Hyundai - Excel :: 1993 - Oil Pan Gasket Leaking?
Mar 24, 2015
93 Hyundai Excel 1.5L, 130k miles. Oil pan gasket leaking like crazy, took pan off and cleaned everything up real nice in preparation for new gasket.
Looked in the bottom of pan and noticed this thing sitting in it (the sleeve looking thing, not the nickel) it isn't a magnet, and looking up into the bottom end of my engine I couldn't see anything that looked like it. Here's a pic: [URL] .....
The inside is smooth, no threads or anything. It is metal.
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Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
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My car is a 93 Hyundai Excel with the automatic transmission. The donor car was a 94 Excel with a manual transmission. This instrument cluster had the rare tach so that is why it was to go in mine. Everything I have read on the Hyundai forums said it is 100% plug and play regardless of year or transmission. The upgraded instrument cluster worked in the donor car, but in mine nothing works. Fuel gauge goes to full but that's about it (my tank is almost empty). What would cause this? I've checked the printed circuit board, fuses, everything.
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Car has 133k miles...everything on it is pretty much new (mainly from previous owner). Everything in the fuel system and ignition is new. New sensors all over the place. New ECM. All fluids clean. Earlier today I charged my A/C, it went well (blows ice cold)...sat for a while idling, idled fine. Drove around with the a/c on and noticed the transmission was shifting odd. It would keep upshifting and downshifting I think between 3rd and 4th gear. Also starting doing this with the air off as well. After running a few more errands, the transmission seemed like it wouldn't shift as early as it did previously.
Upon coming home the last time, upon acceleration I began hearing a slapping/tapping sound and the car started losing power. If I took my foot off the gas the sound went away. Well it almost died on me making the last turn into my driveway and I parked it. Shut it off, checked everything over. Oil and trans fluid is good as well as everything else, it didn't overheat or anything. It seems to idle a bit low now, and if I gave it any throttle while parked the unfamiliar sound returned.
I asked the previous owner and he said he might have put the wrong transmission fluid in when he did the fluid/filter change months ago. He says he used DEX or the "multi vehicle import" fluid instead of the ATF +4 that it requires. Coincidentally enough, I had just purchased several quarts today to start running the possibly wrong fluid out to get the right stuff in. What else I should check, hoping the engine isn't toast. Here's a video of the sound, you can really hear it when I move my phone over the exhaust manifold heat shield : [URL] .....
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My first car was a 1986 Hyundai Excel. I spent about as much time fixing it as driving it, but it taught me how to work on cars, which has saved me a lot of money over the years. It had some quirks. When I turned on the headlights, the idle would go up and down. When I looked at the carburetor, I could even see the throttle open and close. It had one of those complicated feedback carburetors that I don't really understand. My question is about the transmission. It was a five-speed, and the clutch never slipped. When I got the car, the speed limit was 55. At that speed the engine would be somewhere over 3,000 RPM (I forget exactly).
Then a couple of years later the speed limit went up to 70, and at that speed the engine ran at 4,000 RPM. The strange thing is that the engine speed was the same in 4th and 5th. I have a book about cars that I got years ago, and it mentions something called a "fifth gear" that isn't an overdrive but "acts like an overdrive." What this means, but it seems to be what my Hyundai had. I found no difference in engine speed or performance. If I had to downshift to 4th to climb a hill, I'd immediately have to downshift to 3rd, because 4th made no difference. What that fifth gear was for? I also wouldn't mind knowing why the throttle opened and closed when the lights were on.
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I am having problems with my 1994 hyundai excel 5spd man. trans...when i drive the car it seems fine but if i go up a hill it stumbles and loses power very quickly and cant make it up the hill. It feels like the motor starts jerking and stumbling but if i put it in reverse and reverse up the same hill it has tons of power and doesn't run rough.....the car hasn't been driven much in the last 6 months or so and the fuel gauge says 3/4 full...the motor also idles good but takes a long time to warm up (like 20 mins or so even when driving it around in 75-80F weather).
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My 2007 hyundai veracruz broke down 2 days ago--the 2 month old battery was dead due to the alternator failure. The shop diagnosed the origin of the problem as a leak at the valve cover gasket, which ruined the alternator, and thus disabled the battery. My car has approx. 70,000 miles on it.
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I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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Well I finally went and bought another Ranger. Pretty red 5spd 4WD long bed. I knew it didn't run when I got it (crazy leaky fuel line...stupid squirrels), and the owner was pretty sure it had a head gasket failure. He claimed it was blowing white smoke and using coolant. I hadn't been able to get it to run to verify that, but I can't see why he would lie about that.
I finally got the fuel line fixed today (FYI, don't waste your time or money buying those Dorman OEM connector patch kits at Advanced Auto). While we were cranking the truck, I noticed gas escaping the degas bottle the radiator was pressurized before the thermostat should be open. That to me says blown head gasket (crossing fingers it isn't a cracked head) for sure. I tried to get a picture of the dipstick, but in the light it definitely looks like peanut butter. I just wanted to make sure before the massive ordeal of pulling heads/top end work that will follow
Anyway, plan is to fix her up and get her back on the road! Some picture enjoyment .......
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What gasket is this on my 2002 cavalier the one behind the oil check thing ? its leaking
My car idled and died 3 time today ,and that gasket was leaking
52672b16-e04e-4439-8cbd-944eb5e99d89.jpg 44.66KB
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I have a 1994 Corolla, and it's at 107,000 miles now.Recently it stalled on the freeway, and I had to put in $600 to replace the distributor. That's what they told me that it needed at Firestone.They also told me that the gasket valve cap is leaking and that the sync belts are worn out and may stall it again any time soon. I don't currently have the $ to fix those two issues, so I only paid for the distributor.
