Hyundai - Elantra :: Jerking At Random While Shifting
Oct 10, 2014
My alternator recently died and I took my car to a shop to have it replaced. Since receiving the car back, I've noticed that the car seems to jerk at random while shifting. It seems to happen most when shifting from 1st to 2nd. This problem didn't exist before I had my car maintained. Any chance this is related to the work done and is something easily fixed or is it just coincidental timing?
It's a 2004 Hyundai Elantra, at 120k miles,,,
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I've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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My 2003 Hyundai Elantra makes this creaking noise when I come to a stop. It seems to make it when the weight is shifting back from a stop. It's not a brake noise. I've checked my brakes and they're fine. It's not even close to a brake noise. I was thinking it was the shocks or springs since it only does it after I've stopped. It makes this noise also while I am stopped and if I shake the car a little. Not too sure what this noise could be. I'm also hearing a new noise in the front. It a loud squeaking type noise that only happens it seems when I am stopping going down a hill or on hard turns. It gets very loud and I kind of feel a grinding in the pedal when it happens.
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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I have a 2007 Manual drive Hyundai Elantra with 98,000 miles on it. Prior to going to Valvoline (who I know are not the best oil change places) if I was parked with foot on clutch and brake there was a tinny noise coming from the engine. I was going to have it checked out.
Fast forward I had my oil changed at Valvoline on Saturday (2 days ago) since then when parked with foot on clutch and brake the car begins to make a stuttering/shuttering noise and is shaking a bit (in time). In addition when I shift gears and go faster there is a wheezing noise.
I assume I need to bring this back to Valvoline? Is there anything that they could have done during the oil change that would cause this issue?I didn't get the air filter but it wasn't that horrible. They of course said I should get the radiator flush and the transmission flush.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
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My car is jerking from 2-3...whether in auto or in tip.
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When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
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It's only in manual with about 30-50% throttle shifting around 3K RPM and only from 1st-2nd-3rd, after that it's fine.
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My car is less than 2 months old and randomly in low gears the car will jerk or lurch when shifting gears. Is this common or does this need to be looked at?
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I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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I have a 2005 Passat GLS TDI. Recently it has started jerking when shifting and hesitating when taking off from a stop. I guess it's not quite a hesitation but I press the gas and it takes a few seconds to kick in and go. The check engine light came on and I read the codes with a code reader.
The codes I got were P0674-Glow plug/heater cylinder 4 and P0741 Torque converter CKT performance or stuck off. Now The car started hard in the winter when it was really cold so I am assuming the one code means we have a bad glow plug.
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I have a 2005 Passat GLS TDI. Recently it has started jerking when shifting and hesitating when taking off from a stop. I guess it's not quite a hesitation but I press the gas and it takes a few seconds to kick in and go. The check engine light came on and I read the codes with a code reader. The codes I got were P0674-Glow plug/heater cylinder 4 and P0741 Torque converter CKT performance or stuck off. Now The car started hard in the winter when it was really cold so I am assuming the one code means we have a bad glow plug. Any tips where to start, what this could be, and how much each thing could cost me to fix?
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I am having issues with a 2006 Gen II Prius that just approached 120K miles. When going down a hill at approx. 35-40mph, the engine jerks when downshifting or when coasting.
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I recently replace my catalytic converter with a MagnaFlow direct fit, thinking it may have been clogged. This did not solve my problem. The car only jerks after it has been driven more than 30 minutes. It usually starts jerking once I get back into town (stop and go traffic). I have replace a handful of sensors. I plan on replacing the transmission control solenoid. How many do I need? Where is the TCS located?
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. 98k mi.
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My car is a 99 honda accord v6 EX (coupe)It started overheating about 2-3months ago. I was driving along and the needle on the gauge was completely on hot. I was able to make it home. Ive basically been driving it this whole time with the defrost on 80 and on full blast. Which keeps it around the halfway mark between hot and cold. I had a friend change my thermostat .. didn't fix it. Still overheats. But after he did that it seems to get hotter faster now. When I am at a stoplight it gets as hot as the gauge will let it go, then when I start driving again it cools down a little.
Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
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My 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
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I have a 2005 F150 S Crew and have been maintaining it regularly. I started having a jerking while accelerating lightly or in between shifting then the overdrive light comes on and then flashes trans fault on dash. I took it to the local tranny shop who fixed the problem however about a year later it started doing it again. What the problem could be before I have to spend another bucks?
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I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
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