car side of the connector has 14.5 volts on the positive side and 12.5 volts on the negative side with car running and AC on. Why is there 12.5 volts on the negative side and more importantly. how to resolve?
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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My Hyundai Sonata Limited has 25,000 miles on it and is just 4 years old. The left front tire has a bubble in it. The dealer said it must be replaced ASAP. Is it okay to replace just the one tire or if it is important to replace both front tires or what's the right thing to do. All the tires are the originals that came with the car. Also, is there any warranty on the original tires?
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I have a 2014 Hyundai Sonata that is giving me a "Low Tire Pressure" warning. I have checked the air pressure in all of the tires and I still get the error. How I can find the tire pressure that is giving me the error?
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92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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I have a Hyundai Sonata w/ P215/55R17 tires.
I am almost due to get new tires and my husband says that we should switch the wheels and get regular tires, not the lower profile tires that were OEM w/ the vehicle. The current tires are expensive and regular tires would be less expensive in the long run. When I asked at the dealership 6 mos ago they said that it would not be good for the car and would adversely affect the performance. If I do change, what tire size (regular sidewall height) would be appropriate (and less expensive)to change to?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 65k miles...it has a 2.4 liter motor (4 CYL), auto transmission. The car currently has 205-65-R16 tires on it with a 95H speed rating. They all have worn down to the wear bars so it's time for replacement.
On my previous cars, I've always had Uniroyal Tiger Paw touring tires because I love how they ride. I found the same tire size for my Sonata. However it has a different speed rating...95T.
The only difference is the letter "T".
EDIT: It currently has Nexen N5000 tires and I bought the car with these tires already on....crappy tires...worn down in only 30k miles.
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My 2006 Tiburon has run 70,000+ Kms and was running without any major issues until last week. Last week, it started to show starting issues. When checked, I found a cracked radiator and replaced it immediately. It solved the start up issues for the time, but the issue came back after a few weeks. My wife’s 2000 Corolla also changed radiator recently, but the issue didn’t appear so far.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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08 Sonata: I have been noticing this for a couple of months.
Its summer out here in CO and my car typically has the the thermostat on cold, but the AC is off, Air on fresh air (default with AC off), windows rolled down. After driving the car for ~ 5-10 minutes, the vents for the driver and passenger's feet blow out hot air. It gets just a little difficult to breathe and I am forced to turn the AC on. The AC works fine, no issues.
I am at 43k miles and wanted to run this by the forum before heading to the dealer.
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
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My radiator fan stays on after car is off... forever. Pull fuses and it does turn off but comes right back on when replaced.
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Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
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I have a 2006 Lexus GS430 w/ 100k miles. I've been trying to solve my coolant issue for the longest and I've been doing research like crazy!!! The issue that I'm having is that coolant from the radiator is blowing back into the reservoir causing the reservoir to be overfilled and splattering all over the engine bay. Also, when this happens the fluid in the radiator drops significantly ( I have to keep dumping the lost coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator). Under normal driving the fluid wont blow over to the reservoir that much (just a little) but, when I drive long distances or if I floor it that is when the coolant from the radiator really pushes over into the reservoir. When the car cools, I find out that the coolant from the reservoir does not draw back into the radiator. (I'm guessing due to the air in the cooling system?)
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks. Car drives solid and strong! Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong?
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I have a 08 2.0 CRDi and my radiator fan runs constantly on high as soon as the key is turned on and stays on high until I turn the key off. Have found the fan controller and wondered if that might be faulty but don't wont to replace it for nothing. also where is the temp switch is on the engine or radiator?
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I drive a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder (2.4) that has about 81,500 miles on it. Recently, I notice front-end squeaks when turning either hard left or right while traveling 10-15 mph or more. There are no squeaks on straight-away driving. The squeaks are not loud - more like muffled squeaks - and occur 1-3 times per occurrence. I asked several people at auto parts stores. Most tell me that it is likely my tie-rod ends which have no grease fittings. One or two people have mentioned CV joints but I discount this as there is no damage to the boots and I do not get the tell-tale clicking noise on turns.
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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