Hyundai - Santafe :: Rubber Creaking Noise When Braking
May 13, 2013
I own a Hyundai Santa Fe thats reaching 70,000 miles. I had my brakes and rotors looked at a month ago and they said its getting low but im good for a couple months.
Now I have this weird noise that sounds like as if my tire is flat almost. Its a rubbery creaking noise coming from my front passenger side tire area. I alternated between using the e-brake and regular brakes and the noise only occurs when using the regular brakes at slow speeds, coming to complete stops and turning as well as going over bumps occasionally.
The video attached, the noise occurs at the end when I have the camera on the tire. Its louder than that usually, but I recorded the video in my driveway.
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I have a 06 fwd santa fe. Im pretty sure this is a front break noise. It only happens when breaking and after the breaks have warmed up quite a bit. So after long trips of stopping and going. But if the trip is long with not much stopping the noise doesn't happen. It never happens right away, so if the car sits over nite the next day for my morning coffee run the noise doesn't happen. But driving around town with a lot of stopping and going the noise eventually starts. The front break pads are new/recently installed, as well as the rotors. I've tried giving the pads a sand but nothing changed and im not seeing any bluing on the rotors. You can hear the noise roughly 27 seconds into the mp3. At the moment I can't change back to my old pads as i have a bummed up wrist, I've been waiting for it to heal so i can try changing back to my old pads, but until then i was hoping if i could get an answer as to what's causing the noise.
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my friends Hyundai Santa-FE 2007 makes a knocking noise like a hammer hitting the engine when she starts the car and drives. What could that be?
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My wife had the tires rotated on her 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe immediately before we went on a long road trip. After we left, we noticed a high-pitched whining sound at speeds of about 35-70 mph. It did not occur every time we hit that speed, and it generally seemed to go away after we'd been driving for about an hour.
We could make the noise stop every time by braking (as long as the pedal was depressed), or some of the time by turning (but only while the wheel was being turned). Occasionally, going over a particularly big bump could stop or start the noise.
My question is, what color is the car? Wait, no, my question is, is this likely to be the brakes, and if so, could it have been caused by the tire rotation?
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We have a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Over the last year, there has been a humming noise that comes out of the front passenger side under the dashboard. This humming noise starts when the car is in motion (above say 5mph) and then lasts presumably at highway speeds but the road noise sort of block it out. When we come to a stop, the humming noise persists about 5 seconds after we come to a complete stop and then goes away. I checked the tire and it's not rubbing anything and tire pressures are even. We had the tires rotated but the noise still comes from the front passenger side. We had a wheel alignment and the noise still persists. There are no issues with steering or braking.
I think it's probably related to the strut or suspension system? Is there a pump in the area? It's been a year and we've sort of gotten used to the noise, and nothing's broken.
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I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.
My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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I just picked up my new Tiguan Wolfsburg yesterday. Beautiful! Drives wonderfully! But an odd thing, I noticed that as I brake, there is this thud, thud, thud noise around the back tires; almost like something is hitting the tire because the thud interval slows as the car slows. Then, when I got out after a 10 mile drive home, I noticed the heavy scent of burning rubber. Does this sound at all like a new car settling in, or possible issues already?
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Maybe around 35000 miles, experienced a creaking noise when you brake? The car typically does it after warming up, but every time I come to a complete stop, the rear of the car produces a creaking noise right before the braking completes. I brought it to Hyundai, they couldn't replicate it. So I took them for a drive myself, and was able to replicate it, however the technician had never heard or experienced this before. So far it's intermittent, but whenever it's more constant I'll bring it in again.
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My 2003 Hyundai Elantra makes this creaking noise when I come to a stop. It seems to make it when the weight is shifting back from a stop. It's not a brake noise. I've checked my brakes and they're fine. It's not even close to a brake noise. I was thinking it was the shocks or springs since it only does it after I've stopped. It makes this noise also while I am stopped and if I shake the car a little. Not too sure what this noise could be. I'm also hearing a new noise in the front. It a loud squeaking type noise that only happens it seems when I am stopping going down a hill or on hard turns. It gets very loud and I kind of feel a grinding in the pedal when it happens.
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My car pulling to right significantly at all speed. Alignment checked mechanic says its normar to have car goes to right. I have similar car for 10 years 140,000 miles never have this kind of pull with many tires changed and rotation of all kind. While mechanic was doing wheel alighment white brown greese / liquid came out from steering rack on right side. Mechanics says its just oil seal from steering rack oil seal. Car was pulling to right before this rack leak as well. Mechanic says need special bolts for this car to adjust some camber on this car and can make this better.
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Headlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
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While driving, the ABS light came on, with what felt like the brakes. That stopped, now the ESC light comes on (or blinks), still with the brakes, or something acting against the wheels. This can happen at any speed and only happens from once a week to once every few weeks. What is going on?
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This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
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I purchased a new Pilot in June. With every acceleration or braking I heard significant creaking. After two visits to the dealer I was told it was an issue with the a-frame. I continue to have all kinda of noises, increasing with colder temps. Every bump, rough road, etc, brings creaks, pops, rattling in the dashboard/windshield area, window seals, rear-end area. What could have caused the issue initially? Two people in the industry think it was damaged in transit. The first service was around 2,500 miles. It just turned 9,000 with 4-5 service visits.
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I have a 04 santa fe 2.4L 4cyl. I recently did an engine swap, old motor threw a connecting rod. I put my intake, exhaust manifold and head on it. Timed it. All new gaskets. Turn the key and it fires right up and runs great. But when you accelerate it sounds loud (almost diesel like) and doesn't shift at the right time, also while trying to cruise it will drop about 300 rpms and then come back up, then back down and up every 3 to 5 seconds. The transmission was fine when the old motor came out. The head/intake were fine also. All the vacuum lines are connected, cant hear a vacuum leak anywhere. But it keeps throwing a throttle body sensor code and it wasn't broken when the old motor went, i even swapped another used one on it and it still throws that code. I am thinking it has to be intake related.
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My 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
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I have a 2003 hyundai Santa Fe that has had a problem for a few years that I can not figure out, nor can the hyundai dealership. (Though they seem to only want to hook it up to a computer, which tells them that nothing is wrong.) After filling up the car with gas, the car will turn over, but will stall immediately. You can press on the gas and it will stay going, but once you take your foot off the gas it stalls. It act like when you used to flood the corroborator. It takes about 4 times of turning over the car and stalling before it runs normally.
It is a GLS 4-cyl automatic AWD.
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My (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, about 128,000 miles on it. For the past 5 months or so, the engine simply won't start after filling with gas - and only after filling with gas. I've tried filling partially from near-empty, as well as filling full from halfway or more full...it consistently won't start up after filling with gas.
After turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but quickly quits. Lately it's had more trouble turning over at all. To get the car moving, I need to actually feed it gas with the pedal, and "simulate" idle. Even after a couple of minutes, if I let off the pedal it dies right away....as if gas just isn't getting to the engine on its own.
In order to get the car moving, I just have to keep feeding it a bit of gas while shifting to drive (and stepping on the brake), then I give more gas and let the brake go almost as if it's manual-transmission....off it goes.
Oddest thing: as soon as that happens; as soon as the car moves forward (even just to get out of the gas station), everything's back to normal. The car idles healthily at the next stop, as if nothing happened.
No check-engine light, no diagnostic codes come up with a scan. Same results on warm or cold days. Most recent maintenance on it was new spark plugs almost a year ago (doesn't seem related).
Of course, the only time it DID fire up normally after filling with gas was when I had the mechanic with me in the car!
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