Hyundai :: High Pressure On Low Side Of A/C Loop?
May 22, 2011
We noticed that the air conditioner in our 2000 Hyundai Accent isn't as effective as it once was and I began to investigate. My hypothesis was that the car is 10 years old and may just have over time become low on refrigerant. After checking that my car does indeed use a R-134a based system, I purchased a canister of refrigerant with a hose and gauge for connecting the canister. Following the directions on the product, I attached the gauge and operated the A/C at full blast. Initially the pressure read 45 psi which would suggest that the system was probably about where it should be given the outside ambient temperature. I continued to observer the gauge and over a few minutes the pressure rose to around 100 PSI before the compressor stopped turning (the clutch released, so the outside of the pulley turned normally, but the center of the pulley stopped.) As expected the cool air ceased and the blower at this point only moved around the warm air still in the cab.
All I have done at this point is observe the pressure on the low side of A/C system and witnessed the compressor stopping when the pressure got high. My suspicion at this point is there is a much bigger problem for me find? I know I can always take the car to a specialist, but I was really hoping for a simple and economical do it yourself solution.
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It is like floating peacefully along in a canoe on a calm lake, and then being passed by a speed boat. Our 05 Hyundai Sonata sways/rocks violently left to right at speeds higher than 50 mph, when going over bumps, or around curves to the right. It also happens when being passed by tractor trailers on the highway, and when high wind gusts hit the car. It is worse when the car is full of our family and luggage. We just drove from New Hampshire to Georgia and back dealing with this frightening problem the whole way. The Hyundai dealership in Buford Georgia said it was our struts, so we get new rear struts. Unfortunately we discovered that was not the problem once we hit the highway to head home. The problem persisted. Our local mechanic in New Hampshire does not see anything wrong, but said it is missing the splash shield under the engine which may cause uneven wind pressure. I truly feel that something is very wrong, but do not know what.
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1999 F150 .... Been troubleshooting ac on my Dad's truck. Read the FAQ and after going through all the diagnostics on the ac (low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, ac clutch relay, coil resistance all OK) I found issue with the clutch gap. I removed the washer in the clutch and put everything back together and the clutch is engaging properly now ( the gap is around .020 now) and seems to be working ok. I borrowed a set of gauges from a friend and want to verify the low and high side readings to see if the charge is adequate. Getting about 48F air out of the vents with outside temps around 85F. What the low and high side pressures should be running at that outside temperature?
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L. It's been blowing warm air ever since I got it (about a year ago). After doing some research online, I bought a gauge (low side port only) and some R134a. After hooking up the gauge, I got a reading of about 100psi. I'm not very technically inclined about cars, what could be wrong?
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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When I bought a used camry 5 years ago and drove it on the highway, my front tire busted and damaged the fender cuz it had too much air!! I wonder if it shows high pressure on my 2010 gen III Prius v with ATP. I know that the tires are special on this v version but still I like to keep a slightly higher pressure in the front ones because the lane keep assist feature works better with higher tire pressure. Summer is coming up so that gets me worried what to do with tire pressures.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai Sonata that is giving me a "Low Tire Pressure" warning. I have checked the air pressure in all of the tires and I still get the error. How I can find the tire pressure that is giving me the error?
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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My Hundai Azera 2009, was blowing heat on both side of a "dual system" during the cold months. Now that its warm weather when I turn on the A/C it blows cold on driver side vents , but hot air on passenger side. What do I need to correct this.
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I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
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My TPMS light comes on about 75% of the time. (That's not the light for low pressure.) I took it in to the dealer once and they replaced the valve stem in one tire. It continued to come off and on intermittently. This time the dealer said they needed reprogrammed. It still continued. This time, they said there was no evidence of an error message while running diagnostics. They told me to just ignore it from now on.
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I have an 07 Hyundai Accent. Occasionally when I start it, it will bang into gear and will not shift into high gear. It is an automatic transmission. If I turn it off and restart a couple of times the problem will disappear. I occasionally get the check engine light with this problem but it goes out the same day. It has also occasionally been going down the highway and will shift out of OD and increase rpms. I can pull over and restart and the problem goes away.
