I have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
View 2 RepliesThis has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
View 2 RepliesWhen my 2009 Sonata decelerates to about 20 mph, the car jerks. This happens when my foot is off the brake. What's going on and how can I fix it?
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
View 4 RepliesI've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
View 1 Replies'04 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L ~150k: P0011 and P0021
Friend's vehicle. OBD-II codes indicate Intake Valve Timing Control Bank1 and Bank2. Vehicle drives OK most of the time, but then has lapses of lost power where you step on the gas and the vehicle doesn't accelerate accordingly. RPMs rise, but tranny doesn't seem to shift at the right time. Overdrive button OFF doesn't seem to have any affect. Codes have been erased and returned the next day.
Is this Camshaft-related, as in Camshaft Position sensor? I had this issue with my '97 Taurus, but in that case it threw the code explicitly for the CMP sensor.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
I think my car has a vaccum leak. The car cranks ok, but it has a lope to it and when I try to drive it, it hesitate when I step on the gas and sputters, every since I cleaned the engine. I checked all the vacuum lines and found two that were broken or split. I replace those lines I also check the air intake vinyl connection to the throttle body it wasn't slpit. Well I didn't see a split in it. So I put it back together and cranked it. You can hear a vacuum leak sound near the fire wall. I pulled each vacuum line off one at a time and checked them again and found nothing. Could this be the intake plenum? I hat to take it to a mechanic when it is something simple that I could fix.
View 4 Replies2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
View 2 Replies I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
All the brake lights and master lights are on, and it seems to drive fine then at a stop light i start to move and it jerks a bit then looses almost all power it will still drive but barely and it has high RPM'S then I pull over and restart the car and it goes away for about another 10 to 20 miles. DTC codes are fuel to air meetering, replace hybrid battery pack, and block 11 becomes weak, do you think this might be caused by a bad skid control ECU?
View 2 RepliesI have been experiencing a slight hesitation when I accelerate from a stop. It almost feels like its going to stall for a brief second then it picks up and accelerates normal until I'm at a complete stop again. I have the 2016 sport with the standard 2.4L. I currently have 2200 miles on it now and when I go in for my initial suggested oil change at 3000 miles ...
View 25 RepliesBought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
2008 Sonata Limited.
When I accelerate from a stop there is a metallic rattling in the engine compartment. My best guess is that it is near the middle and near the firewall. Can't see much under the hood in this area.
The rattling stops after about 60km/h or so and does not happen at all during cruising otherwise.
This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
I own a Hyundai hatchback which i converted to a LPG sequential kit 6 months back. The car was running fine till a couple of weeks back. Now I experience jerking at 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes the engine just turns off while on the move at these lower gears or if the car encounters a pothole(I then have to restart the engine ).
So far, I've changed the ignition coil(6 months back) and spark plugs(1 week back) but I still experience the problem.The Hyundai mechanic says that it could be a problem either with the wiring to the ECU( since soldering instead of couplers have been used) or with the injectors. He says the cord wires and ignition coils are just fine.
The Lovato authorized mechanic who fitted the LPG sequential kit says that it could be a problem with the spark plug cord wires or the ignition coil.
The reason I don't see a rationale with the Hyundai mechanic's argument is that the car has been running perfectly for 7 months. Initially , when the car was fitted with the LPG sequential kit, there was a slight jerking problem but was gone once I got the ignition coil replaced.
The reason I don't see a rationale with the LPG mechanic is that the ignition coil is just 6 months ( 4k kms ) old. I've been struggling with this problem for a while since each mechanic is giving his own version of the problem. I might be wrong in my rationale above.
My 2007 Hyundai Accent Automatic has been, what I'd call jerking, off and on when I go to accelerate, either when speeding up to merge on to the interstate/coming out of a turn/or being very slow to accelerate after a stop, like at a red light. About a month ago, it wouldn't start after I filled it up with gas and the check engine light finally came on, so I took it a mechanic. They kept it for a day, got it duplicate the not starting problem, and said it was the "fuel gauge." (looking this up on the internet leaves me questing, because nothing about the definition of a fuel gauge sounds like anything that would cause it to do what it was doing, but they told me that's what the computer alerted as the code for what was wrong.)
It was working fine now when I fill it up with gas, but occasionally still jerks upon accelerating. I haven't looked at the gear gauge to see if it's not changing gears, as I thought at first it might be something misfiring, but I had the spark plugs changed probably a year ago or less. Just based on a quick internet search, I think it might have something to do with the fuel pump. I'd describe the jerking as just that, the car physically jerks until either the gear changes, or it gets power or something, and then once it does it it doesn't accelerate quickly after being at a complete stop, and the engine seems to get louder and while it does move, it seems like when I push the gas petal it has a hard time getting going.
I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
View 7 RepliesI have 2008 Hyundai Sonata. The TPMS light has been on for months. Not the little round tire low light...this is the actual letters TPMS. I have had issues in the past with the low pressure light coming on with weather temp changes which were quickly remedied by putting air in the tires. After several new tire purchases the low level light would come on when I left the store and as I drove out and drove a little while they would go off and stay off. I have had tire centers break the sensors and have to replace them. After the last one they reset the sensor, however some time later the TPMS letters came on and will not go off. No one can seem to fix it permanently. The Hyundai dealer service center tells me it's a tire center problem.
View 1 RepliesMy wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).