My SantaFe drives beautifully until it gets to about 50 - then it starts cutting out and decelerating. It seems as if it is not getting any power at all. It chugs out, powers back at the next lower gear, then settles in at about 45 mph.
View 3 RepliesI bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
View 10 RepliesSo my car has been dying. I was told they tested alternator, but they said it was charging and replaced my battery. So 1 week later it has had a few lights pop on but it didn't die... and so today it is just like it was before replacing the battery. Headlights and dashboard dim and a bunch of dashboard lights come on. Such as battery, abs, break, tcs, airbag and maybe something else.. after getting a jump it happened again and I noticed everything was stopping on the dashboard.. while driving even the speed jumped up and down and landed on 0... any tips?
View 4 RepliesOccasionally, randomly, and unpredictably when accelerating from a slow speed coast I get no power response when I press down on the accelerator. It's as if the engine has stalled, but it has not. When the accelerator is held down for a few seconds (maybe 3 to 7) power comes back with a rush. Examples:
1. Making a U turn from a left turn late. Accelerate slowly forward, take foot off gas as the turn is initiated, press down on gas to accelerate out of the turn and get no immediate power response.
2. Making a left turn into a suicide lane. Accelerate to cross 2 traffic lanes, let off gas and coast slowly forward in the suicide lane while waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, traffic clears, press down on gas and get to response. Continue to press slowly down--no response. Hold the accelerator half or 3/4 down, power surges back after a few seconds.
3. Rolling slowly down a long left turn lane with foot off gas timing oncoming traffic, traffic clears, press down on gas to initiate the turn, no response. Let up on gas and press down again, no response, let up an press down again and car reacts normally.
Occurrences of this problem have been very random. I have spent a good deal of time in vacant parking lots trying to cause the problem to occur without any luck even though I know well the conditions under which it happens. I have left the car with the dealer but, of course, they can't observe the problem either. I have driven nearly 1000 miles without an incident and then had 2 occurrences within 4 miles of each other. I have about 5000 miles on the car and have logged 17 incidents.
Loosing power in traffic is, of course, dangerous. I was about to initiate action under California's Lemon Law when I went to England for 3 weeks in Sept. I rented an Audi A1 and to my surprise I experienced a very similar problem, but it happened much more often. An example would be entering a roundabout, letting up on the accelerator while looking at directional signs, reapplying accelerator pressure and getting no response. Unlike the Hyundai I didn't seem to lose all power, but couldn't get any acceleration. The Hyundai engine is the 4 cylinder turbo and has an electronic throttle. I don't know what the Audi had by way of mechanics. I'm at a complete loss; is there something I don't understand about electronic throttles? I don't have a clue about the source of this problem, but I know I need to get it resolved before I get rear ended.
My car pulling to right significantly at all speed. Alignment checked mechanic says its normar to have car goes to right. I have similar car for 10 years 140,000 miles never have this kind of pull with many tires changed and rotation of all kind. While mechanic was doing wheel alighment white brown greese / liquid came out from steering rack on right side. Mechanics says its just oil seal from steering rack oil seal. Car was pulling to right before this rack leak as well. Mechanic says need special bolts for this car to adjust some camber on this car and can make this better.
View 9 RepliesHeadlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
View 1 RepliesWhile driving, the ABS light came on, with what felt like the brakes. That stopped, now the ESC light comes on (or blinks), still with the brakes, or something acting against the wheels. This can happen at any speed and only happens from once a week to once every few weeks. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have a 04 santa fe 2.4L 4cyl. I recently did an engine swap, old motor threw a connecting rod. I put my intake, exhaust manifold and head on it. Timed it. All new gaskets. Turn the key and it fires right up and runs great. But when you accelerate it sounds loud (almost diesel like) and doesn't shift at the right time, also while trying to cruise it will drop about 300 rpms and then come back up, then back down and up every 3 to 5 seconds. The transmission was fine when the old motor came out. The head/intake were fine also. All the vacuum lines are connected, cant hear a vacuum leak anywhere. But it keeps throwing a throttle body sensor code and it wasn't broken when the old motor went, i even swapped another used one on it and it still throws that code. I am thinking it has to be intake related.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 hyundai Santa Fe that has had a problem for a few years that I can not figure out, nor can the hyundai dealership. (Though they seem to only want to hook it up to a computer, which tells them that nothing is wrong.) After filling up the car with gas, the car will turn over, but will stall immediately. You can press on the gas and it will stay going, but once you take your foot off the gas it stalls. It act like when you used to flood the corroborator. It takes about 4 times of turning over the car and stalling before it runs normally.
It is a GLS 4-cyl automatic AWD.
My (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, about 128,000 miles on it. For the past 5 months or so, the engine simply won't start after filling with gas - and only after filling with gas. I've tried filling partially from near-empty, as well as filling full from halfway or more full...it consistently won't start up after filling with gas.
After turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but quickly quits. Lately it's had more trouble turning over at all. To get the car moving, I need to actually feed it gas with the pedal, and "simulate" idle. Even after a couple of minutes, if I let off the pedal it dies right away....as if gas just isn't getting to the engine on its own.
In order to get the car moving, I just have to keep feeding it a bit of gas while shifting to drive (and stepping on the brake), then I give more gas and let the brake go almost as if it's manual-transmission....off it goes.
Oddest thing: as soon as that happens; as soon as the car moves forward (even just to get out of the gas station), everything's back to normal. The car idles healthily at the next stop, as if nothing happened.
No check-engine light, no diagnostic codes come up with a scan. Same results on warm or cold days. Most recent maintenance on it was new spark plugs almost a year ago (doesn't seem related).
Of course, the only time it DID fire up normally after filling with gas was when I had the mechanic with me in the car!
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with about 83,000 miles. Lately it has been having issue with the rpm's going low and stalling out while I'm driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and it has not been resolved. He said it does not need a tune up and it's nothing with my fuel. I've also heard it could be a crank shaft censor but he says no. The check engine light has come on sometimes, very quickly but then goes off.. He ran the code but nothing came up. So then what's causing my car to do this?? While the car is running and I'm in park, the rpm's will go from 2 to almost 0 then back up again. While I'm driving down the road it does the same thing and sometimes it completely stalls out while I'm going about 40mph. So incredibly scary. What this could be so I can take it back and get it fixed!!!! I'm so scared to drive it but I have to get to work.
View 3 RepliesAbout a year ago, I tried to top off the tank of my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Since that time, the car has been sputtering as soon as a fill up. It doesn't sputter at other times. I have heard that I may have damaged my evaporation system. I have taken it to quite a few mechanics who tried to work on the evap system, but they could not solve the problem. Is there a simple and easy way to fix this??
View 6 Repliesthe passenger seat in our 2015 hyundai santa fe sport is not power but the seat can manually adjust forward and backward and the back rest can be moved backward and forward. The seat cannot be moved up and down. It is way too low and it feels like sitting in a "pit". The dealer said to sit on a pillow but when I sit on a pillow the air bag light will not go off (so the passenger air bag is not activated). If I sit on a book, the air bag light does go off but who wants to sit on a hard book all the time. The air bag warning light does go off when I sit on the seat itself.
View 12 RepliesMy car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and does not want to start only after fueling. It will also die when the fuel cap is removed. There is an excessive amount of vacuum pressure released when cap is removed. The computer showed a code: P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow. Is this simply a fuel cap issue or something else?
View 5 RepliesMy brake light and battery dash lights came on when I got home. The next day drove 3 miles parked no lights on . But on my way back. about 1/12 miles they came back on. Next trip they came on when first started the car stayed on for about 9 miles once I got on the.Why they went off stayed off till I hit town about 30 miles. Stayed on till I parked the car. When I left to return home lights still on. While driving. n all dash lights came on then went real dim to no lights transmission and brakes felt like they were losing power .parked the car the next morning it started right up but break and battery light still on moved it a couple blocks to my sons house . When the lights went off on the hey. Then heater fan would kick up when lights are on heater fan runs slower.
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
I used some mass airflow sensor cleaner yesterday. My Hyundai santafe check engine light came on but it was running fine. Tried to drive it this morning and it was missing bad and kept shutting off. It would cut back on, once in drive and move a few yards it shut right back off. I cleaned the sensor BC my truck kept idling up high and shutting of when coming to a complete stop. It seem like it was flooding itself, kept smelling fuel when I would try to start back up. Knew it had to be fuel regulator or air flow sensor. So I decided to clean air flow sensor before buying parts. Now after cleaning truck is worst but at least it will start right up. Unlike at first when I would have to wait 15 mins when it shut off.
View 7 RepliesI own a Hyundai Santa Fe thats reaching 70,000 miles. I had my brakes and rotors looked at a month ago and they said its getting low but im good for a couple months.
Now I have this weird noise that sounds like as if my tire is flat almost. Its a rubbery creaking noise coming from my front passenger side tire area. I alternated between using the e-brake and regular brakes and the noise only occurs when using the regular brakes at slow speeds, coming to complete stops and turning as well as going over bumps occasionally.
The video attached, the noise occurs at the end when I have the camera on the tire. Its louder than that usually, but I recorded the video in my driveway.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that keeps getting air in the brake system. Have been to four different places and they have replaced the master cylinder, new brake pads, replaced the right front brake line and caliper and have bled the brake lines numerous times. I get full pressure for 2-5 days and then the spongy brake returns with air in the front right. It is not leaking break fluid and all systems that they think could let in air seem to be working properly.
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