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Three months ago I acquired a car from my brother. It was a 2001 hyundia accent gsi. The car had sat unused for 10 months and because of this I had to put some work into it. It has a new battery, new starter and new engine belts because one snapped upon start up the first times. I have also had the oil changed.
For some reason it is reving really high. At about 100km/hr it revs at about 4000rpm. I have talked to my brother and he said it did not do this before. It is changing gears because I can hear it and watch the rpm's drop before going back up. In 3rd gear at 60 km/hr it revs at about 2100 rpm's.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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After driving in heavy snow I noticed a cable hanging loose in a loop under the car in the mid section. What could this be ?
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1997 7.5, 5spd, s/d system. With my scanner hooked up driving @ wot the pcm goes into closed loop, you can actually feel the power loss. live data shows stft subtracting fuel and injector pulse dropping to 16.2 ms from 21ms.
From what I could understand is that it is some type of emissions strategy from the pcm, how to over ride it.
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My girlfriend's Elantra (mid 90s model, I think) makes an intermittent noise when on the highway. It sounds to me like it could either be from friction or some sort of wind noise, but I suspect it's the former. It only seems to happen at speeds above 50 or so. When it occurs, it is always the same pitch and loudness -- these don't seem to vary. It's rather loud, to the point where it is pretty unpleasant to drive when this is going on. It has happened both when my foot is on and off the gas pedal. When the noise happens, it can last anywhere from just a second to up to a minute or more. I haven't been able to identify anything obvious that it's correlated with -- wind direction, grade of road, etc. The only thing I do know is that it only seems to happen at highway speeds. We never hear it during city driving. So far one mechanic has confidently misdiagnosed the problem as a bad wheel bearing.
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Starting about a week ago whenever my car goes above about 2 thousand rpms I start hearing a faint high pitched whining sound, increasing to a more audible level as the rpms increase.. I've ruled out breaks and tires, which weer my initial thoughts, and I think it's something with a belt or the engine now. I have manual shift 2002 Hyundai Elantra.. The car still performs fine, but I have noticed a slight decrease in acceleration speed..
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2001 2.4 L AWD Manual Transmission.
Live data readings from vehicle continuously indicates "open loop- driving" for the Fuel System Status (Fuel System 1) . During idle and on open high way driving as 120 km for 10 minutes. I use an ELM327 diagnostic device with ScanMaster-EL 2.2 software.
After establishing this initially I disconnected the battery to do a complete ECU reset. I do not get error codes.
O2 Sensor1 Bank1 constantly reported as 1.275 V and sensor 2 as 0.02 V. I believe however the constant readings are as as a result of being in open loop.
No error codes reported.
The software report OBD1 ability on the diagnostic link.
During driving I got the following readings:
Fuel System 1: open loop-driving
Fuel System 2: not supported.
Calculated load: 6.27 to 83.14, avg 40.6
Fuel trims: 0
RPM: 1008 to 3988, avg 2407
Speed (km/h): 0 to 122, avg 77.66.
Timing Advance #1 degrees: 7 to 44 degrees, avg 22.42
Intake Air Temp (degrees C). 19 to 24
Air Flow Rate - (g/s): 3.18 to 69.27, avg 25.46
The software reports that the O2 Sensor bank 2 is not supported. I am not certain whether I should trust the software. In South Africa cats are not mandatory, hence is it possible explanation.
2) Is it possible to send a command on OBD to force closed loop?
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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2002 LE 2.4 A/T 85k miles. all maintenance up to date.
I got a CEL P0420 last night, car ran fine for 85 miles so I could get home. Hook scan tool up to look at sensor outputs, and found that the A/F ratio sensor is N/A. And that the car is never going into open loop. Coolant temp stays around 185 at 55 mph and will only hit 200 if I hold it at around 2500 RPM in neutral while stopped. Even on the highway it stays in closed loop.
I know about the P0420 catalyst code every Camry I have ever had eventually gets it. But could it be caused by staying in closed loop for extended periods of time? Should I replace the thermostat to try to get the engine temp up?
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