Hyundai - Elantra :: Overheated Engine Blows Head Gasket
Jun 29, 2011
I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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I have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
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My 1994 Acura Integra with 243k original miles on it apparently blew a head gasket a couple of weeks ago, overheated, and ended up at the mechanic's shop with the head removed. He had it pressure tested, and they found a crack in the head's coolant jacket. So, it's toast. Wanting to keep the car (it's in great shape otherwise), I was presented with two choices.
Replace the head Replace the engine.
My question: What do I need to make sure the mechanic does or checks out on the new-to-me engine, to be sure I can get another 100,00+ miles out if it? It comes with NO warranty, and there are no records of how it was maintained or driven by its original owner(s). It's basically been "preserved" (how?) and sitting on a pallet in New Jersey for the past 16-ish years.
He says he's had good luck with them in the past, but has not done very many. He also claims that it will be an exact match, for smog / registration purposes, or he "will send it back" (his words). But I'm still nervous. Have I made the right choice?
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Our 05 Elantra (170k miles) is leaking coolant externally from the head gasket. At first I thought it was coming from the freeze plugs, but it's actually leaking from above. I'm mechanically inclined but have no experience with head gaskets. I have access to Alldata but no service manual. Will it tell me everything I need to know? The farthest I've gone inside an engine is removing valve covers car runs great and we like it enough to want to keep it for a while ... I'll also mention I will be replacing the timing belt as well.
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I just bought a used 5.4 for my 99' F150 4X4. My current engine has a blown head gasket. Anyway, I was able to hear the engine run before I bought it, and was able to check it out some. (oil, anti-freeze) I was told that this engine was bought from a salvage yard with 50K, and 50K more put on it before I bought it.
I was also told that the intake manifold is newer, from Autozone, and it has newer Accell coils. My question for you all, is ..... What do YOU think I should do otherwise before I install this engine. Oil pump? water pump? seals? ...
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I bought this Subaru outback with 100,000 miles- clean car fax, etc, did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat at 102,000. Now at 116,000, the head gasket is leaking ($2,200 estimate) so the repair shop is working on that and they called today to say the #2 cylinder is scored and the engine needs to be rebuilt. ($4,000 estimate). I'm not sure if I should have them proceed with he work- that's a bunch of money or look for another engine, or what to do !! Its a great little car- but geez- what to do-
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I have 2006 Nissan Maxima SE with the 3.5 engine. I have used regular gas for the entire 88K miles. Lately the engine knocks (diesel like). I asked my guy what to do. He said a nitrogen fuel injector cleaning.... Did that. No change. When I use premium it stops. However, I suspect something more is wrong. In fact, I suspect a head gasket issue. How can I diagnose without going to the garage? If it is the head gasket, am I doomed (cost a fortune to fix).
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic with 140k miles. It has a leaking head gasket which is causing the engine to overheat when driving slower without airflow to cool the engine.
I would love to drive the car to 200k+ miles but if this is the first of many pricey fixes I want to cut my losses.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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I have the 2.4l engine and the car has 177K on it. Bought it from a friend at 60K and never had a problem with it. I started getting the coolant puddle from the rear of the engine. We took the intake manifold off and saw that the head was leaking in the rear. Real small drop forming and then falling. No codes at the time either. Seems this car has problems with the Engine bolts and was wondering how many people out there had a blown head gasket and there was no bolt issue?
Also I know this is not the right thing to do but use Engine Block Sealant? This is the kind that you drain your antifreeze,flush twice and then run this stuff in it for little while and then replace with antifreeze.
I am upside down on the car because I put 50K a year on so don't think I will get anything for trade. I am hoping my brother in law and I can fix it but am wondering what the odds are there is a problem with the bolts.
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Mileage 192k. Signs...stumbling/rough engine startup for first time of the day and anytime the engine sits for a few minutes before turning on again (battery charging/speed high enough for engine to start, etc).