I have no knowledge of automotive maintenance, and so can't verify that the information is correct.I noticed that the car shakes much more now, but it could be just my being more sensitive and paranoid.Today, I started driving to work, but noticed that when I am stopped at a red light, the break pedal sends a strange vibration occasionally.I don't know what could be causing this, but I decided not to risk it and just return home.I am now facing a dilemma. I can either go and repair the gasket valve cap and the sync belts for another $300 or so after I get the next paycheck, or I can look for a replacement car to buy. I am not sure I can afford even a used vehicle now.
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My car was just in the shop for the 30K service and the tech noticed quite a bit of oil leaking from the gasket between the CTS pcv system and the engine. He said that because the catch can lacks the ability to release the pressure coming from the engine, it started to eat at the gasket and it now leaks... he recommended that I take the catch can off. I thought the system vented pressure into the intake...
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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
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2002 Camry 4 Cylinder. 140 K miles
I am pretty sure the oil leak I spotted is from the oil pan gasket. (Interestingly I searched and didn't find many posts about this, that makes me wonder if this is not a typical issue.)
Is there anything that blocks removal? Does it just drop out after undoing the bolts?
Also can I get the felpro gasket? Do I need any sealant?
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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A year ago (to the day), my car (2006 Hyundai Sonata) died on me while I was driving it. My boyfriend came and gave me a jump. The car got home fine. The next morning, we went out to the car, and the battery had died, so we jumped the car again, and got to the battery place and bought a new battery. I was worried there was another issue with the car- but my boyfriend was all like "You are feeble woman who knows nothing about cars" (kidding, kidding) so I listened to him and drove the car off that afternoon. On my way home, car died again. So, this time, we got the car towed to a dealership to get checked out. Well, turns out the head gasket was leaking and there was oil in the alternator. SOOOO. The dealer replaced the head gasket for free because the car had a warranty on the engine, but we were SOL with the alternator. So, we bought an alternator from a friend, and had another friend install it for us.
Yesterday, I got out of work, and car wouldn't start. When my DF came to jump the car, he and I could clearly see the head gasket is leaking again and there is oil in the alternator. I have a couple questions that I need answered...
1.) What causes a leaky head gasket? My boyfriend said that either the engine block was warped or that the replacement they put in last year was faulty. Are there other ways?
2.) How the beep do you replace the alternator in the 2006 Hyundai? It is in an odd location and we don't have access to the person who did it for us last time, so I need to see if this is a job my boyfriend can do. He does work on his car all the time (an 87 BMW), but he's never done anything on this car besides change oil, etc.
A little bit about this car: We bought the car from a Hyundai dealer in June 2010. It belonged to one of the dealer investors, so it was in great condition. However, we think the car was in a front-end accident. When my boyfriend waxed the car awhile back, it was pretty obvious that the front bumper was replaced as well. The dealer refuses to give us any mechanical records about the car (will only give us verbal summary) ...
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My son-in-law came by tonight and showed me his ticket from his oil change at the dealer on his '08 Azera, 108k miles. Tech remarked that both valve cover gaskets AND the oil pan gasket were leaking. I've walked through his garage many times when my daughter has the car at work and I've never noticed any oil on the floor. Should have I seen any? I told dealer I would just drive it and monitor the oil level and any other signs of oil leakage. Since he bought the car with 101k miles and a fresh oil change ticket and never checked the level over the next 7k miles I don't think it's leaking bad.
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I took my 2007 Saturn Aura for a scheduled oil change. They did the change and than called me into the shop to show me an oil leak. I was told that the oil pan gasket is leaking oil onto the exhaust and I could have a fire if I didn't get it replaced. The thing is that my car has been parked in the same place on my driveway every day for 5 years and has never dripped a drop of oil on the concrete. The car has only 30,000 miles and has been well maintained. How likely is it that there is a real problem with the oil pan gasket?
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I have a 1998 Subaru Forester that is leaking oil through the head gasket. Repairs for the head gasket seem to be in high range, which is at or above the value of the car. Is trying any of the head gasket sealant products such as Blue Devil worth trying? Do they have the potential to do more damage than good? I love the car, but I'm also not sure if it is worth getting if fixed or if I should be looking to sell it for parts and buy a different used car.
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I brought my 2002 F150 into the shop because of a small oil leak. I thought it was coming from a leak in the gasket of the oil pan which the shop confirmed. I changed the oil and put in the Lucas oil product that can seal leaks in gaskets (sometimes). This didn't work. I continue to have a small oil drip, more annoying than anything. I am not having to add oil continuously.
To change the gasket the shop basically quoted me $1,200 because on this engine size you have to drop the engine etc.
I am looking for alternative solutions, recommendations, etc. I can live with the leak but would prefer to fix.
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1993 Celica GTS 2.2L N/a DOHC 5spd (S53 Trans)
My transmission is leaking. pretty badly apparently. I didn't think it was too bad, till it ran dry on me. Luckily I was about a mile from home, and most of it was downhill. so I limped it home where it sits now. I've ordered new seals for input, output, CVs, and shift shaft... am I missing anything? I also ordered a clutch kit, so if it's close to needing a clutch, it will get one, but it needed a throw out bearing, so I just went ahead and bought the kit (cause that made the bearing essentially free with the purchase of the clutch and pressure plates).
I have reason to believe that at least part of the leakage is at the input shaft, because my clutch seems perpetually dirty.
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