2010 Prius engine start stumble - YouTube
Started out with no code, then check engine light started coming on. P0301, misfire cylinder #1. Sparkplugs were replaced, and coil pack for #1 switched with known good one. EGR tube also cleaned of carbon.
Stumbling/roughness has been getting worse, about an inch of coolant used per week of driving. No oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil (no milkshake or anything like that).
Dirty fuel injectors were suspected, but no improvement after using Techron. Finally, a boroscope was used to inspect the cylinders through the sparkplug holes, and a very slow leak was found in cylinder #1. Since liquid cannot be compressed, during the compression cycle significant misfiring occurs.
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My car blew a head gasket in the fall. A friend replaced it and rebuilt the head. The head was taken to a machine shop, was not warped but was planed just a little. The engine was put back together but it continues to gunk up the radiator with yellow gunk. We put block sealer in and it today there is gunk in the over flow bottle again. This is a 1998 Honda Accord with only 103,000 miles on it when the gasket blew.
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Traveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
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Is this normal or do I have a leak? Noticed this white stuff just like what you would find on the coolant cap, as well as this red stuff too.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and the previous owner called it "quirky". She said to turn the AC or heat off you have to have the setting on 4 not 0 and a few other things. She forgot to mention sometimes it just won't start. Last night when I went to drive to get some take out the car just would not start. The radio and lights turn on but the engine wouldn't start. There was no noise of the engine even trying to start. I made sure the car was in park and now I'm just confused. I called the previous owner (my boyfriend's sister) and she said when that happen she would make sure the lights, radio, and AC were turned off and jam the car into park. I tried all of this and it didn't work so I called her again and she said sometimes you just "need to wait it out"....this morning I tried the car again and it turned on with no problem but I am paranoid it will happen again on the road trip I have planned for this weekend.
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I drove my car after the check engine light came on, stupidly without looking at the temperature gauge. When the car died, I had blown the head gasket, melted the spark plugs and did some other pretty serious damage to the engine. So now I am contemplating replacing the engine instead of buying a new car since I drive very infrequently (I take transit to work and do a lot of business travel by air). The car is 10 years old and only has 72,000 miles on it. The body is in good shape as well.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
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My Subaru dealer just told me that my 2004 outback with 88k miles has developed a head gasket leak. I haven't noticed any symptoms, and the leak started sometime between now and my last major service 10k miles ago. How serious is this? They want to charge me for it? If so, when? Is disaster imminent?
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I have a 1998 volvo s70 with 273k on it. I am pretty sure the head gasket is blown. The shop I usually take my car to said i need to take it to a dealer and that volvo usually wants to replace the engine on a car that old. Would you pay the 6k for a new engine or think about a new car?
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I just recently had problems with my V6 accord, is been overheating, I just know that is the head gasket because it has all symptoms, creamy appearance in engine oil cap. vapor and the end pipes after hours of running and multiple misfire, no thermostat and still overheating with no leakages.
I add a block sealer and now the car is working fine (Block Seal, Head Gasket Repair, Bar's Leaks brand).
I would like to replace the head gasket in my V6, but I was told that I need to the surface finish to flat the head and in the lower part too (block), is this correct?
I know that this must be done in the upper part (head) but never heard that this must be done also in the lower part (block).
I have a 2007 accord V6 Engine 4 door sedan SE.
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A friend was driving my 2003 Elantra XD GT and he said the car overheated - CEL came on and then he pulled over. When he tried to restart it would nearly start but was undrivable. I put the handy - dandy bluetooth reader and android software in my android phone and it's giving me:
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Also I've had this car for only about 16 months - did notice a bunch of clay buildup from 'stop leak' side the radiator. What I need to get it running again? I'm thinking:
theromastat & gasket
spark plugs
fuel filter
Here are the details on the error codes:
P0117 Hyundai - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
Possible causes
- Low engine coolant level
- Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
- Faulty engine coolant thermostat
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: P0117 Hyundai Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code
P0302 Hyundai - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug 2
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector 2
- Faulty ignition coil 2
- Fuel injector 2 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinder 2 compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Intake air leak
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